hopefulist
Contributor
Hi, all -
I split 5 weeks between Guatemala and Belize this summer. I've posted the link to my photo collections; links to trip blogs with a few photos and full (really long) travelogues can be found on the main page of each. I've pasted the Glover's Atoll and Caye Caulker bits of the full travelogue below - return trip to Glover's and 1st time to Caulker. It was a really wonderful, memorable trip; let me know if you have questions. Happy trails!
Hopefulist's Photos on Flickr
GLOVER'S ATOLL RESORT
The morning of August 9th at 8am Mariah (daughter), Greg (son-in-law), Mike (husband), and I went to Glover’s Guesthouse in neighboring Sittee River Village to connect with our boat headed to Glover’s Atoll. It was hours before we left while they dug up enough diesel for the trip, but the 40 mile ride itself was wonderful - smooth ride in their 80 foot catamaran, beautiful weather, and dolphin escorts. This was a great start to our wonderful week on North East Caye at Glover’s Atoll Resort (US$250/pp for the trip out and back and a beach cabin). There was a large group of teen-agers attending an adventure camp our 1st night there and, since the beach cabins were full that night, we were upgraded to over-the-water cabins for the week; ours were numbers 7 and 8, attached to the shore and each other by a Y shaped walkway. We loved them. Since last visit they’ve upgraded the toilets and added shower stalls, though the water is still the smelly brackish sort that was offered for bucket baths 6 years ago. Our cabin had a really serviceable propane stove, (another improvement) and we cooked our own meals and ate simply and well, purchasing a few loaves of homemade bread and fresh fish for our last 2 dinners. There were only 2 other couples there when we were, one who bought the meal package (US$250 each) and reported that the food was excellent (though I don’t think Tony, the cook when we were there, is a permanent fixture).
My husband flyfished daily for bonefish, catch and release, on NE Caye and neighboring Long Caye with good success, especially early in the week (success has a lot to do with the timing of the tides as well as experience); he hitched a ride on the dive boat to SW Caye one morning but wasn’t impressed with the fishing there. He also caught a big permit off Long Caye, a highlight of his trip (and maybe even his life). Mike and Greg went north beyond the boundary of the Marine Reserve but weren’t able to catch dinner.
The snorkeling and diving (US$40-50/dive) around Glover’s Atoll is absolutely phenomenal. I identified more than 60 fish species my first dive and more than 120 in all, new things every dive. Lots of great wall drift dives (mild current), turtles, nurse sharks, cool things like soap fish, razor fish, spotted eagle rays, giant jew fish, juvenile spotted drums, camouflaged scorpionfish, schools of jacks, clouds of juvenile tangs, damselfish, butterflyfish, you name it. One dive I saw nearly 30 cow fish, another there were huge trumpet fish everywhere. And the snorkeling, even from shore, is nearly as good as the diving. We also rented 2 sit upon kayaks for the week (US$150) and put them to good use.
The divemaster, Santos, was terrific as were the boat captains, Rudy and Ian. I enjoyed several evening conversations with Becky and touched base a few times with Marsha Jo. We couldn’t believe how grownup the kids are, especially Warren who was 10 last time and now is a 16-year-old who looks 20 and recently won a huge fishing derby based out of Belize City, competing against teams of adults with heavily rigged boats while he was scooting around with a friend in his little skiff. Glover’s Atoll “Resort” gets mixed press but once again, we enjoyed the setting, activities, and the people, had an absolutely marvelous time and are certain to head back again in the future.
CAYE CAULKER
On Sunday, August 16th, we were picked up by a shuttle and made a stop at Caves Branch to pick up the BIF (brother-in-law's family of 5 including boys 12, 14, and 18). The new walkways and pool area are beautiful but give the place a very resort feel; we preferred the wild paths and jungle feel of 6 years ago. We continued as a group of 9 to Belmopan where Mike and I and the BIF were dropped off at the bus station and the shuttle continued to San Ignacio with Mariah and Greg. They enjoyed 3 days of Maya ruins exploration (Caracol, Lamanai, Xunantunich, and Cahal Pech) as part of a week-long trip Greg won from an avid traveler and Maya ruins junky who we called “Other Greg”. They had a wonderful time, enjoying the ruins and the company of Other Greg and his friend, Steve. A highlight was meeting a baby howler monkey at Caracol who was injured in a fall a few months back, rehabilitated at the Belize Zoo, but was rejected by the troop when he was returned to Caracol. The guides he hangs out with named him Jack and he leapt into Mariah’s arms when she was shooing away a dog who was teasing him - a once in a lifetime experience.
