Attaching HP and LP Hoses

[Derek S]

Jonnythan - A cheater bar can also be called a "breaker" bar. The school of thought is to "break" the offending connection (usually a bolt from a nut or the like). Just like some people call "soda" a "pop" and vice versa.

It should also be stated that Scubapro uses proprietary connections on their hoses that come from the factory, and a special wrench needs to be used to get the connection free (which I've heard SP will gladly sell to people for $80).

My dive buddy just so happens to have said tool, so I was able to attach my long and short hoses to my 2nd stages. If not, I could have taken it to my LDS (and been yelled at for not buying the hoses there even though they didn't have them in stock when I bought them originally and did buy them from another LDS, not online)

 

[Derek S]

I have to say that I've yet to see my LDS use a torque wrench on any hoses that they've worked on. Doesn't mean they don't use them, I just have never seen them, and I've seen them working on a lot of 1st stages/regs lately.

 

[redacted]

Jonnythan - A cheater bar can also be called a "breaker" bar. The school of thought is to "break" the offending connection (usually a bolt from a nut or the like). Just like some people call "soda" a "pop" and vice versa.

It should also be stated that Scubapro uses proprietary connections on their hoses that come from the factory, and a special wrench needs to be used to get the connection free (which I've heard SP will gladly sell to people for $80).

My dive buddy just so happens to have said tool, so I was able to attach my long and short hoses to my 2nd stages. If not, I could have taken it to my LDS (and been yelled at for not buying the hoses there even though they didn't have them in stock when I bought them originally and did buy them from another LDS, not online)

Craftsman pliers with the "soft jaw" attachments work quite well. Regular pliers with a carefully placed rag will do the trick also. For $80.00, you can buy another high performance regulator with gauges if you shop carefully.

 

[pete340]

I have to say that I've yet to see my LDS use a torque wrench on any hoses that they've worked on.

In this case, torque specifications are for ham-fisted mechanics, so they're less likely to break things. Good mechanics have a well-developed sense of touch, and can tighten things without breaking them.

 

[cool_hardware52]

4 foot lead pipe over the end of a 1 foot socket wrench.

Jonnythan, Real lead pipe kinda rare these days, and it bends pretty easy, not my first choice for increasing the turning moment

Jokes aside, how are you mending?

Tobin

 

[cool_hardware52]

Geez, I can even take a piece of paper, feel of it and tell you how thick it is, give or take .0015 inches.

How often do you have to get that "digital micrometer" of yours calibrated?



Tobin

 

[jonnythan]

Jonnythan, Real lead pipe kinda rare these days, and it bends pretty easy, not my first choice for increasing the turning moment

Jokes aside, how are you mending?

Tobin

Better than I thought. I have maybe 75% of the range of motion in my shoulder back, and can carry things weighing maybe 6 pounds with no pain at all. I have had this weird popping feeling when I move it a certain way for a day or two, hope that goes away See the doc again March 4, 5 weeks after the injury.

Thanks for asking.

 

[The Kraken]

My digital micrometers, along with my mechanical micrometers, are calibrated annually to a set of Starrett-Webber Lab. Master gage blocks.

My "calibrated" fingers have won me numerous beers in bars all across the country. I calibrate them at least once a year to a red hair.

The only thing I bet on is a sure thing, then it's not a bet, it's an investment.

 

[matt_unique]

DO NOT DO THIS. You do NOT want to screw in your hoses "good and tight."

That's a good way to mangle your o-ring. It's the O-ring that provides the seal, not the 'tightness' of the connection. You can use a torque wrench to get the right torque, or you can simply tighten them finger tight and use a wrench to give them an additional eighth of a turn or so. But the last thing you want to do is screw them in "good and tight."

I never thought I would ever say this but Boogie is right on the money. Hand tight then just a *bit* more with a wrench. It is quite easy to shear the end of a hose right off into your first stage if you tighten too much.

--Matt

 

[O2BBubbleFree]

Its a bar you place over the end of the wrench or ratchet to make it longer so you can apply more force or leverage. Not recommended for reg hose replacement as earlier stated

I found an 20" Crescent-brand adjustable wrench that had been broken right at the base of the handle, and welded back together.

How long do you think that cheater bar was??