Best first regulator, DIY service

[halocline]

However I don't find the MK2 to be unpleasant to use, I like its simplicity but I assumed that a more sophisticated regulator wouldn't be bad to start with. Do you think the R195 is a good choice to pair an MK2 with? It is easily available for 230$ around here.

How can one learn to service a MK2/R195?

Another question as I see that tbone1004 is a technical diver: do you think that I could start with a BP/W setup? Few people seem to use them in France's rec diving community but I hate jacket BCDs and an horizontal trim seems to be easier to achieve.

A MK2/R195 is a decent workhorse that will perform well and is extremely simple. However, if your intention is to DIY service, I would buy a used MK2 and instead of the R195, look for a SP metal case barrel poppet reg, known by it's part number 109. It's a better breather than the R195, probably less expensive to buy (they're all decades old) and easier to service than the R195. The only thing is that you may need to upgrade some of the internal parts initially. Once you do that, you can service it with only a flat seat and 2 standard o-rings. Vintagedoublehose.com has all these parts and a wealth of information.

Another option for the 1st stage is a MK5 or MK10. These are also older SP regs, better performers than the MK2 (not that it really makes much difference in recreational diving) and very easy to work on. They do require slightly more in the way of special tools.

In terms of learning, there are several good resources. There are 2 books; one by Vance Harlow on regulator repair which is excellent and a great starting point. The other is called regulator savvy, by Peter Wolfinger, which is also excellent, but probably better to look at after the more basic Harlow book. Reg savvy does a great job of explaining regulator function and design in detail; it also recommends using many expensive specialized tools which are not necessary for the DIYer.

Another good source is right here on the DIY forums. You can search old threads for lots of very helpful information and there are many knowledgeable people that will help you. As I mentioned, vintagedoublehose.com is another excellent resource.

Regarding the BP/W, my opinion is a very enthusiastic YES you should use one. To me they are a huge improvement over jacket BCs for all diving, not just technical.

Have fun!

 

[grf88]

I would also cast a vote for DS4/XTX50. Great for both cold and warm water, easy to service and service kits are readily available in Europe.

 

[Kharon]

I started with a Cressi AC2/XS2 1st/2nd stage and an XS2 octo. I service them myself and after getting a solo card and with ≈ 300 dives I've seen no need to get anthing else. I don't exceed rec depths but have had them to over a 100 feet at 42°F and 130 feet in warm water with no problems.

They are easy to service and the service manuals are on line or on youtube, but I can send you them so you don't have to hunt.

Parts are easy to get from DiveSeekers ( Buy Scuba diving gear for recreational, technical, and wreck. ) for about $15 each kit. The regs themselves are inexpensive ($152 for a combo AC2/XS2 Cressi Ac2 Xs2 and $70 for the octo Cressi Xs Octo )

 

[Polomelo]

Thank you all, that's a lot a great info to process ! I'll definitely look into the BP/W setup. Not easy to choose between aluminium and SS, basic or "deluxe" harness, etc.

I am still leaning towards the DS4/XTX50 for its comfort (balanced v. unbalanced), simplicity, not-so-high price tag and suitability for more advanced types of diving. Its online reputation is both reassuring and intimidating: I almost feel like I have yet to earn the right to use one.

 

[tbone1004]

Thank you all, that's a lot a great info to process ! I'll definitely look into the BP/W setup. Not easy to choose between aluminium and SS, basic or "deluxe" harness, etc.

I am still leaning towards the DS4/XTX50 for its comfort (balanced v. unbalanced), simplicity, not-so-high price tag and suitability for more advanced types of diving. Its online reputation is both reassuring and intimidating: I almost feel like I have yet to earn the right to use one.

pretty easy. based on what you're doing and the desire to go to technical, you need a SS plate, and you want a basic harness. If for whatever reason after 40-50 dives you don't like the basic harness, then get the deluxe.

regarding the regulators. If buying new, I would still highly recommend going with a doubles set of regulators to get the extra first stage. If anything, it will give you a pair of regulators that match. Not important to a lot of people, but I do prefer mine to match if at all possible.

You won't notice balanced vs. unbalanced as long as one of the stages are balanced. I.e. unbalanced first with balanced seconds, not an issue, same with vice versa. If both are balanced, it's redundant, and if both are unbalanced, you may see a bit of performance degradation as the cylinders get low on pressure

 

[USdiver1]

You are French.. Cousteau and Gagnan were as well. Aqua Lung should be in your DNA. Get a Core, Titan or Calypso as a first regulator. Very reliable and serviceable.

 

[BoltSnap]

You are French and assuming that you are living in France, I don't know why you would consider any regulator/company from outside France when you already have two of the greatest dive equipment/regulator companies right there in your own country, Scubapro and Aqua Lung. There is also Beuchat which is the actual manufacturer of regulators for many companies in the world. I don't see the sense of considering anything from outside France. Scubapro has probably the best regulators out there with AL close. I'd also recommend that you concentrate on your recreational diving needs now and leave the "technical" requirements for later when you are actually qualified for technical diving and have a much higher level of knowledge and appreciation of the difference between regulators. Should you go the technical diving route, you are going to own two different sets of equipment anyways, one for recreational diving and one for technical diving (at least one set each ).

If you are going to be diving deeper than 20 meters soon (after you take your advanced course), I'd consider the MK17/S560 combination. Scubapro lowered the price for this combination and it is a VERY good deal for a top performing combination first and second stage regulator.

(To work on your own regulator to do service and overhaul maintenance and to acquire the knowledge, tools and parts for a one regulator setup doesn't make any sense at all. I'd just concentrate on the diving part now and on getting more experience diving and becoming a more competent diver first. This process will take time and will depend on your diligence for getting training and going out diving more.)

 

[buddhasummer]

A BP/W is fine regardless of experience and indeed a good place to start.

I've dove Apeks for many years, very reliable and simple to service, no specialized tools required just a pin/C spanner and some hex keys. Manuals are readily available. I've never had any issues getting service kits.

The DS4 only has one HP port so if an AI computer is in your future you'd be better buying a DST, FSR or FST first stage. I like the FSR first stage the best, nice hose routing for BM singles, now has optional bottom 5th port and is the only Apeks model with a removable crown/orifice, not a deal breaker but if somehow the crown gets damaged it can be replaced for pennies, on all other models you'll need a new body.

You can buy firsts and seconds separately. I'm a fan of matching performance seconds so would recommend two XTX50s, it also makes servicing easier.

Good luck on your journey.

 

[runsongas]

older scubapro like the mk2/5/10 or the us divers conshelf series are cheap and easy to service

 

[tbone1004]

I'll disagree with @buddhasummer on the second HP port requirement for AI. If you are doing recreational diving especially, and are doing it with a quality computer, i.e. Perdix AI, then I see 0 reason to have redundant pressure monitoring. Even in a cave, I wouldn't bother with it unless the dive was 100% critical to complete. If the transmitter fails, the dive gets turned. Once turned, you either have enough to get out or you don't, SPG's don't matter after you've called the dive. In OW, if the SPG fails, depending on how good you are, you can either ballpark it and continue the time to your planned time limit *which should have been set based on a combination of gas limits and NDL's, basically whichever comes first*, and should have an adequate buffer. Keep a SPG on the boat in your save a dive kit to swap out at the surface, but no need to bring it on every dive