Belize Dive Reports

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Leejnd

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Location
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Belize Dive Reports

My husband Charlie and I took a trip to Belize a couple of weeks ago. These are my dive reports. (They are kind of wordy, but I write them up for my travel journal so there are lots of notes in here to help me remember the trip.) While we both were certified together about a year ago, I’ve been fortunate to be able to do a LOT more diving than he has – I’m almost at 100, while he started this trip with only 24 dives. Hence you’ll see a few comments in here about how he was improving.

We stayed on Caye Caulker, at the Barefoot Beach Belize hotel, and dove with Belize Diving Services. BDS did a FANTASTIC job for us! We brought our own equipment, and the first day, one of the owners drove all the way down to our hotel (which is way at the south end of the island) to pick us up and bring our gear to their shop. Once we brought our gear there, we never had to worry about it again. They simply had it ready each day, on the boat, and at the end of each day they would tell us to just leave everything where it was on the boat, and they’d take care of it. They rinsed and hung it out in their locked gear shack, and then would have it all set up on the boat for us the next morning. They did all the changing of tanks. We are not used to this kind of deluxe treatment on the boats we take in Southern California! Everyone we dealt with at BDS was friendly and supremely professional. And on top of this: at the end of our trip, when we went to collect our gear from their shop, we accidentally left our weight pouches. When I emailed them about it, they immediately found them and dropped them in the mail to us, no charge. Now that’s service!

Day One

Date: 6/30/07
Dive Location: Caye Chapel Canyon
Time In: 10:00 am
Bottom Time: 40 min.
Max Depth: 65
Vis: 80-100 ft
Surface Temp: 86
Temp at depth: 84
Comments: For our first dive in Belize, we headed out from BDS’s dock to Caye Chapel, which is just south, only about a ten-minute boat ride away. We were told we would be exploring finger canyons. There were only three other people on the boat with us – a young college student on his own, and couple, Rick & Pam, who apparently spend weeks on Caye Caulker every year and dive many days with BDS. I was a little surprised to see them diving in full 7-mil wetsuits with hoods and gloves! It made me a tad worried that the water wouldn’t be as warm as I was hoping. So I donned a 3-mil shorty, in case the waters were a bit colder.

Our DM for this dive was Eugene, an affable fellow who was always smiling. He gave us a thorough dive brief, and we got ready to roll. The trip down to Caye Chapel had been inside the reef, but the dive location is just outside it. Once we passed outside of the reef, the waves picked up quite a bit, making for a pretty rocky ride. So we wasted no time doing backrolls off the boat, and quickly descended.

Just as Eugene described, the topography was small finger canyons covered with coral and sponges, with sandy strips in between. Right away we saw the most enormous sea turtle I have EVER seen! He must have been five feet long. We got right up to him. His head was a big as a basketball, and he was so old he had barnacles growing on his back. Looking at his head gave me the impression of looking at a dinosaur. A little bit further on we saw another, smaller turtle.

We saw a number of colorful fish, including an interesting durgon, which is all black with a thin white line at the base of his fins, and he swims with his dorsal and anal fins kind of like a mola mola.

Eugene was a good DM leader. He stayed close to the student, and just kept his eye on us, letting Charlie and me pretty much do what we wanted. He would come back to us occasionally to ask about our air. Pam and Rick are clearly well known to BDS – I didn’t much see them until the end. It was nice to do a “resort-style”, DM-led dive where we weren’t herded like cattle and treated like babies. These guys seemed to take into account each diver’s experience level, and treated us accordingly. We liked that.

For our surface interval, they took the boat back inside the reef so it wouldn’t be so rocky. This was helpful, as I was starting to feel a wee bit queasy outside the reef. They passed around a container of very sweet watermelon.

Date: 6/30/07
Dive Location: Caye Chapel Canyon
Time In: 11:30 am
Bottom Time: 47 min.
Max Depth: 65
Vis: 60 ft
Surface Temp: 86
Temp at depth: 84
Comments: The site wasn’t too far away from the first one, so similar finger canyons. The vis was a little worse this time – there were more brownish-grey particulates in the water. This time I took the time to really look at the coral, which is abundant and really beautiful: huge elk horn, spiky staghorn & ivory bush, and tubular ivory tube coral. The scroll coral was particularly interesting, creating wild, strange shapes across wide ranges. There were enormous sea fans of varying colors and sizes. But the sponges were the most colorful of all. I loved the vivid purple vase sponges, and the HUGE bright barrel sponges, where you could often find arrow crabs and spindly little banded coral shrimps down inside. We saw a few more fish on this dive, including a four-foot grouper, bar jacks, four-eyed butterfly fish, sergeant majors, parrotfish, angelfish, blue chromis, and trunkfish.

