Buying Used Tanks

[JD Smith]

New to diving with much inquiry. I attempted to look over the posts here before posting, but I could not find a good answer to my questions. So, here we go:
I have been looking at getting at least one, if not two tanks to have on hand. Well, I have no problems buying used provided I know what I am looking for. Sadly, right now this in not the case. But we all had to start at a beginner level. There are many used items on the auction sites and crookslist pages, but how do I know for sure I am getting a tank that will pass inspection and be able to be used to dive? I'd hate to buy a tank only find out that I just bought paper weight.

1) What things should I be looking for and what I should I be looking to avoid? I'll mostly be diving fresh water so I think I'll be wanting to stick with steel. (I already experienced a slightly annoying/scary moment while getting certified using an aluminum tank where as my air was being used up I could no longer stay down. Scared the crap out of my dive buddy because she could not find me and they were down about 45 feet. I was stuck bobbing on the surface with no way to descend. And I was already wearing 33 pounds of weight before I went into the water).
2) Paint ball used to be a big thing in my area. I see used tanks all the time where the user states it either has been used for paint ball or is set up to be used for paint ball. Are these tanks good for SCUBA with the proper valves attached from the LDS?
3) Does age of a tank REALLY matter in the long run if they are properly inspected and certified?
4) What would be a realistic price to pay for a used tank of both aluminum and steel? They sure are expensive buying new. Should either material hold their resale value any better than the other?
5) If I go to look at a tank (or view photos) what exactly would I want to be looking for (or to avoid) before handing over cash? Or questions I should ask the seller.

I just thought if I could get my hands on a tank or two I could have them on hand and ready to go on a moments' notice since my schedule is so hard to predict meeting up with people to dive with.

Thanks in advance,
JD

 

[tbone1004]

1) that was a weighting issue and nothing about aluminum in particular. You were underweighted, and it could actually have been worse with a steel tank as the buoyancy change is often larger since steel tanks often have larger capacities. 33lbs is too much lead unless you are REALLY floaty. I don't think I've ever seen a drysuit diver needing that much lead...

In terms of what to look for.
You want aluminum tanks newer than 1990. Some luxfers before 1989 were made with an unsafe alloy and many dive shops have a flat out rule of not filling pre 1990 aluminum tanks
With LP72's, you want to make sure they have "normal" valves instead of NPT valves, and want to make sure it is unlined. Second one is a bit difficult to do. When you buy, if you are unfamiliar with the seller, pay with paypal and have the sale contingent on the tank passing vip and hydro. Other than that, not much you can do.

2) paintball tanks will not have valves that are compatible with scuba tanks readily available. Many paintballers used scuba tanks though for transfilling so you may find some of those.

3) see above. I will not buy aluminum tanks older than 1990, but I have some steels from the 60's and they are perfectly fine.

4) aluminum is $100 in VIP and Hydro, $50 out. Steel 72's are about the same, the newer steels can be about $200 each.

5) see above, but get all of the markings off the tank and post on here if you have questions

 

[JD Smith]

1) that was a weighting issue and nothing about aluminum in particular. You were underweighted, and it could actually have been worse with a steel tank as the buoyancy change is often larger since steel tanks often have larger capacities. 33lbs is too much lead unless you are REALLY floaty. I don't think I've ever seen a drysuit diver needing that much lead...

I sort assumed that my weight was off. But I was pretty frustrated that I could not descend again. I was wearing a 7 mil full wet suit. I seemed to have no problem getting down at first but about 3/4 through my air it was almost as if I ditched some weight. I literally could not manage to get underwater at all. I really need to practice my buoyancy control.

And thank you for the tank knowledge. I appreciate it.

 

[DMDavid]

I personally would steer clear of used tanks unless someone is desperate to sell a fairly new one at a very reduced cost to you the buyer.
The cost of a 80cf aluminum tank is approximately $150 for a new one with hydro and VIP, the average cost of a used one is between $80 to $125 and that's not much savings.
Remember that your used tank may need a hydro soon unless it just had one and it may also be on its 3rd or 4th hydro already.
Long story short, buy it new for the extra $50 you'll have a tank that will last you much longer than buying someones old equipment.
Many LDS will allow lay-away if you can't afford it all at once and that way you can pick up a new tank every few months. I buy mine from Divers-Supply here in Jacksonville by paying as I can afford them and that has allowed me to completely replace my aging supply of tanks which total 10.

