Burst disk blew at 3000psi at 160ft :(

[kdupreez]

I have a problem... my DiveRite manifold blew a burst disk at 3000psi at 160ft - besides scaring the living daylights out of me and having to abort the dive with emergency procedures, I cant seem to replace the disk

now turns out, whoever the nut job was that put the stuff together at diverite, waaaaayyy over tightned the burst disk assembly and the burst disk plug literaly cut into the disk itself, damaging it.. so it was just a matter of time before it all tore up.. in fact both the valves had the burst disk assemblies that tight, cutting into the disk itself..

PLUS now the damn copper washer thats part of the assembly, (its sits underneath the disk) was to tightened down that it almost fused to the valve and I cant get the damn thing out to replace it.. i tried everything from picks (those denstist kinds) to gently prying to ultrasonic cleaning it for 1 hour... zero luck

SO - my question is.. how on earth to I remove the copper washer so i can replace the burst disk..

or is this factory snafu going to cost me a new valve?

thanks!

Koos

 

[Randy43068]

Were I you, I'd be talking to DR about this.

I have a problem... my DiveRite manifold blew a burst disk at 3000psi at 160ft - besides scaring the living daylights out of me and having to abort the dive with emergency procedures, I cant seem to replace the disk

now turns out, whoever the nut job was that put the stuff together at diverite, waaaaayyy over tightned the burst disk assembly and the burst disk plug literaly cut into the disk itself, damaging it.. so it was just a matter of time before it all tore up.. in fact both the valves had the burst disk assemblies that tight, cutting into the disk itself..

PLUS now the damn copper washer thats part of the assembly, (its sits underneath the disk) was to tightened down that it almost fused to the valve and I cant get the damn thing out to replace it.. i tried everything from picks (those denstist kinds) to gently prying to ultrasonic cleaning it for 1 hour... zero luck

SO - my question is.. how on earth to I remove the copper washer so i can replace the burst disk..

or is this factory snafu going to cost me a new valve?

thanks!

Koos

 

[contender]

Let me start by saying that Dive Rite gets these from the factory, pre-assembled, they don't put them together(i.e. there are no nut jobs there that do it, maybe at the factory). Now after being a down right Ahole in your post, do you really expect Dive Rite to be all nice and peachy and help you out. They will honor the warranty, and do the right thing, maybe you should use a little tact, and give them a call and they will fix it. Bashing them for something that is beyond their control is a bit ridiculous.

I have a problem... my DiveRite manifold blew a burst disk at 3000psi at 160ft - besides scaring the living daylights out of me and having to abort the dive with emergency procedures, I cant seem to replace the disk

now turns out, whoever the nut job was that put the stuff together at diverite, waaaaayyy over tightned the burst disk assembly and the burst disk plug literaly cut into the disk itself, damaging it.. so it was just a matter of time before it all tore up.. in fact both the valves had the burst disk assemblies that tight, cutting into the disk itself..

PLUS now the damn copper washer thats part of the assembly, (its sits underneath the disk) was to tightened down that it almost fused to the valve and I cant get the damn thing out to replace it.. i tried everything from picks (those denstist kinds) to gently prying to ultrasonic cleaning it for 1 hour... zero luck

SO - my question is.. how on earth to I remove the copper washer so i can replace the burst disk..

or is this factory snafu going to cost me a new valve?

thanks!

Koos

 

[RonFrank]

Heh, saying it is beyond DiveRites control that their product was assembled incorrectly is like suggesting that since God made the world, it's really just God, and not the people in it screwing it up!

I agree a little more tact would be a good idea, and I also agree you need to discuss this with DiveRite.

 

[contender]

Heh, saying it is beyond DiveRites control that their product was assembled incorrectly is like suggesting that since God made the world, it's really just God, and not the people in it screwing it up!

I agree a little more tact would be a good idea, and I also agree you need to discuss this with DiveRite.

I agree, but people need to use common sense.

 

[SDAnderson]

You sound very hacked off and, apparently, haven't talked to DR or a local tech about how to resolve your problem so I'm surprised that you're willing to put hours into repairing the valve.

Using a dental pick is a good way to destroy the valve. If you aren't careful, you'll gouge the valve and the burst disk will have to be overtightened to get it to seal. This may have been what got you to where you are in the first place.

Try blowing the washer out. A good blast of HP air up the dip tube will often dislodge it. If that doesn't work, a good soak in a mild acid bath often helps, even WD40 sometimes works. You'll have to clean the valve but that's not a problem for somebody with an ultrasonic cleaner.

Or you could just buy a Thermo manifold.

 

[kdupreez]

contender - thanks for the troll-post - no response...

thanks for the hints on the HP air up the dip tube reefraff, I tried that after the ultrasonic cleaning, but its seriously fused into the valve i had a couple of tech buddies look at it and the consensus was as i explained, the force in assembling the burst disk as excessive.. I'll take it to my LDS and get some feedback from the equipment servicing tech staff.

DiveRite equipment is all I dive and I love all of it - might also give them a call in the morning for some ideas..

I service all my own gear, so once this "never seen before" issue popped up, I thought I'd throw it out on the forums and maybe someone else has had a similar situation..

thanks for the tips so far guys..

cheers.

 

[Tigerman]

Calling the guys who made/provided the item is FORTH on your list of things to do after putting it on a forum, asking buddies and go to the LDS?
Thats what I call a priority error..
Fair enough its in this section of the forum, but I wouldnt rely on forum comminication for something I want to be dealt with within a reasonable timeframe..

 

[kdupreez]

yeah - my LDS with experienced diverite technicians and tech buddies is within 15 minutes driving distance and can physically examine the issue at hand.. diverite sits in florida and a phone call and probably shipping would be involved from seattle to florida.. making it at least a week to have an answer from them..

I can also just leave it at my LDS and let them deal with the issue.

so i guess im following the path of least resistance

 

[DA Aquamaster]

A couple thoughts...

Talk to Dive Rite - you should have done that first. Warrenty may not be an option at this point.

If not, take it to a tech. If that is not an option, then consider the following:

There are two styles of burst disc assembly. The traditional style uses a copper disc with a plastic washer and then the plug. The newer style uses a single assembly where the burst disc (usally chrome plated) is held against the plug by a copper cup with a larger hole in the center that is pressed over the end of the plug.

It is important to know what you have and to know that regardless of what you have, you cannot have a copper washer that was under the burst disc.

For the side that was not blown, removing it is most likely not going to be problem. Just point the burst disc in a safe direction with the plug removed and slowly fill the tank (you can isolate the other side). At some reasonably low pressure the burst disc should come shooting out (ie. the reason for the safe direction part.) That approach has an obvious hazard, but eliminates the need for any tools. Now... if you have already went to extreme lenghts to try to remove that one, Elvis may have left the building, so to speak, regarding that option as the burst disc may well depart and leave the copper cup in place if they are no longer bonded together.

The other side with the hole in the disc is more of a problem, but if the "copper washer" you think you have is probably the remains of the cup on the end of the plug. If so, then it will have a raised edge about 3/32" deep all the way around it and you should be able to carefully get an edge loose and remove it.

As noted above, you have to be very careful as a stainless steel pick is much harder than the brass in the valve and you can scratch the mating surfaces and make it very hard to get a new assembly to properly seal.