Automotive finish on regs

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mksmith713

Contributor
Messages
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Location
Jupiter,Fl
# of dives
I just don't log dives
Has anyone ever considered tricking out their regs with an automotive finish?

I have some older all metal regs and was wondering if it's been done or if it's contraindicated because of the effects of salt water on the clear coat?

Sure seems like a nice idea to dress up old metal regs.
 
What happens when the paint flakes off and you inhale the particles into your lungs? Are any automotive finishes free from toxins that would leach into the airstream? Not many paints were designed with breathing passages in mind. I'm not sure I would want anything applied to my reg that could potentially separate from the reg and end up in my lungs.
 
Maybe if you just paint the outside!
 
I'm not sure I'd have the breathing passage painted.
I was thinking more of the front outside portion.
I would think that a nice clear coat or clear epoxy finish would hold up and prevent the paint from peeling or flaking.

(Mental image) front metal rings of old SP 108's or 109's or perhaps the old Dacor or USD Calypso regs.

Just an idea.
 
Heck, maybe even strip off the chrome and polish the brass and clear coat the polished brass.
Now that would look SWEET....
 
You have several choices:

A) Powder Coat

B) Re-chrome the regulator

C) Gold plate it

I doubt the automotive paint would hold up to the rigors of diving, just based on my experience with such things. BTW, cured paint will not hurt your lungs. Uncured paint with isocyanates (most two part urethane etc) might just kill you. You are supposed to use a forced air breathing system with such materials.

N
 
Re-finishing a classic regulator like a double hose, by re-chroming (or even powder coating it), is commonly done. It is kind of like refinishing and restoring a classic car.

In the single hose category, the Scubapro 109 is IMHO starting to reach a classic status deserving of a full refinishing treatments. Until recently there inexpensive availability on eBay (of reasonably good units at reasonable prices) made the re-finishing cost not worth it, but with there rising cost it seems that re-chroming will be a reasonable alternative.

As we speak (or should I say write) I am having some 109 being re-chromed in part to see what kind of results we get. I will keep you all posted.

BTW, some of the new re-chroming processes are expected to be much more durable that the original factory chrome. If a reasonable supply of rubber parts is secured, we could see Scubapro 109 being handed down for some generations…kind of like double hose regulators.
 
What an interesting idea. With so many people buying based on 'how do I look in this?' You may have just found the next hot item for 2009...or not..predicting market trends is such a pain.
 
There was a fad a few years ago where the trickier cars were painted in a color changing paint.
That might be a cool idea.
More or less for conversation piece while sitting around the dive shop having a beer after a two tanker.
 
Re-finishing a classic regulator like a double hose, by re-chroming (or even powder coating it), is commonly done. It is kind of like refinishing and restoring a classic car.

In the single hose category, the Scubapro 109 is IMHO starting to reach a classic status deserving of a full refinishing treatments. Until recently there inexpensive availability on eBay (of reasonably good units at reasonable prices) made the re-finishing cost not worth it, but with there rising cost it seems that re-chroming will be a reasonable alternative.

As we speak (or should I say write) I am having some 109 being re-chromed in part to see what kind of results we get. I will keep you all posted.

BTW, some of the new re-chroming processes are expected to be much more durable that the original factory chrome. If a reasonable supply of rubber parts is secured, we could see Scubapro 109 being handed down for some generations…kind of like double hose regulators.

I am really, really interested in hearing how the rechroming works. Are you going to rechrome the main body (especially interested in the inlet tube) and all that as well, or just the cover?

If it works I would rechrome my inlet tubes from my Apeks TX50's. I wonder if it would mess up the threads in any way.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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