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I had pretty much the same list of wants with the exeption of the beaches bit and I ended up settling on Amed after a lot of online research.

I'll be diving pretty much everywhere from Amed and on this, my first trip to Bali, I'll be giving the NW a miss just due to what people are saying about it not being really worth relocating to.

Luko. That's a pretty impressive photo album you've got there, I've been through your Bali section a few times now and it's serving as an excellent reminder as to why I'm spending the better part of two days just to get there. I like the way you labelled everything so I know what I'm looking at because now I have a bunch of different species to learn about.
 
Luko. That's a pretty impressive photo album you've got there, I've been through your Bali section a few times now and it's serving as an excellent reminder as to why I'm spending the better part of two days just to get there. I like the way you labelled everything so I know what I'm looking at because now I have a bunch of different species to learn about.
Thanks, i'm happy it can help.
I try to get both species as well as locations right so you can see where to find them on a map too.
 
Thank you, Luko, for your advice, and for the fantastic Flickr albums. I will definitely give Tulamben more attention on my forthcoming trip. I'd been put off by Tulamben's cobbly beach and, more importantly, by Liberty Wreck's reputation for horrendous crowds of divers. Also, on our one day at Liberty, longshore currents were quite strong. We did not encounter that at either Jemeluk or Lipah Bay. On the week we were there last November, Lipah Bay was overcrowded with novice divers, but Jemeluk was not. Not trying to argue; just posting my experience.
 
I'd been put off by Tulamben's cobbly beach and, more importantly, by Liberty Wreck's reputation for horrendous crowds of divers.
That's why you need to stay in Tulamben to dive when Sanur or Amed divers are not on premises or when they're already gone back.
 
This is all superb advice: thank you all! And yes, I hear you matts1w: it's asking a lot. I try to aim high and then keep my expectations low. :wink:

Looks like I will do Nusa Penida on my own early on, leaving from Nusa Dua (I know, it's the resorty part), with Bali Scuba. It's a three-tank dive so hopefully will hit great coral as well as the pelagics. Can only cross fingers for mola mola. Geko just didn't have the trips on the right days (and they do just two dives usually rather than three) and getting to Lembongan was awkward.

Then to Telumben for the Liberty Wreck for sure, and one snorkeling friend is even going to do a Discovery Dive there! I'll try to do a night dive. And we'll get our white sand beaches by heading to the Gili Islands for a couple nights before going upland for the temples and yoga.

I also appreciate Warmwater Wank's tips about transport...I spend a lot of time in Latin America and understand how the tropical life is just more flexible than the temperate zone. :)

Thanks all for your input: this is a superb forum.
 
That's why you need to stay in Tulamben to dive when Sanur or Amed divers are not on premises or when they're already gone back.

Good advice! If you are staying in Tulamben, try and get in the water as early as possible. When we were there a few years ago, we would be in the water by 6:30. More bumpheads on the wreck than other divers at that time. As we would be getting out, the car park would be filling up with the divers on day trips. We would dive the wreck again after 16:00 when everyone had left again.

Then to Telumben for the Liberty Wreck for sure, and one snorkeling friend is even going to do a Discovery Dive there! I'll try to do a night dive. And we'll get our white sand beaches by heading to the Gili Islands for a couple nights before going upland for the temples and yoga.

The diving in the Gilis is OK. It is not the best diving in Indonesia and not worth going there specifically for the diving in my opinion. However, if you are there and are bored of lying on the beach, there is enough to see there. There is a lot of dead coral there but we saw lots of turtles (14 on a single dive) and a few sharks and rays. Good for snorkeling as well.
 
Just got back from Bali (my trip review is pending).

Agree that nusa penida is a must. Crystal Bay is a pretty reef, and we saw 1 mola mola on our dive there! Manta point was spectacular as well. Both were cold (70F); so be warned!

The liberty wreck is absolutely a must. It is just so unique of a dive.

IF you can squeeze one more day of diving in (on the way from Nusa Dua to Tulamben area); stop in Padangbai and try to dive Gili Biaha, Gili Mimpang and Gili tepekong (in that order). All are amazing islands just off of PB/candidasa area. They are tricky dives but sounds like you have the experience.

Gili Biaha has a cave at about 50 feet that is full of napping white tip reef sharks. Beyond that; the coral life and biodiversity is absolutely amazing on this dive. Same for the other two. Mimpang was better than tepekong for me (Dove both of them twice). Tepekong has much more evidence of damage from the recent storms in July. Regardless; both are amazing dives and potential sites for Mola Mola. IMO; these dives are a must as well.

Have fun!
 
Hummmm

The dive shop I'm going with, Adventure Divers doesn't list those sites (Gili Biaha, Gili Mimpang and Gili tepekong) as ones they visit. Here's hoping they can either take me there or find me someone who will.
 
Hummmm

The dive shop I'm going with, Adventure Divers doesn't list those sites (Gili Biaha, Gili Mimpang and Gili tepekong) as ones they visit. Here's hoping they can either take me there or find me someone who will.
Those are the "advanced sites" in the area and they require a boat from Padang Bai or Candi Dasa, I am not surprized dive centers from Amed don't list them. When diving these sites I prefer to go with local dive centers who are aware of the currents and local sea conditions.
What you can do is book a daytrip with a Padang Bai dive center (like gekodivers) and arrange with a driver to come early morning from Amed and take you back to your place after the diving, it takes about one hour drive from Amed.
 
Bali diving in a nutshell from my POV (10 times or so in Bali, first dives in 99 and returning every year since 2011 ongoing record...)
1- best corals : Nusa Penida : try Toyapakeh for instance, that said the Liberty Wreck in Tulamben is amazing for soft colorful corals (check my Flickr gallery). I prefer to get to Nusa Penida from Padang Bai with gekodivers
2- best macro by a mile : Tulamben with a good spotter. No brainer : stay at Liberty dive center they provide guide and nitrox for free. The liberty wreck is probably the best snorkeling site in Bali.
3- Mola mola chasing : stay in Padang Bai;
4- forget NW like Pemuteran and Menjangan, far away, second to everywhere else.
5- Amed is okayish when diving is only a second purpose. Most of Amed dive sites are mundane and populated with backpacker divers (Jemeluk bay is a hellhole for trucks unloading beginner divers). Japanese wreck is the best dive in Amed but you have to find the dive center that will take you there (30min drive from Amed village) and know how to dive it, The wreck is not interesting by itself unlike the Liberty, it's the coral garden in the back that is amazing.

I hate to admit it but Luko's advice is good. He himself is rather ugly (especially as compared to me) but in the end he gives good advice. I have dived a few times with Adventure Divers and I like them but you will get a LOT of daytrippers from south Bali in the mix.

I have dived the three Candidasa sites you mentioned with Geko several times and they are good. One of them has a cave of sharks, really cool!

Also I took some snorkeling friends to Nusa Penida with Geko and they said it was the best snorkeling they ever had, or some such, not sure how much they had snorkeled previously.

- Bill
 
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