Trip Report Bonaire March 2024–Dead reefs

[ScubaBunga]

I was there in Nov 2023 and previously July of 2022. The difference in that year was startling to me. I was also depressed and have no plans to go back to Bonaire unless there are reports of significant turnaround on the reef health. I had also been there over 20 years ago and that was just fantastic - but now, it was a horrible difference.
I have some videos from the November trip - mostly targeting sea life, but you can see the reefs in many of the videos:
Bonaire 2023 Playlist

In addition to the reef, the lack of life compared to previous trips was significant as well. One example, in both of my last trips, finding small drums occurred on one dive each trip - previous trip (2000) there were several on each dive. I did not even see a single squid on the 2023 trip (others did, but used to see them on almost every dive).

 

[mbs]

Are they still requiring sanitizing gear after dives?

 

[uncfnp]

In Bonaire now. Will post more later since only 3 dives so far. Of sea life on our dives … squid, octopus, large spanish lobster, free swimming beautiful green moray, small golden tail, juvenile smooth trunk and drums, turtle, grouper, the largest jolthead porgy I have ever seen, a flash mob of blue tang and most of the other usual suspects. There was one point in the reef yesterday that had the largest concentration of fish we have seen in several trips.

With temps in the low 80’s we have seen no bleaching.

 

[woodcarver]

I'm headed there in about 3 weeks and will be there for almost a month. If the reefs were all dying as the OP suggests, my brother, who lives & dives there, would have said something or sent pics. I'm looking forward to playing in the water again; it's been too long.

 

[Lorenzoid]

Salt Pier is mostly about the sponges and schools of various reef fish. In terms of the reef, it's always going to look pretty beat up compared to healthy sections because it's an industrial site.

This. Salt Pier is my favorite site, but it is not what I would call "beautiful"--certainly not in terms of coral. It's like muck diving, but instead of a featureless muck bottom that the animals live in it's discarded junk and the "artificial reef" of the pier.

 

[submersible_human]

Are they still requiring sanitizing gear after dives?

I was on the island in the beginning of the month and it is recommended to do so when changing dive sites. Also it is suggested - in case you are planning to dive different spots per day - to start your day where there is less SCTLD according to the map and eventually progress to the areas where there is more of an issue, not the other way around. That's obviously also aimed at trying to reduce spreading the disease.

When entering the national park in the north of Bonaire any swimming and snorkeling equipment has to be cleaned with bleach as well. They have a cleaning station set up at the entrance. Scuba diving was not permitted up there during my stay.

 

[submersible_human]

In Bonaire now. Will post more later since only 3 dives so far. Of sea life on our dives … squid, octopus, large spanish lobster, free swimming beautiful green moray, small golden tail, juvenile smooth trunk and drums, turtle, grouper, the largest jolthead porgy I have ever seen, a flash mob of blue tang and most of the other usual suspects. There was one point in the reef yesterday that had the largest concentration of fish we have seen in several trips.

With temps in the low 80’s we have seen no bleaching.

Enjoy! We had a lot of fun as well. If you want to chill out in the afternoon/evening I can recommend visiting one of the surf shops at Lac Bay. There are usually quite some people and you can have a drink and/or some food right at the water in one of their restaurants. Good times!

 

[Catito]

Did you try the far southern sites? Historically I really liked Sweet Dreams for the lush gorgonian growth in the shallower part of the reef. We may have to start focusing on things SCTLD doesn't hit, sad as that is.

Richard.

On the map, the Southern sites are also marked red and orange. The only two green sites, Wilemstoren Lighthouse and White Hole are way South and can only be attempted if the conditions are perfect because of big waves and strong currents. Sweet Dreams is marked orange—not going to drive there (at this point) because I suspect it will look the same. I will ask around.

The sky is not falling. Your post is hyperbole bordering on BS.

Are you here? You can’t possibly be here if you think the reefs are fine. Nope. Not hyperbole. Wish it was. I feel like some people deny it so that the tourists keep coming. Karpata was better than the others, thus far. 50% dead compared to 75% dead.

 

[NW Dive Dawg]

I was last there for 10 days in May of 2023, so only about 10 months ago... To summarize, Bonaire is definitely not as pristine as it was on our first of 20+ visits since 1995.....but it is still one of, if not the best, Caribbean dive destinations. If our 1995 trip was considered a 10, then I'd say our trip last May was an 8.. Yes there were some signs of SCLTD but otherwise all good.

And the "quaintness" of the overall Bonaire experience has changed in 30 years as does everything.... but isn't that the case everywhere?

I agree with @drrich2 in my hope that the far south sites are as beautiful as ever. As a matter of fact, my wife and I love the Vista Blue site so much that we named our boat after it........and this past May, it was still just as beautiful and pristine as I remember from all of our trips. Eagle Ray's live on the Vista Blue site.

For those of you planning the SB Invasion this next June.....or anyone else.....don't be discouraged or fearful of this thread. Just go with the flow and have a blast.

PS.... Book at least one day with East Coast Divers. You won't regret it!

 

[Lorenzoid]

Pictures, @Catito. Pictures, please.