Buoyancy

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I agree, I think it's great you're asking advice. I would like to concur with Esprise Me, you do only have 7 dives and for a lot of people (even though they won't admit it) it's a few...50 more maybe. I also dove with a new couple with about 30 dives both tall and athletic build like yourself. They had to use the 100 tanks versus the 80s to stay down with us. But the second dive trip I did with them...so much better because they were diving more. If you want more time that is an option, however...this will affect your buoyancy again so you made need to try it first if possible.

New divers typically can't hang air wise with divers who dive year round (no matter how much you focus on breathing). The more relaxed you are the better you will be. If you log your dives, you will see you gradually getting better. And lastly...someone else mentioned above considering steel tanks. This is always awesome if you can get them.
 
Unfortunately 99% of Open water divers aren't comfortable with their buoyancy (air consumption, dive planning etc), there are techniques used to "dial" in your buoyancy during open water instead of letting students "figure it out on your own" or "just practice lots". Further, instructors that neglected to teach proper buoyancy first offer a Peak Performance Buoyancy course. What makes you think they can teach proper buoyancy now?
Rant over..............

Addressing trim, weights and buoyancy.................these things are all related............a quality instructor will teach you proper breathing (buoyancy), then determine proper weight and then proper distribution (trim).

An agency I teach for has a work shop that addresses these issues for students of other agencies that haven't used these techniques during the open water course. Its comprised of a few hours in a pool, that's it. Guaranteed to dial in your weight, trim and buoyancy. I also know several instructors here on SB have the skills to do this as well. I can post some videos of the change/final result if you like. I'm not sure if there is an instructor in your local area but I'm more than willing to help find one if you like.

You can go it alone which takes time and frustration or spend 1 day on a workshop and be amazed at the results.
 
We can't comment on your trim without a pic, so in water pic please.

Remember, Al and steel tanks trim oppositely. On steel tanks you're moving weight. On AL tanks you're moving the bubble in the butt of the tank, so you're actually moving buoyancy, not weight.

If you're butt heavy and have your AL tank down really low, then the comment on adding a two pound ankle weight to the tank valve might work. You can also add weight pockets to your shoulder straps to do the same thing.
Thank you, I'll try and get some pic next dive.
 
Just a quick note for those unfamiliar with the OP's BCD - the Zuma is a lightweight travel BCD that is designed to put the load above water on your waist rather than your shoulders. Unfortunately, this design puts the cylinder band at about the same place on our hips that a weight belt would ride. The integrated weight pockets on the front are also positioned in that area. So even though the cylinder band can take optional trim pockets, they really only move some weight to the back, but NOT higher on your torso - which I feel is the primary benefit of most trim weights. So the more weight you need, the more likely are to have trouble staying trim without recourse to the usual tweaks as the weight is all distributed around your waist.

So, much of the "usual" general advice for buoyancy and trim needs to be filtered through that reality in this particular instance.
 
I thought it was okay in the pool. I had gotten my weights done from 12 lbs to 6lbs. I even was okay with 4 but when the tank got light it was hard to stay down.

I'm around your age 5'11" 165# and dive with 6# in the Caribbean wearing a 1.5 ,mil heater top. I did finish a dive with 3# once bc my wife needed more at the end of a dive, but 4-6# for you I have a hard time believing when I needed 8# when I was 198#.

At 218, I would think you needed a minimum 10# for any dive.
 
@Jeffr13

What fins are you using? You sound head heavy. Switching from say Hollis F1s to Deep 6 Eddy fins are going to have a dramatic impact.

Would you mind posting a pic of your scuba kit assembed?
This is backwards, unless it is meant to be MORE head down....F1s are heavier than Eddys.
 
All good advice here as always. "decompression" mentioned trim, weights and buoyancy as all being related. Maybe throw in breathing as well. I have been lucky in that I had little problem with any of those when I started, other than "corking" a bit the first couple of "checkout" OW dives. I have heavy split fins, which causes me to be a tiny bit out of trim (feet down), but nowhere near enough to bother with an equipment or weight adjustment.
My thought is buoyancy and weights are the most related of the 4. Basically, you do the standard buoyancy check then add the 5 pounds as mentioned and that is that--you are properly weighted (or close enough for it not to matter. We can never be perfectly weighted except at the exact time loss of tank air crosses over with those extra 5 pounds added). Overweight and even underweight causes more use of air.
Trim on the other hand directly affects your air consumption even if properly weighted, as does improper finning, use of arms, etc. If you are out of trim, extra motion to right things will cause more use of air.
Breathing is yet another subject. There are 2 threads active now (in Advanced and New Divers, I think), with quite a few posts.
 
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