Buying HP Steel Tanks - New vs. Used/Old

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That Faber tank isn't one I hear about.

Personally I'd go with a full rated 100 CF and not worry about it geting derated.

There are a lot of thoughts about the whole wet filling process and what can go wrong. My take is that if done carefully it won't cause a problem but it is also of little value. The thought of cooling the tank is a nice one however the need is to cool the gas within the tanks and that heat transfer equation isn't helped that much by cooling the cylinder.

FWIW my shop connects and disconnects my cylinders outside of the water bath. He runs yoke fill whips and I always bring my cylinders in with my inserts installed.

Pete

Bob01:
The tanks I was talking about in my last post

LDS - Worthington 100 CF 3442PSI
DiversDirect - PST 100 CF 3442PSI
TechDivingLimited - Faber 100 CF 3180 psi (3498 with the +10%)
http://66.225.239.89/~scuba/tdl/nst...id=653&zenid=ec50415ad9dae6ba04f22a9850fa8668

It sounds like that +10% thing sounds like it might not be worth the bother?

As for the greater risk of getting water in the tank from a wet fill with a DIN, I remember reading somewhere that with the physical shape of the DIN connector it allows it to hold water (in the event some water splashes up to the DIN from the water tank) - when the filler connects the whip & fills, it then forces that water into the tank.
 
Thanks for your input.

I think I will skip that whole +10 thing...
Assuming that a used HP 100cf tank is in good condition, what would you consider to be the average price for it to be worth the bother? (lets assume its within hydro and a VIP will be $17)
 
I had one of the Faber 3180 HP 80's. The "+" is no big deal once you do a little research on it and understand what it means. You sometimes get a lot of shop monkeys who are a little informationally-challenged and need edification on steel tank filling.
 
If you are buying steels, then you have a choice between a tank which has the "whole +10 thing" but is made to a DOT specification which will never expire, and a tank which is made to a manufacturer's exemption, which may someday expire or be revoked - see the whole tedious "condemning" thread for detail. So the choice is not as simple as it seems.

Personally I would be happier with the former, though it would not be a major factor for me in deciding what tank to buy.

Bob01:
I think I will skip that whole +10 thing...
 
I am trying to decide which tank to buy. I think I prefer an LP over the new HP tanks, as I think LP is much safer than HP, but I am not sure if I should stick with PST LP, or try Worthington.

I have no experience with Worthington tanks, but from what I have seen, they look a lot like the Faber white ones, so my concern is both from a corrosion (under the paint), and brand unfamiliarity.

Is Worthington/XS/Sea Pearls now making Hot dipped Galv tanks, like the PST's?

Also, Do they make LP tanks, and has anyone on SB used their tanks?
Divers Discount sells XS for a lot cheaper than PST tanks.

Regarding the new HP tanks:
Frankly, I have a concern with the new HP tanks. If an LP 85/80 will give you roughly 85/80 cu ft of air at 2640 psi, it seems a lot safer. The new HP tanks can be also used as LP, but now, the only way to get 80 cu ft is to pump it up to 3442 psi., which is higher than the old tanks were. Using it as an LP gets about 66 cu ft, which I think is crazy. You actually need to get an HP 100 to be able to use it as an LP 80, and an HP 120 to use as an LP 96. I think this has added a lot more confusion.

Most Dive shops can't even get a 3442 psi fill, so you will most likely be underfilled everywhere you go. The only way to use the new tanks safely, is to get a larger capacity tank, which is heavier, and costs more, and fill at a lower pressure.

Rick
 
I wouldn't consider buying a HP 80 for two reasons....one I'm not 5' tall and...and two for the reason you just stated. You get a hot fill and you might get 70 cuft. Ill stick with my HP 120s. If I get a short fill I still have 100 cuft of air.
 
My GF (5.3) is using 130CF. She doesn't have any issues with 130cf tank except it holds a darn much air to spend in underwater.:05: She has a good SAC rate....



hex92:
I wouldn't consider buying a HP 80 for two reasons....one I'm not 5' tall and...and two for the reason you just stated. You get a hot fill and you might get 70 cuft. Ill stick with my HP 120s. If I get a short fill I still have 100 cuft of air.
 
5'3" using a 130? She might want to apply to the US Navy for a hull number since she can stay down for so long. If she ever twins them, she can upgrade herself to carry fleet ballistic missiles.
 
Oh~~~Tom,

It sounds like I have driven her to the wall. LOL~~
She really doesn't feel any burdens at all in underwater. And, she is always so comfortable in underwater. I have several AL tanks though. That's her choice.
I might date with a mermaid...:05:




Tom Winters:
5'3" using a 130? She might want to apply to the US Navy for a hull number since she can stay down for so long. If she ever twins them, she can upgrade herself to carry fleet ballistic missiles.
 
I actually bought a Worthington (XS Scuba) Galvanized LP 85 from www.diversdiscount.com
today. It was listed for $169.00 with a pro din/yoke valve and a tank boot. I thought that was a decent deal. The tank by itself was only $102.00.

I was looking into an HP 100 that was suggested on another thread, but at $319.00 I think I will be fine with the LP, and not have to deal with getting MID fill of 86 cu ft on an HP tank, as my LDS said they could never fill to 3442 psi.

Thanks for the input,

Rick
 

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