That Faber tank isn't one I hear about.
Personally I'd go with a full rated 100 CF and not worry about it geting derated.
There are a lot of thoughts about the whole wet filling process and what can go wrong. My take is that if done carefully it won't cause a problem but it is also of little value. The thought of cooling the tank is a nice one however the need is to cool the gas within the tanks and that heat transfer equation isn't helped that much by cooling the cylinder.
FWIW my shop connects and disconnects my cylinders outside of the water bath. He runs yoke fill whips and I always bring my cylinders in with my inserts installed.
Pete
Personally I'd go with a full rated 100 CF and not worry about it geting derated.
There are a lot of thoughts about the whole wet filling process and what can go wrong. My take is that if done carefully it won't cause a problem but it is also of little value. The thought of cooling the tank is a nice one however the need is to cool the gas within the tanks and that heat transfer equation isn't helped that much by cooling the cylinder.
FWIW my shop connects and disconnects my cylinders outside of the water bath. He runs yoke fill whips and I always bring my cylinders in with my inserts installed.
Pete
Bob01:The tanks I was talking about in my last post
LDS - Worthington 100 CF 3442PSI
DiversDirect - PST 100 CF 3442PSI
TechDivingLimited - Faber 100 CF 3180 psi (3498 with the +10%)
http://66.225.239.89/~scuba/tdl/nst...id=653&zenid=ec50415ad9dae6ba04f22a9850fa8668
It sounds like that +10% thing sounds like it might not be worth the bother?
As for the greater risk of getting water in the tank from a wet fill with a DIN, I remember reading somewhere that with the physical shape of the DIN connector it allows it to hold water (in the event some water splashes up to the DIN from the water tank) - when the filler connects the whip & fills, it then forces that water into the tank.