Mike and I and the BIF grabbed some snacks at the bus station, hopped on an express bus to Belize City, taxied to the dock, and missed the 1:30 ferry by 30 seconds San Pedro Express (US$7.50 one way, US$12.50 both ways). We explored Belize City and the area ice cream options, then headed to Caye Caulker on the 3 pm boat, meeting some interesting other travelers and locals on the way. On Caye Caulker we stayed at Auxillou Beach Suites ($89/night double or triple), now a side shoot of Tina’s Hostel, and the BIF stayed next door at Sailwinds ($80/night/double, $15 each add’l person, kids under 13 stay free); our rooms had side-by-side balconies so we just had to hop a railing to visit one another and they’re both conveniently located on the beach just steps from the ferry docks. In each case the rooms were big (nice-sized living rooms with a sofa bed or futon, television and kitchen, king bed in the bedroom, bath with good hot water, and air conditioning; the rooms were cleaned daily by friendly staff. I think our place is heading down the slippery slope to hostel mode and I would pick Sailwinds if I wanted a similar room again, though it would be bigger than we’d need if there were just 2 of us.
Having kitchens was, again, handy. We shopped at the local Chinese groceries and prepared most of our own meals, including lots of fruit and rice and beans and wonderful fresh barracuda steaks we bought from 2 brothers, fishermen who Mike and Eric hired for some drop off/pick up flyfishing near Caye Chapel. There are several nice bakeries and the cake man walks around selling incredible treats in the evenings including coconut macaroon cake, mango upside down cake, and key lime pie cake that were heavenly.
We had 2 meals out that are worth noting. Early in the week Mike and I had a really amazing dinner at Wish Willy, located on a side street near the cut. Most of the seafood dinners are US$7.50 which includes side dishes and limitless mixed drinks. Mike and I each chose the seafood combo for US$12.50 which had big, full servings of lobster, shrimp, and barracuda steak with a delicious sweet chinese noodle/vegie side dish. The setting is not fancy (the backyard of a house); we had to move from our 1st table because of red ants (just warned, no bites) and there was a gecko chirping on the rafter above us - all part of the charm. Mike says it’s the best meal he’s had in his life which is really saying something since his mom is a really great cook - highly recommended.
Our last night in Belize, Greg and Mariah (and Other Greg and Steve) rejoined us and we ate out together at Jolly Rogers, located between the docks and the cut. He serves fresh grilled seafood (only lobster the night we went) with 3 side dishes, mixed drinks, and cake for dessert for US$12.50. Roger is indeed jolly; the meal was good but not fabulous and the rum drinks were weak (I have this on good authority, my juice straight up was fine). By comparison it was a disappointment.
Eric and Mike found some fish from the docks and a few bonefish near Caye Chapel, but were generally not thrilled with the fishing (though they only tried for a few days and did not try local guides). Kathy, Tyler, and Eli did a Discover Scuba course at Frenchie’s Diving (US$99/pp) and were really pleased and will pursue certification in the future - they even saw manatees one dive. I did a 2 tank dive with Frenchie’s in the Hol Chan Marine Park (US$98/pp) and I enjoyed my dives there very much. Since it’s a reserve (and I suspect they feed them) the large fish are unafraid and follow you around - groupers, horse eyed jacks, schools of snapper and blue tangs, occasional nurse sharks and rays. Highlights were the gigantic remora (4’
that kept bumping me, hoping I was a shark or whale to attach to and the beautiful turtles munching on turtle grass in shallow water while I snorkled above them during my whole surface interval. In my opinion the reef and variety of flora and fauna doesn’t hold a candle to Glover’s but I enjoyed the dives and would choose Frenchie’s again.
Our last full day Mike, Eric, Adam, and I spent the day with Raggamuffin Tours doing a 3 stop sailing/snorkeling trip that included the Coral Gardens, Shark Ray Alley, and Hol Chan. Highlights of the snorkeling were the sharks and rays and a school of big tarpon. The day was really splendid altogether - loved the boat, the staff, the lunch, the ceviche and rum punch, and listening to Bob Marley for hours - highly recommended.
We really loved Caulker. We found the people to be very friendly and talkative and helpful; Mariah is really beautiful and received constant comments when I walked with her down the street, but not wolfish, just flattering and poetic; I felt a bit invisible but didn’t mind. We were surprised by the expense compared to (for example) Roatán or Utila for similar lodgings, but we didn’t really seek out budget places since we wanted more amenities at the end of our trip after a week on Glover’s without electricity and running water. There were plenty of lodging, food, and activity options, and the pace was perfect for us - a great ending to a great Belize visit.
