Info Backscatter Hybrid Flash HF-01: preliminary review

[davehicks]

There is no on switch for the Nikon Nauticam flash trigger either. I had no idea that was a thing. I suspect that the hotshoe being energized is the "On" switch.

 

[stuartv]

There is no on switch for the Nikon Nauticam flash trigger either. I had no idea that was a thing. I suspect that the hotshoe being energized is the "On" switch.

Well, then, I don't know what trigger she has. Maybe it's an S-Turtle or whatever those are called. My UW Technic has no On/Off switch.

 

[hellhole]

checking with guys shooting on sony system ( a7r4 specificlly), are you able to do HSS with the strobe?
with the nauticam trigger or any other trigger..

 

[stuartv]

checking with guys shooting on sony system ( a7r4 specificlly), are you able to do HSS with the strobe?
with the nauticam trigger or any other trigger..

I have an a7r4 but I haven't tried them at all yet, much less specifically HSS. I get to start shooting mine Friday (weather permitting).

 

[WS007]

Well, then, I don't know what trigger she has. Maybe it's an S-Turtle or whatever those are called. My UW Technic has no On/Off switch.

I have A7R5/Nauticam with Nauticam and also s-Turtle triggers. Both triggers have an "ON/OFF" switch...

I do not regard this switch to be a problem. I always make a test shot (with flash) on the surface, just after assembling my rig. If I would not do so, I would have run into problems already many times for a lot of different reasons, not only because of this switch (I did forget to switch the trigger on, I even forgot to insert the trigger when assembling the rig, but other personal mistakes did occur more often)...

=> Nothing can replace a test shot on the surface after assembly, it saved me numerous dives so far...

Wolfgang

 

[Barmaglot]

=> Nothing can replace a test shot on the surface after assembly, it saved me numerous dives so far...

This. Always, always take a test shot after sealing the housing and confirming seals via vacuum.

 

[stuartv]

Scuba diving has a long list of "Always Do's".

I don't know about y'all, but I cannot say that I have ALWAYS checked every box on the Always Do list every time. Sometimes, shtuff happens.

A trigger that does not add one more box to my Always Do check list is appreciated. If I don't turn it on for some reason, there is a good chance that that AND "test shot" are both going to be Always Do items that I don't do that time.

 

[Barmaglot]

Yeah, but a test shot is a trivial thing that catches a lot of potential problems. You may have forgotten to take off the lens cap, or attach the trigger shoe (I've done that once), one or more batteries may be discharged/flat and require charging/replacement, some part may have failed, hell, one may have forgotten to put the camera into the housing in the first place. Vacuum green + test shot where you can see the strobes reflecting off a wall nearly guarantee that your camera will perform properly on the next dive, and if either of those checks fail, that's a sign to investigate.

 

[WS007]

Today I had a chance to submerge my new HF-1s...
Just in a local gravelpond. It was cloudy and rather dark and due to recent rainfall (and algae) visibility was 2m - 3m. The dive served to test #1.: the new HF-1s (with standard diffusers), #2.: Canon 8-15mm f/4 fisheye lens with the 2x Kenko HD Pro TC (behind Nauticam 140mm domeport) and #3.: test my self repaired drysuit (better not ask for the outcome! )...

As conditions were really bad, I cannot say much about the HF-1s. I noticed that they are big and heavy (so far, I used Sea&Sea YS-D2 and Inon Z330). As I was using the fisheye lens, I had to pull them quite far back in order to not get too much backscatter in these cloudy waters . This resulted in a quite rear-heavy rig that was not comfortable to drag through the water (some flotation, directly on the flash, would be nice).
The light cable connection is Sea&Sea type, but the plugs fit quite loosely into the holes on the HF-1s. As a result I noticed several times that one flash was not firing because the plug had slipped out from its hole. I have several cables here and will dry to find one that may fit more stringend...
Apart from this, the flashes worked fine (manual mode, single exposures). After about 1 h diving (and infrequent using of the camera, due to rarely occuring motifs) the batteries still had approx. 80%..


With the standard diffusers, and after WB the region illuminated by the flashes, the green water comes out, more or less, as it should (as soon as I have them here, I will use the next warmer diffuser types to see whether the water color looks better then):

Sony A7R5; Canon 8-15mm & Kenko 2x TC; @30mm; ISO 400; f/13; 1/250s; 2* HF-1:

Here another photo of a catfish (Silurus glanis) that disapperaed as suddenly as it appeared (no chance to adjust the camera or framing):

Sony A7R5; Canon 8-15mm & Kenko 2x TC; @30mm; ISO 400; f/11; 1/100s; 2* HF-1:

In summary I can say that the flashes are o.k. and I am looking forward to dry the different diffusers/domes for different water conditions and also utilize the enormous power in clear waters...


Wolfgang

 

[ReadyDiverOne]

Yeah, this is my only concern about getting these—weight. Per the Backscatter website, with batteries and ball attachment, each strobe weighs 1100 grams in air. Compare that to the YA-D2s which, with batteries and ball attachment, weigh 780 grams or so. So 2 of these new flashes you’re talking more than 600 grams heavier. But, since I’ll be losing 2 Kraken 5000s, which together weigh about 1150, if I get these I’ll come out ahead (about 500 grams lighter) and with less stuff on the rig, less stuff to pack, 2 fewer chargers to carry. Seems like a good trade to me.