battery change on suunto stinger

[peterbj7]

I now have the German tool, and last night I opened my Stinger. I removed the bezel, glass, and plastic display card. But then I stopped. I can't see how to get the "innards" out of the case. No amount of prying/levering/shaking budges it. I am wondering whether the two tiny screws that hold the plastic cover over the sensor need to be replaced...?

This is the first time I've tried to replace the battery myself, in the 12+ years I've had the computer. Last battery replacement was done at Dost Hill, and after I got it back found it no longer auto-started - an infernal nuisance, as I always forget to start it until I'm already down. I'm hoping the "reset" button will correct that. Unfortunately the manufacturer gives no instructions as they want guaranteed income for themselves and their agents.

 

[Shftrdog]

It is not difficult, just unscrew the bezal and take out the battery. Put a little lube on the o-ring, make sure you don't pinch it and screw the bezal back on

 

[Arturo]

I now have the German tool, and last night I opened my Stinger. I removed the bezel, glass, and plastic display card. But then I stopped. I can't see how to get the "innards" out of the case. No amount of prying/levering/shaking budges it. I am wondering whether the two tiny screws that hold the plastic cover over the sensor need to be replaced...?

This is the first time I've tried to replace the battery myself, in the 12+ years I've had the computer. Last battery replacement was done at Dost Hill, and after I got it back found it no longer auto-started - an infernal nuisance, as I always forget to start it until I'm already down. I'm hoping the "reset" button will correct that. Unfortunately the manufacturer gives no instructions as they want guaranteed income for themselves and their agents.

Nope. Leave those tiny screws alone. You don´t have to unscrew them to change the battery. Removing them will only expose the exterior surface of the pressure sensor. The "innards", or module, comes out (up, actually) just by persistent levering and prying. But after removing the display card and before you remove the "innards", you have to remove the sealing O ring that keeps the module in place. Use a pin for that purpose (there is a hole at 3 hours to insert the pin). After removing the O ring, levering to remove the module should be started with the same pin at a small dent in the module located at 12 hours. Most likely in your computer it has become kind of stiff with time, but that´s the way to remove it. Good luck and if you still can´t, I could try uploading some pictures taken by the same German company where you purchased the tool showing the process step by step.

 

[Martyn]

Good evening ladies and gentlemen,

I ordered the tool kit and replacement battery from Germany and successfully replaced the battery - I think. I don't have the apparatus to pressure test this but might be able to get some techy guys I know in our medical physics department to do so if they have the appropritate equipment.

In the meantime I have tried progressively increasing the stresses put upon the computer. First I touched the water sensor to find it went in to ACW mode. Following this it went into the shower with me for a few minutes. All OK. Now it has been sat in a glass of water so first time it has been fully immersed

I am checking every time for fogging over the glass front (trying to avoid flooding if it does go belly up).

The only observation I have about the replacement kit is that the new O-ring seems to be narrower (thinner) than the original. I have kept the original for now but am worried that this might become a problem.

Anyway - the main reason for this message is to the thank the guy who posted the original instructions.

 

[gytwypt]

I give you the Thank You ahead of time. I was figuring I'd see how far I could throw it the next time the battery gave out.

I know this is an old thread but these are my thoughts exactly. I have had this watch for over 12 years and I am sure I have done 3 replacements through Suunto and I think they where all over $100 by the time shipping was paid. So if it floods oh well I still have my Cobra 2

 

[goingonatrip]

I have just replaced the battery on my Suunto Stinger the way you outlined it, thank you very much.
Unfortunately I also have the ACW problem. How hard to you have to press the reset button, I pressed it a number of times but didn't see any reset of the time ...
I hope you can help.
Regards,
Paul

 

[Arturo]

I have just replaced the battery on my Suunto Stinger the way you outlined it, thank you very much.
Unfortunately I also have the ACW problem. How hard to you have to press the reset button, I pressed it a number of times but didn't see any reset of the time ...
I hope you can help.
Regards,
Paul

Goingonatrip: The first you have to do is slightly unscrew the ring of your Stinger using for that the same special tool you used to open it. A quarter of a turn (or maybe less), should eliminate the ACW from your display. If this happens, you have not solved the problem yet. You have just confirm the cause of the problem. You can not take the watch on a dive with the ring "slightly" loose because it would flood. If the ACW goes away, I think I can help you solve the cause of the problem.

 

[RBEmerson]

Goingonatrip: The first you have to do is slightly unscrew the ring of your Stinger using for that the same special tool you used to open it. A quarter of a turn (or maybe less), should eliminate the ACW from your display. If this happens, you have not solved the problem yet. You have just confirm the cause of the problem. You can not take the watch on a dive with the ring "slightly" loose because it would flood. If the ACW goes away, I think I can help you solve the cause of the problem.

Is there a fixed procedure for this or does it need real-time hand holding? I'm about to do the surgery before heading to the Bahamas. (Yeah, yeah, yeah - shoulda done it sooner)

 

[Arturo]

Sorry for the late answer. If unscrewing slightly the bezel removes the ACW legend, what you have to do to fix the problem is open it up again and inserting a tiny and thin plastic strip between the inner electrical conductor coming from the wet contact and the body of the Stinger. When you screw it back again, the thin plastic prevents the inner electrical contact touching the body and creating a "false" internal wet contact.

 

[RBEmerson]

Thanks! Mystery solved.