I split 5 weeks between Guatemala and Belize this summer. I've posted the link to my photo collections; links to trip blogs with a few photos and full (really long) travelogues can be found on the main page of each. I've pasted the Glover's Atoll and Caye Caulker bits of the full travelogue below - return trip to Glover's and 1st time to Caulker. It was a really wonderful, memorable trip; let me know if you have questions. Happy trails!
Hopefulist's Photos on Flickr
GLOVER'S ATOLL RESORT
The morning of August 9th at 8am Mariah (daughter), Greg (son-in-law), Mike (husband), and I went to Glover’s Guesthouse in neighboring Sittee River Village to connect with our boat headed to Glover’s Atoll. It was hours before we left while they dug up enough diesel for the trip, but the 40 mile ride itself was wonderful - smooth ride in their 80 foot catamaran, beautiful weather, and dolphin escorts. This was a great start to our wonderful week on North East Caye at Glover’s Atoll Resort (US$250/pp for the trip out and back and a beach cabin). There was a large group of teen-agers attending an adventure camp our 1st night there and, since the beach cabins were full that night, we were upgraded to over-the-water cabins for the week; ours were numbers 7 and 8, attached to the shore and each other by a Y shaped walkway. We loved them. Since last visit they’ve upgraded the toilets and added shower stalls, though the water is still the smelly brackish sort that was offered for bucket baths 6 years ago. Our cabin had a really serviceable propane stove, (another improvement) and we cooked our own meals and ate simply and well, purchasing a few loaves of homemade bread and fresh fish for our last 2 dinners. There were only 2 other couples there when we were, one who bought the meal package (US$250 each) and reported that the food was excellent (though I don’t think Tony, the cook when we were there, is a permanent fixture).
My husband flyfished daily for bonefish, catch and release, on NE Caye and neighboring Long Caye with good success, especially early in the week (success has a lot to do with the timing of the tides as well as experience); he hitched a ride on the dive boat to SW Caye one morning but wasn’t impressed with the fishing there. He also caught a big permit off Long Caye, a highlight of his trip (and maybe even his life). Mike and Greg went north beyond the boundary of the Marine Reserve but weren’t able to catch dinner.
The snorkeling and diving (US$40-50/dive) around Glover’s Atoll is absolutely phenomenal. I identified more than 60 fish species my first dive and more than 120 in all, new things every dive. Lots of great wall drift dives (mild current), turtles, nurse sharks, cool things like soap fish, razor fish, spotted eagle rays, giant jew fish, juvenile spotted drums, camouflaged scorpionfish, schools of jacks, clouds of juvenile tangs, damselfish, butterflyfish, you name it. One dive I saw nearly 30 cow fish, another there were huge trumpet fish everywhere. And the snorkeling, even from shore, is nearly as good as the diving. We also rented 2 sit upon kayaks for the week (US$150) and put them to good use.
The divemaster, Santos, was terrific as were the boat captains, Rudy and Ian. I enjoyed several evening conversations with Becky and touched base a few times with Marsha Jo. We couldn’t believe how grownup the kids are, especially Warren who was 10 last time and now is a 16-year-old who looks 20 and recently won a huge fishing derby based out of Belize City, competing against teams of adults with heavily rigged boats while he was scooting around with a friend in his little skiff. Glover’s Atoll “Resort” gets mixed press but once again, we enjoyed the setting, activities, and the people, had an absolutely marvelous time and are certain to head back again in the future.
CAYE CAULKER
On Sunday, August 16th, we were picked up by a shuttle and made a stop at Caves Branch to pick up the BIF (brother-in-law's family of 5 including boys 12, 14, and 18). The new walkways and pool area are beautiful but give the place a very resort feel; we preferred the wild paths and jungle feel of 6 years ago. We continued as a group of 9 to Belmopan where Mike and I and the BIF were dropped off at the bus station and the shuttle continued to San Ignacio with Mariah and Greg. They enjoyed 3 days of Maya ruins exploration (Caracol, Lamanai, Xunantunich, and Cahal Pech) as part of a week-long trip Greg won from an avid traveler and Maya ruins junky who we called “Other Greg”. They had a wonderful time, enjoying the ruins and the company of Other Greg and his friend, Steve. A highlight was meeting a baby howler monkey at Caracol who was injured in a fall a few months back, rehabilitated at the Belize Zoo, but was rejected by the troop when he was returned to Caracol. The guides he hangs out with named him Jack and he leapt into Mariah’s arms when she was shooing away a dog who was teasing him - a once in a lifetime experience.