For this dive, I decided to skip the wetsuit. The water was bathwater warm, and I cannot for the life of me get why Pam and Rick dive in full regalia! That’s what I wear for our dives at home in SoCal, where most of my recent dives have been in the 48-52 degree range. I guess they like to stay warm! Diving without a wetsuit was incredibly freeing. I felt like I was skinny-dipping or something. Charlie is doing better with his air consumption, but I am still coming up with 1200 psi each dive, to his 500 psi.

Initial impressions of Belize diving: the coral and sponges are spectacular! However, we were expecting more fish. Not that there weren’t any, but they were mostly onesies-twosies, not the big schools of colorful fish we were expecting, and definitely fewer than I saw on many of my dives in French Polynesia.
 
Day Two

Date: 6/31/07
Dive Location: Turneffe Islands – Mini Elbow
Time In: 11:30 am
Bottom Time: 45 min.
Max Depth: 72
Vis: 60-80 ft
Surface Temp: 84
Temp at depth: 82
Comments: It was a 45-minute boat ride out to the Northwest section of Turneffe Atoll. This boat ride was not inside the reef – for this one most of it was outside the reef, meaning much higher swells. Our boat captain, Minor (we’re told his name is actually “Major”, but everyone teases him by calling him Minor), did an amazing job of maneuvering the boat around the big swells. This was in contrast to the trip we took in December to Isla Del Cano, Costa Rica – that boat trip was in about the same size swells, but that captain flew the boat straight and full-throttle, pounding through the swells with bone-crushing intensity. Minor, on the other hand, would back off when a big swell was coming towards us, and turn slightly and maneuver the boat to reduce the pounding effect. It was still a rather rough ride, but far easier on the joints. I was happy I’d taken a Dramamine

This time the boat was packed with 18 customers and 4 crew. I was a bit concerned how they were going to be able to do a good job managing all these divers, but it turned out that several of them were snorkeling, and there were two DM’s on board so they split us up. It actually worked out pretty well! They dropped the snorkelers, along with a guide, off at a spot just inside the reef, and then exited the reef for us. The Dramamine helped a lot so I felt none of that nastiness from the rocky waves. Rick & Pam were there again, and they, along with a couple other divers, made up our group. Our DM was Ricardo. The rest of the divers were a group from Texas, and they were with the other DM. Our group quickly donned our gear and rolled in first, so we really didn’t feel any negative impact of having so many onboard.

This was a wall dive. We finned along the bottom at about 35’ to the wall, and then dropped over. The wall dropped off to maybe 150, to a sandy bottom off in the gloom. Once again we saw a large variety of coral and sponges, and the same type of fish as yesterday. This time there were more yellowtail snapper, some in small schools. Others we saw included yellow goatfish, yellow jacks, fairy basslet, and squirrelfish. The fairy basslets are very bright, purple in the front and orange on the rear. We particularly liked the squirrelfish – they are shy, but when you can get close to one, they have these enormous eyes and spikes along their backs.

We spent 20 minutes along the wall at about 70’, then moved back over the lip and did a leisurely exploration of the bottom at about 35’ for the rest of the dive.

After exiting the water, we headed back inside the reef, picked up the snorkelers, and anchored in a calm, shallow spot. Then came the big surprise – the lunch! WOW! I knew they were going to serve us food, but I couldn’t have imagined how delicious it would be. They gave us paper plates then passed around a big plastic container, which was still quite hot, of some of the best chicken I’ve ever had! They were big leg/thigh quarters, barbecued in some kind of amazing sweet/savory sauce. The meat was so tender it just fell off the bones. Along with the chicken was a huge container of traditional Belizean rice & stew beans, a yummy potato salad, and watermelon. There was far more food than any of us could eat. We learned that one of the owners, Dawn, made the chicken herself.

After eating, I jumped in the water for a little snorkeling. There wasn’t much to see at this shallow spot – some rocks, some dead coral, and a few fish.