Something to think about.

 

[JD Smith]

2) paintball tanks will not have valves that are compatible with scuba tanks readily available. Many paintballers used scuba tanks though for transfilling so you may find some of those.

So, can you still look for deals on former paintball tanks knowing you will have to have the valves replaced? Or is this extra cost just something to steer away from?

 

[JD Smith]

I personally would steer clear of used tanks unless someone is desperate to sell a fairly new one at a very reduced cost to you the buyer.
The cost of a 80cf aluminum tank is approximately $150 for a new one with hydro and VIP, the average cost of a used one is between $80 to $125 and that's not much savings.
Remember that your used tank may need a hydro soon unless it just had one and it may also be on its 3rd or 4th hydro already.
Long story short, buy it new for the extra $50 you'll have a tank that will last you much longer than buying someones old equipment.
Many LDS will allow lay-away if you can't afford it all at once and that way you can pick up a new tank every few months. I buy mine from Divers-Supply here in Jacksonville by paying as I can afford them and that has allowed me to completely replace my aging supply of tanks which total 10.

Something to think about.

I see... not much of a price difference when your life depends on your gear.

 

[tbone1004]

So, can you still look for deals on former paintball tanks knowing you will have to have the valves replaced? Or is this extra cost just something to steer away from?

if they are scuba tanks, they should have scuba valves on them. If they aren't, then it's not practical.

This is a good deal I would buy with no concern. I don't like buying single tanks, but that's a good deal. It looks like a 120 which is a long tank, so if you're under 6' tall I'd probably pass
Faber high pressure scuba tank 3442 psi

This is a good deal as well. The 3500psi tanks are DIN only, but it apparently also comes with a regulator, so that's ideal. The 120 may be too long for you depending on how tall you are
High Pressure Scuba Tanks

This is on the high end of what I'd pay for an AL80, but I'd have no problem recommending that
Scuba Dive Tank 80 3000 Alum. Hydro 11-16

steel 72. Needs hydro more than likely, but not a bad deal for that. I love LP72's
Scuba tank

 

[DMDavid]

I see... not much of a price difference when your life depends on your gear.

Take the paintball tank as an example: Used paintball tank may cost you $50 on Craigslist then you'll need a valve which will cost you around $30-50 and a VIP and possibly also a Hydro which will be anywhere from $35 - $75 depending on where you live. So your total cost of buying a used tank comes out to approximately $150 after all things considered and you could have just bought a new one from one of the online retailers for the same amount or there abouts.

Divers-Supply 80cf Aluminum tank $145

 

[shurite7]

1. See tbone's comments. Definitely nothing to do with AL or ST.
2. The paint-ballers around here use scuba tanks with the yoke valve which isn't an issue for scuba divers.
3. Age matters if is carbon wrapped, such as XS Scuba's 104cft tank. It has a 15 year shelf life. See tbone's comments on ALs. Age isn't too much of issue for steels.
4. This will depend on the region and what is available for used tanks. I've seen used AL tanks go for $25 a piece all the way up to $175 a piece. If the tank is out of hydro then the price should be much less than one that is in hydro, viz, recently filled and has a good valve.
5. If at all possible take a look inside the tank. A steel tank with water in it is not a good sign.

Also, take a look at the valve. Is it in good condition or is it old, or possibly a J-valve.

Good luck.

 

[JD Smith]

if they are scuba tanks, they should have scuba valves on them. If they aren't, then it's not practical.

This is a good deal I would buy with no concern. I don't like buying single tanks, but that's a good deal. It looks like a 120 which is a long tank, so if you're under 6' tall I'd probably pass
Faber high pressure scuba tank 3442 psi

This is a good deal as well. The 3500psi tanks are DIN only, but it apparently also comes with a regulator, so that's ideal. The 120 may be too long for you depending on how tall you are
High Pressure Scuba Tanks

This is on the high end of what I'd pay for an AL80, but I'd have no problem recommending that
Scuba Dive Tank 80 3000 Alum. Hydro 11-16

steel 72. Needs hydro more than likely, but not a bad deal for that. I love LP72's
Scuba tank

FYI... I am 5'11". So right at that height threshold you mentioned above.