Mike and I and the BIF grabbed some snacks at the bus station, hopped on an express bus to Belize City, taxied to the dock, and missed the 1:30 ferry by 30 seconds San Pedro Express (US$7.50 one way, US$12.50 both ways). We explored Belize City and the area ice cream options, then headed to Caye Caulker on the 3 pm boat, meeting some interesting other travelers and locals on the way. On Caye Caulker we stayed at Auxillou Beach Suites ($89/night double or triple), now a side shoot of Tina’s Hostel, and the BIF stayed next door at Sailwinds ($80/night/double, $15 each add’l person, kids under 13 stay free); our rooms had side-by-side balconies so we just had to hop a railing to visit one another and they’re both conveniently located on the beach just steps from the ferry docks. In each case the rooms were big (nice-sized living rooms with a sofa bed or futon, television and kitchen, king bed in the bedroom, bath with good hot water, and air conditioning; the rooms were cleaned daily by friendly staff. I think our place is heading down the slippery slope to hostel mode and I would pick Sailwinds if I wanted a similar room again, though it would be bigger than we’d need if there were just 2 of us.
Having kitchens was, again, handy. We shopped at the local Chinese groceries and prepared most of our own meals, including lots of fruit and rice and beans and wonderful fresh barracuda steaks we bought from 2 brothers, fishermen who Mike and Eric hired for some drop off/pick up flyfishing near Caye Chapel. There are several nice bakeries and the cake man walks around selling incredible treats in the evenings including coconut macaroon cake, mango upside down cake, and key lime pie cake that were heavenly.
We had 2 meals out that are worth noting. Early in the week Mike and I had a really amazing dinner at Wish Willy, located on a side street near the cut. Most of the seafood dinners are US$7.50 which includes side dishes and limitless mixed drinks. Mike and I each chose the seafood combo for US$12.50 which had big, full servings of lobster, shrimp, and barracuda steak with a delicious sweet chinese noodle/vegie side dish. The setting is not fancy (the backyard of a house); we had to move from our 1st table because of red ants (just warned, no bites) and there was a gecko chirping on the rafter above us - all part of the charm. Mike says it’s the best meal he’s had in his life which is really saying something since his mom is a really great cook - highly recommended.
Our last night in Belize, Greg and Mariah (and Other Greg and Steve) rejoined us and we ate out together at Jolly Rogers, located between the docks and the cut. He serves fresh grilled seafood (only lobster the night we went) with 3 side dishes, mixed drinks, and cake for dessert for US$12.50. Roger is indeed jolly; the meal was good but not fabulous and the rum drinks were weak (I have this on good authority, my juice straight up was fine). By comparison it was a disappointment.
Eric and Mike found some fish from the docks and a few bonefish near Caye Chapel, but were generally not thrilled with the fishing (though they only tried for a few days and did not try local guides). Kathy, Tyler, and Eli did a Discover Scuba course at Frenchie’s Diving (US$99/pp) and were really pleased and will pursue certification in the future - they even saw manatees one dive. I did a 2 tank dive with Frenchie’s in the Hol Chan Marine Park (US$98/pp) and I enjoyed my dives there very much. Since it’s a reserve (and I suspect they feed them) the large fish are unafraid and follow you around - groupers, horse eyed jacks, schools of snapper and blue tangs, occasional nurse sharks and rays. Highlights were the gigantic remora (4’
that kept bumping me, hoping I was a shark or whale to attach to and the beautiful turtles munching on turtle grass in shallow water while I snorkled above them during my whole surface interval. In my opinion the reef and variety of flora and fauna doesn’t hold a candle to Glover’s but I enjoyed the dives and would choose Frenchie’s again.Our last full day Mike, Eric, Adam, and I spent the day with Raggamuffin Tours doing a 3 stop sailing/snorkeling trip that included the Coral Gardens, Shark Ray Alley, and Hol Chan. Highlights of the snorkeling were the sharks and rays and a school of big tarpon. The day was really splendid altogether - loved the boat, the staff, the lunch, the ceviche and rum punch, and listening to Bob Marley for hours - highly recommended.
We really loved Caulker. We found the people to be very friendly and talkative and helpful; Mariah is really beautiful and received constant comments when I walked with her down the street, but not wolfish, just flattering and poetic; I felt a bit invisible but didn’t mind. We were surprised by the expense compared to (for example) Roatán or Utila for similar lodgings, but we didn’t really seek out budget places since we wanted more amenities at the end of our trip after a week on Glover’s without electricity and running water. There were plenty of lodging, food, and activity options, and the pace was perfect for us - a great ending to a great Belize visit.
