Beginner Questions

[mccabejc]

I've been doing surface photography for many years, and presently am using a digital Minolta Dimage camera to take mostly architectural and landscape photos.

Started diving earlier this year, and my next step is to do UW photography. My question involves what functional tradeoffs and changes will I be making when making the move to UW photography. Some things I've been considering:

Focusing will be more challenging, since your mask keeps you from getting real close to the viewfinder, and the autofocus probably doesn't work underwater??

The housing designs probably don't allow you to access ALL of the functions of the camera

Keeping the housing's lens cover clean and fog-free is probably a challenge

With gloves in cold water you're probably limited on your access to the camera controls, including manual focus ring, zoom, etc.?

I have a separate belt pack power supply for my camera, but I assume you're pretty limited on the use of these power supplies underwater

Are these legit, and are there any other major concerns I'll be dealing with? Thanks.

 

[chippy]

Focusing will be more challenging, since your mask keeps you from getting real close to the viewfinder, and the autofocus probably doesn't work underwater??

To some extent, yes - many housings have some type of viewfinder aid in the form of a diopter that helps. Autofocus works fine underwater, as the housing port creates an air gap between the front lens element and the water. Usual rules apply though - low light will cause the autofocus to hunt, just as it does above water.

The housing designs probably don't allow you to access ALL of the functions of the camera
It depends on the housing, mine has virtually all of the buttons and dials replicated on the housing.

Keeping the housing's lens cover clean and fog-free is probably a challenge
Not usually - plastic housings do tend to fog, but by using silca gel sachets this can be well controlled. Aluminium housings don't need anything, and I haven't had any fog at all so far.

With gloves in cold water you're probably limited on your access to the camera controls, including manual focus ring, zoom, etc.?
Again, it depends on the housing. The plastic manufacturs (not Ikelite) - Oly, canon, etc tend to have smaller buttons. An Ikelite housing or DSLR housings tend to have larger buttons and dials. I usually have no problem using 5mm gloves and manually focussing.

I have a separate belt pack power supply for my camera, but I assume you're pretty limited on the use of these power supplies underwater Not much chance of using this, but you'll probably run out of air or card storage before the standard batts die

 

[Ernesto]

I started playing with a digital camera underwater a few months ago so I can, at least, give you my thoughts on your questions.

Focusing underwater: My biggest problem. You're looking through your mask, and particulate matter in the water, the plastic housing and finally the camera view screen. On the up side with digital I'm not wasting film so I shoot a few exposures of every shot to help get lucky. Oh and I forgot to mention unless you kneel on the coral, not suggested!, any current or wave action moves you around a bit while you're trying to get some little fish to smile. Auto focus does work but again moving around a bit still messes with critical close-up focus.

Housing: Access to all the buttons. This will vary with housing. My little housing for my very amateur camera provides me with access to all the buttons. Quite amazing. The last pro shooter I talked to on a dive boat told me his high-end housing did not give him access to a couple of buttons -- so he had to pre-set those. (too many buttons?) Definitely a question to ask if there are housing options for your camera.

lens fogging/cleaning: I have not had any additional problems with this. Don't get moisture inside the housing when open. I store my housing with one of those little moisture withdrawing bags inside.

Gloves in cold water: I dive in British Columbia, Canada, so we wear cold water gloves all the time. The only problem I've had is trying to push the shutter button half way down to auto-focus. Sometimes it works sometimes I push too far. Again, at least I'm not wasting film.

Power supply: Can't help. I've never seen anybody use one underwater. That said there are underwater power supplies for lights, so it will again come back to whether the housing allows access.

have fun. I am really enjoying shooting bad pictures underwater!

 

[DBailey]

The only auto-focus problem that I have run into under water are the same ones that I have encountered on land. Trying to get a picture of the eel that is tucked away in a crack and the camera keeps focusing on the coral (since it is closer), is akin to trying to get a picture of a bird in a tree, but you keep auto-focusing on the leaves. Knowledge of your camera is the easiest work around for this (as you can normally force it to focus on a point that you choose).

Other than that, my other focus problems come from the lag between when you hit the button and when the picture is snapped. Once again, this is just like it is on land. Underwater you just need to plan your pictures and adjust your hovering, position, etc. The nice thing about being in the water is that you can work in all three dimensions and get the shot you want.

It depends on the housing as to whether you have access to all of the camera functions. My housing allows access to more functions than I currently need. Tying this into the glove comment, I just have to be more careful with the "thicker" fingers that the gloves give me. It is easier to hit two buttons at once.

Dried salt and the camera housing are mortal enemies. Just don't let the salt dry on the camera and be diligent with the cleaning of the housing. I have even used a large ziploc(tm) freezer bag and a bottle of water since we were shore diving and we didn't have a camera tank to rinse the camera.

To avoid fogging, seal the housing when in a cool environment (namely in an air conditioned room). Remember that fog forms on the warm side of the surface. The little gel packets that absorb moisture will help with any residual moisture that might be present. Do a search on moisture and you'll see the links.

For power, you just need to know your camera. I can use mine on two 50-minute dives without changing batteries. I turn off the view finder in between shots to help conserve the batteries.

 

[mjh]

Everyone has done a good job covering your issues. Would be helpful to know what kind of housing/camera you are leaning to. One issue, autofocus can be resolved with a quality focus light. I wear dry gloves and the only issue I have is a half press to check exposure. For power know your camera and have backup batteries. Again have to hammer on never touch, kneel or lay on the reef to get a shot.