Date: 7/01/07
Dive Location: Turneffe Islands – Sandy Lane
Time In: 1:30 pm
Bottom Time: 50 min.
Max Depth: 68
Vis: 40-60 ft
Surface Temp: 86
Temp at depth: 84

For the second dive we moved to a place called Sandy Lane. The vis had dropped a bit with the same particulates – this seems to happen as the day progresses. This looked much the same as the other spot – same type of wall, which was interesting, especially the way the brilliant sponges spike off it. We spent a little less time at depth, and a little more time on top of the reef. Charlie spotted a large, green moray eel behind a rock, and a couple of trumpet fish.

Ricardo was a good DM leader. There were more divers in our group, and we stayed a little closer together, but he pretty much left us to ourselves. Only comment is that Ricardo didn’t ask for people’s air level as much as Eugene did. That’s not an issue for Charlie and me, as we monitor our gas closely, but there were a couple of divers in our group that were relatively inexperienced so they might have benefited from a couple more checks. Just an observation.
 
Day Three

Date: 7/02/07
Dive Location: Hol Chan Marine Reserve – Tackle Box Canyon
Time In: 10:15 am
Bottom Time: 48 min.
Max Depth: 70
Vis: 40 ft
Surface Temp: 86
Temp at depth: 84
Comments: A 20-min. boat ride inside the reef was a nice break from yesterday. Hol Chan Marine Reserve is just off Ambergris Caye, north of Caye Caulker, so we got to see San Pedro from afar, anyway. Smaller crowd today – just a few people, including a couple of OW students so there was an instructor with them, and Ricardo was the DM for the rest of us.

Now THIS is what we were expecting from Belize diving! Again the dive site was just outside the reef, and the swells were high today and there was a bit of a surface current, so we dropped down right away and waited for the rest of our group to roll in and descend. The moment we got underwater we saw…sharks! LOTS of them! 5 to 6 foot nurse sharks were milling about beneath the boat at about 40’, in a sandy strip between a couple of finger canyons. There were also many huge, 4 to 5 ft groupers, who came right up to us. We watched them for a while as we waited for the rest, then headed off to the larger canyons, where we spent the majority of the dive.

This was the most physically beautiful dive we did in Belize, as far as topography goes: large outcroppings of the reef forming huge canyons, at the end of which was a sheer drop-off into gloom so deep I couldn’t see to the bottom. Just off one of the canyons we saw our first spotted eagle ray, undulating majestically. We swam over and down into several of these amazing canyons, seeing many of the same fish we’d seen earlier, but in much larger numbers, and many of them were much larger in size. Along the way we also saw an 8-foot moray eel, a sea turtle (smaller than the first), barracuda, and a couple of large lobsters. These lobsters look different from the spiny lobsters I hunt in Southern Cal – they were more green and mottled, and I spikier, I think.

There were also some interesting and strange-looking fish that we hadn’t seen at the other spots: scrawled filefish, and trunkfish. Both of these fish have odd-shaped bodies and very long tail fins.

Returning to the boat, we were treated to more of the sharks as we did our safety stop. Charlie is getting better and better with air – we started at 40 minutes at max 65, now he’s up to 48 minutes at 70, and we did a lot more finning on this dive. I came out with only 900 psi to his 500.

Surface interval in calm waters inside the reef; a container of some kind of citrus fruit was passed around.

Date: 7/02/07
Dive Location: Hol Chan Marine Reserve – Tackle Box Canyon
Time In: 12:20 pm
Bottom Time: 45 min.
Max Depth: 70
Vis: 40-60 ft
Surface Temp: 86
Temp at depth: 84
Comments: This was basically the same dive. Only difference was that we didn’t see a moray eel – but we saw everything else, including another eagle ray. We LOVED this dive spot! While the vis here isn’t quite as good as some of the other spots, there are just so many more fish to see, and the canyons are just gorgeous. And given that where we usually dive we’re ecstatic to get 15 ft vis, 40 ft is a treat!
 
