Batteries - are all brands created equal?

[oreocookie]

I just got my computer (Oceanic Veo 3.0) last month and will be going on my second trip with it soon. The trip leader is urging everybody to put a fresh battery in their computers, but since mine is basically new and the comp is supposed to retain calculations through a battery change, I figure I'll just get an extra for my save-a-dive kit. Now here's my question: The manual says the battery is a CR2450 (Panasonic or equivalent), but I'm pretty sure I remember reading on here about certain brands not working as well as others because of the way they deliver the juice. Should I look around for a panasonic replacement or would an Energizer or some brand I've never heard of for $6.49 at local electronics stores suffice?
Thanks

 

[fnfalman]

No, not all brands of batteries are created equal, especially for use in dive computers.

I tried some no-name brand batteries in my Aeris Elite T3 and the pressure transmitter. Didn't work. The signals couldn't transmit or receive, something was screwy with the unit and the transmitter until I slapped in some Panasonics and they were good to go.

There were several threads about batteries and dive computers. The more knowledgeable gearheads were talking something about certain el cheapo batteries may have the specified voltage but they don't have something that is required for use in dive computers.

I've been using brand name batteries the last two years: Energizer, Duracell, Panasonic, Sony, etc.

 

[300bar]

Nope, not all batteries a equal.

To keep it simple....
A PDC needs a High-Drain batterie, the elcheapo ones are mostly Low-Drain.
This has to do with the power use of the PDC,specialy at start up, all hell breaks lose for the batterie.
Testing the memory,setting altitude(Oceanic) and best of all the light comes on.
This all is on HIGH demand for the batterie. So make sure to buy a High-Drain quallity one.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

In addition to what's already been said...
I'd recommend sticking with a brand-name manufacturer.
For whatever reason, I seem to have the best luck with batteries made in Germany and Japan.
I have a preference for the batteries that list an expiration date on the outside of the retail packaging.

Feel free to try ordering various coin-style batteries on Ebay. I've had good luck (and saved money) by using some of the well-reviewed battery retailers.

Note that, even for the same nominal coin-battery size, certain batteries can be thicker/thinner than the average spec'd dimensions. It's very odd. I'm not sure if this is an issue with the battery manufacturing process, a problem with how dive computer/watch manufacturers are designing battery compartments, or a combination of the two. If a manufacturer specified using a certain brand of coin battery, I'd make every effort to comply with that recommendation.

Prior to battery installation, I would recommend testing the voltage of the replacement battery. I once identified a "dud," and I'd like to think that I saved myself some heartache by chucking it right away. YMMV.

 

[bleeb]

Note that, even for the same nominal coin-battery size, certain batteries can be thicker/thinner than the average spec'd dimensions. It's very odd. I'm not sure if this is an issue with the battery manufacturing process, a problem with how dive computer/watch manufacturers are designing battery compartments, or a combination of the two. If a manufacturer specified using a certain brand of coin battery, I'd make every effort to comply with that recommendation.

As a few threads have mentioned in the past, the actual size of each individual battery only matches the nominal specifications within a certain tolerance. It's possible the computer's battery compartment can't handle the full range of nominally allowable variations, or the battery varies more than supposedly allowable. People have reported issues with batteries that don't fit, or more problematically, don't always make reliable electrical contact. The few reports of problems seem to involve mainly generic, no-name or cheap knock-offs. IIRC Chinese batteries have been specifically questioned as possibly being involved in a few cases. As Bubble recommended, if the computer manufacturer specifically mentions a particular brand-name, you stand a better chance of avoiding unpleasant issues. If no brand of battery is specified, you're probably better off going with major brand names.

 

[GrumpyOldGuy]

I believe Oceanic recommends Panasonic and/or Sony batteries, I have been using Panasonic for some time in my VEO's.

If you dig for specifications from the battery manufactures, you will find these two have a 600-620 mAH rating. Many other CR2450 are rated for 500mAH, including Duracell. There is no standard for the "pulse duty" or "high drain" sometimes mentioned, but the overall mAH rating may be indicative of the battery quality. Since every time you change the battery you are risking a flood, might as well by the best quality batteries you can find.

 

[oreocookie]

Thanks for the responses. If I can find a Panasonic, I'll go with that, otherwise I'll pick up an Energizer (since the specs I just found on that show a 620mAh rating, same as the Panasonic) and hope for the best.

 

[keyshunter]

With the price of CR2450 batteries (Energizer is $3.47 at local Walmart), it is silly to look for el cheapos on the internet or elsewhere. I am currently using Energizers, but have had good luck with Radio Shack CR2450, which is a bit more expensive locally and is marked "Made in Japan". Although I have no evidence, I suspect that these are made either by Panasonic or Sony.

 

[miketsp]

Just one tip. You say you're taking a spare battery but have you made sure you know how to change it and will have the right tools. For a couple of years I carried in my kit a complete spare battery replacement kit for my Suunto (O-ring, lid, fixing clip and battery). Fortunately the first time I actually had to do it was at home - when I found I needed a small pin type tool or jewelers screwdriver to even start getting the strap off and then ideally another size to be able to turn the fixing clip.
Nowadays I carry the kit and the tools needed and I know I can do it in under 5 minutes even on a heaving dive boat. (I'm on my 4th battery)

 

[oreocookie]

thanks for the tip Mike, I'll look into that.