Best technique for Hollis leaking seam

[scubaalblake]

Over the years I have repaired a lot of Drysuit….replaced seals…..glued on patches etc.
I now have a Hollis DX-300-X which has a small leak from one of the seams in the crotch area.
I have done a leak check and found the small bubbles on the outside.
When I turn the suit inside out it’s taped and I can’t see any problems with the tape at that point - although I know bubbles can track along the seams from elsewhere.
As I say I repaired a lot of suits before - but not this construction. -whats the preferred method?
One suggestion is smother the tape 5 cm either side of the supposed leak with Aquaseal - but thats messy and you can’t get aquaseal off if you need to do further repairs.
Other option is to heat the existing tape - peel it off and then heat and roll on new hot-melt tape.
Seems a neater option but I’ve never done it before.
Any issues (apart from not heating the suit material too much).
Also - I already have rubber Drysuit tape and 2-part glue which I use for repairs on other suits. Would this be ok to use on the Hollis - or does it have to be the hot-melt stuff (which I will have to order).
Cheers
Al in Oz.

 

[Still Kicking]

Over the years I have repaired a lot of Drysuit….replaced seals…..glued on patches etc.
I now have a Hollis DX-300-X which has a small leak from one of the seams in the crotch area.
I have done a leak check and found the small bubbles on the outside.
When I turn the suit inside out it’s taped and I can’t see any problems with the tape at that point - although I know bubbles can track along the seams from elsewhere.
As I say I repaired a lot of suits before - but not this construction. -whats the preferred method?
One suggestion is smother the tape 5 cm either side of the supposed leak with Aquaseal - but thats messy and you can’t get aquaseal off if you need to do further repairs.
Other option is to heat the existing tape - peel it off and then heat and roll on new hot-melt tape.
Seems a neater option but I’ve never done it before.
Any issues (apart from not heating the suit material too much).
Also - I already have rubber Drysuit tape and 2-part glue which I use for repairs on other suits. Would this be ok to use on the Hollis - or does it have to be the hot-melt stuff (which I will have to order).
Cheers
Al in Oz.

If you can turn the suit inside out and figure a way to inflate it (I have a neck plug with an inflator fitting), you can find the leak on the inside of the suit and Aquaseal it at the source.

Building a special plug for one suit is a PITA but perhaps you can reverse the Inflator valve on the chest or run a hose inside the suit at the wrist and then bind the cuff so it's air tight enough to put some pressure in the suit and find that leak.

 

[happy-diver]

Dude, see this

I thinned some of this stuff

and brushed it in good

 

[Bald Wookie]

If you've done a leak test and identified the leaking area, I would:
1. Remove the seam tape in that area (and above and below it a bit like you mentioned) with a heat gun. This will expose the actual seam. Not removing the tape may allow some leaking through capillary action through the fabric even with aquaseal over it.
2. Clean the area with thinner, MEK, similar product to remove debris and some glue.
3. A light sanding/dremeling may be needed. Its up to your discretion but you should be ok seeing as the old seam tape was there.
4. Carefully apply aquaseal to the area, using it as a replacement to the seam tape. To keep it tidy, try not to go out of the bounds of where the old tape was.
5. Allow it to dry for 24 hrs.
6. Leak test again.

 

[Whitrzac]

More aquaseal...

 

[boat sju]

I don't understand. Why aquaseal? Isn't it a fabric suit? Why not just use the drysuit tape and the usual contact cement?

 

[PR_SMITH]

Remove the old seam tape, replace with new tape(either hot-melt or use 2 part adhesive), then mix up some Aquaseal with Cotol accelerator and cover the new tape by 1/4" either side.
I use SC4000 adhesive, for seams and tape, works really well.

 

[Bald Wookie]

I don't understand. Why aquaseal? Isn't it a fabric suit? Why not just use the drysuit tape and the usual contact cement?

This is a personal preference of mine, I find that depending on how hard people are on their suits (commercial divers are VERY hard on their suits, for example), the seam tape wears much faster than the aquaseal. So even when seams are re-taped, the tape eventually begins to peel off again. If you've seem older suits, you'll know exactly what I mean.

I choose to use aquaseal or similar on internal seam repairs as it lasts longer and is less prone to peeling off if done correctly. For casual recreational divers (less than say, 10-25 dives/year) I will seam tape to preserve the appearance.

On the outside of suits, I will use seam tape to preserve the stock appearance.

 

[boat sju]

Don't get me wrong, I love Aquaseal. Some of my gloves and boots have ended up more aquaseal than neoprene. I'm thinking that if the OP starts picking around at the seem tape he's going to find more extensive tape repair is needed.

So @Bald Wookie, do you thin the aquaseal and "paint" the seam essentially?

 

[OhioDivingDude]

If you can turn the suit inside out and figure a way to inflate it (I have a neck plug with an inflator fitting), you can find the leak on the inside of the suit and Aquaseal it at the source.

Building a special plug for one suit is a PITA but perhaps you can reverse the Inflator valve on the chest or run a hose inside the suit at the wrist and then bind the cuff so it's air tight enough to put some pressure in the suit and find that leak.

This is the way to find the leak. Flip the suit inside out and the same with the inflator. Use a ball or bucket to seal the neck and cups for the wrist. pump it up nice and tight hose down with soapy water. how you repair it from there is up to you.