Day Four

Date: 7/03/07
Dive Location: Lighthouse Reef – Blue Hole
I posted this dive report separately:
http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=194041

Date: 7/03/07
Dive Location: Lighthouse Reef – Half Moon Caye Wall
Time In: 11:10 am
Bottom Time: 48 min.
Max Depth: 58
Vis: 40-60 ft
Surface Temp: 86
Temp at depth: 84
Comments: We did the dives this day with a different dive op, AquaDive, because BDS doesn’t do the Blue Hole. It was a large boat, with many divers, so we had a group of about 15-18 people with two DM’s, one in front and one behind, and there was definitely more of a “herding” feel. We dropped down onto a sandy bottom, where we saw some enormous sting rays burying themselves in the sand. We finned over to a drop off. This was a GREAT dive along a wall! The wall dropped off so deep I couldn’t see the bottom. Once we passed over the lip, there was a huge diversity of fish, and here we saw many long, bright-yellow giant tube sponges jutting out from the coral. A sea turtle dove down to greet us. The coral and sponges here were bigger, wilder, and brighter than any other place we’d seen.

Spent the surface interval on Half Moon Caye – the boat dropped us off on a dock, and they served us a nice lunch on the few picnic tables they have there. The lunch consisted of much the same stuff that BDS served us, but I have to say that Dawn's chicken was FAR better. We walked along a nice long path into the woods, where there’s a platform that you can climb a ladder up to, and see the rare Red Footed Boobie Birds roosting in the treetops.

Date: 7/03/07
Dive Location: Lighthouse Reef – Eagle Ray Wall to Aquarium
Time In: 1:50 pm
Bottom Time: 51 min.
Max Depth: 57
Vis: 40 ft
Surface Temp: 86
Temp at depth: 84
Comments: Another wall dive with a very steep drop-off. Our DM brought along a small bag of leftover rice, and when he started letting it out, we were instantly surrounded by hundreds of fish! It was pretty fun, although apparently some divers in our group got spooked by it. I enjoyed it tremendously! These reefs again had the most diverse types, sizes, colors and shapes that we’ve seen. The entire dive we were escorted by this bizarre, 5-ft long slender silver fish called a tarpon, that looks similar to a barracuda but larger, and without the stripes or sharp teeth. He stayed either right in front of us, or just slightly off to the side, for the entire dive! There were canyons here too, which were truly beautiful, each one a new experience.
 
Day Five

Date: 7/04/07
Dive Location: Spanish Lookout Caye – Spanish Bay Wall
Time In: 10:50 am
Bottom Time: 53 min.
Max Depth: 76
Vis: 40 ft
Surface Temp: 86
Temp at depth: 84
Comments: This was a 55-minute boat ride south, mostly inside the barrier reef so it was relatively smooth. A few times, Minor took us through passages that ran right through the middle of islands, which was very fun and amazing to see.

We had a few more folks on the boat, so we split up into two groups again, and we had Eugene as our DM once again. This was a wall dive. We dropped to the 30 ft sand/reef bottom, finned across that for a while, then went over the lip to a nice sheer wall that went down to maybe 150 ft. We went a little deeper this time – 76 ft – and skirted along the wall. There weren’t as many fish here as Hol Chan or Lighthouse Reef, but it was an attractive wall.

Charlie’s SAC rate continues to improve – 53 min, with a 76 ft max depth! I came up with only about 700 psi.

Surface interval inside the reef, with Dawn's AMAZING chicken again! YAY! It was a hot day, well up into the 90’s, so after eating I spent most of the surface interval floating around in the water.

Date: 7/04/07
Dive Location: Spanish Lookout Caye – Spanish Bay Wall
Time In: 1:15 pm
Bottom Time: 55 min.
Max Depth: 66
Vis: 40 ft
Surface Temp: 86
Temp at depth: 84
Comments: Very similar to the previous dive, except that towards the end we saw three spotted eagle rays swimming in a pack. We swam along with them for quite some time – it was magical! We also saw another huge eel. If it hadn’t been for those, I’m not sure if we would have felt that it was worth the 55 min. boat trip out to Spanish Bay, given that it wasn’t all that different from some of the closer dive sites. But swimming with those rays was a wonderful way to end our dive trip.

Oh, and this time Charlie and I both came up with 500 psi! He has improved so much on this trip – his trim, his buoyancy, keeping his hands quiet and not sculling.

Can’t wait to go back to Belize!
 
I do all these dives every time I go to Belize (With BDS and crew) and felt like I was right down there with you! Great reports!
 
Why thank you! I write these up so I can go back and read them much later, and feel like I'm there all over again. :)
 
Thanks for the indepth report. We will be going to Belize for the first time this coming Jan 08. We are thinking of staying on Caye Chapel for a couple days and then Ambergris for the rest.
 
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