Atomic Cobalt 2 malfunction

[alldav]

I recently upgraded to an Atomic Cobalt 2 (due to problems with my Atomic Cobalt 1) and after only 8 logged dives on the new computer after 2 morning dives my computer went completely blank (as though the battery power had died). Pushing the buttons didn't get any response. After each dive I had rinsed the computer with fresh water because I know the magnets under the buttons are prone to rusting and that is bad news quick. The computer did not get hit, dropped, or anything else. Jumping into the water also did not activate the computer, it is effectively dead. Upon soaking the computer in fresh water for 30 minutes, I plugged it in and it still has absolutely no response. Prior to starting my dive day the computer was charged at 90%... This is absolutely baffling and so terribly disappointing as it was brand new and Atomics had given me an Atomic Cobalt 2 due to huge problems with Atomic Cobalt 1, which I will describe in a moment. This is a huge inconvenience as I am a scuba instructor in Saudi Arabia, as sending this to the manufacture I do from the States, which is not very often....and I had gone so much efforts to get the Cobalt 1 servided.

My Atomic Cobalt 1 was not one of the recalled lot numbers. When diving with the Cobalt 1, it started indicating my air was 0, then it would vascilate between different readings none of which indicated any consistency or made any sense. Also, the same dive (at the same time) it started giving erroneous depths that were over 20 meters deeper than actuality. My backup computer, a reliable Mares Matrix, proved itself once again...but it doesn't give me air...I was dependent on the Cobalt for that so clearly I was SOL of that. Atomic did have me send in the Cobalt 1, and they were generous to upgrade me to the Cobalt 2 at my request. i thought I was out of the woods, the Atomic 2 addressed the shortcomings of the Cobalt 1 right? Well, 8 dives it lasted me and less than 1.5 months and again I am out my primary computer.

I ask the dive community What good is a beautiful display with easy to use interface that's reliability is frustrating, irritating, and compromising of safety. Now I have a beautiful new dead computer that I am afraid may have somehow flooded the battery or the buttons or both. Yes, it is under warranty, but this is a huge inconvenience when I don't even live in USA. Hopefully someone out there has a magical idea that fixes my problem, but I am seriously not trustful of my Cobalt 2, or the Cobalt line after my experiences. Please help

 

[san diego diver]

The atomic cobalt 2 is a really pretty computer.
to bad pretty isn't what we need to give life support info on dives.
I know Atomics helped you out and gave you the Cobalt 2 when the bran new Cobalt 1 froze up at depth (while you were in deco !) .
To bad the "upgrade" only lasted 8 dives before dying.
I hope you can get the issue resolved.

 

[deeper thoughts]

We own 2 cobalt 2 comps. They have worked perfectly except for the water temp and that is another story altogether

 

[Dr. Lecter]

If you can't handle basic service issues without throwing a temper tantrum because of your location, you probably need a computer that can be serviced closer.

 

[RonR]

Sorry you are having this problem. Many of the Cobalt 1 issues, like rusting buttons, are fixed in the Cobalt 2. From what you describe of your Cobalt 1 it sounds like it leaked. I can't say for sure what you are experiencing with the Cobalt 2 from your description, but I will try to help you get it resolved without needing to send your Cobalt away.

I'm assuming you have tried a reset after charging- by holding down the SELECT and BACK buttons for 11 seconds or more?

Do you know what firmware version you were running? Have you tried connecting the Cobalt to a desktop/ laptop computer to update the firmware? That would tell us if the Cobalt is running internally in boot mode, with a blank display. If it is, when you connect with USB you would see it appear on your desktop (after a few seconds) as "BOOTLOADER". If you see this, you can go ahead and update the firmware using the instructions on the Atomic site. Atomic Aquatics Cobalt Software The Cobalt should come up after the firmware update.

If the Cobalt goes blank midstream it is almost certainly due to a loss of power, the question is why. I am sending you a PM with instructions on removing and checking the battery connection. Other possibilities would be a failed battery or a failed display- neither of these are very likely, but I mention them as things that might explain a sudden loss of display.

Let me know how this goes, and we will keep going until your Cobalt is functional again.

Ron

 

[amtaguirre]

I use the SUUNTO D9 TX and I've had no problems with it and would highly recommend it. I would also recommend diving with a second computer it doesn't have to be anything fancy but just as a backup maybe even the BUD.

 

[sincity]

I use the SUUNTO D9 TX and I've had no problems with it and would highly recommend it. I would also recommend diving with a second computer it doesn't have to be anything fancy but just as a backup maybe even the BUD.

Do you really want to go there?, Google suunto d9 issue's and see how many pages you get, from what I've read just about every computor manufacturer has had a problem at one time or another. My cobalt 2 has 50 dives on it and has been perfect, not to mention the fact that RonR will help you resolve all cobalt problems. ALLDAV hang in there and work with Ron, he will help
Sin City

 

[amtaguirre]

I've had no issues with my SUUNTO D9 TX and have had it down to 180ft and over 200 hours on it, again with no issues. I now dive a Rebreather and take it with me as a back up depth gauge. I continue to be very happy with its reliability and accuracy. I'm on my second battery too.

 

[alldav]

Ron, I appreciate your input. Few updates: I have been in communication with Adan at Atomics and he has been giving me ideas. After my diving weekend before, it was holding down of the "select" and "back" button that got the Atomic to power up again (when connected via power AC adapter). So it charged to 100% again. I subsequently went diving again this past weekend, and Adan had me keep track that on days not used it lost 1-2 % power/day (nondiving days); after each dive it went down by ~4%. Reasonable. I finished my 3 dives and it had between 81-84% of the battery life remaining so I did not recharge it before next day of again 3 days of diving. In the morning, I went to hook up my reg to tank, and was surprised to find it as before dead at 0%. This time it turned on with only the "select" button when plugged into the wall. It seems it is having trouble holding battery once it gets below a certain threshold of ~80%? Do you think I just got a defective battery. I think it is clear no water got into the unit or it wouldn't work at all.
Do you still think that updating the firmware is necessary? I would go home and do it right now, but unfortunately my labtop is misbehaving with a bad harddrive so it is a lot more complicated than that as I am quite technologically challenged at the moment.
To the other bloggers, this is an Atomic thread, I was happy to get rid of my Suunto finally because it is very difficult to navigate the screens (not user friendly) and extremely conservative. One of the cool things about Cobalt is you can set your degree of conservatism (3 available options) and tailor it to the diver (age, activity level etc) which is awesome and amazing and easy to use when the battery agrees to keep its charge. But I do need a computer battery that can last for multiple dive days without recharging.

 

[RonR]

Ron, I appreciate your input. Few updates: <snip>

I agree, there doesn't seem to be any problem such as a leak that could be causing this, since the Cobalt seems to be working fine if you have battery power. A defective battery with some kind of intermittent internal short is a possibility, and the battery is very easy to change. Maybe Adan can see about sending you a spare battery, just in case. Your power consumption of 1-2% per day in sleep, and a few more % on diving days is about what would be expected. The display uses about half the power, so brightness setting has a big influence. Let me try to work through some questions.

How are you storing the Cobalt? Are you possibly leaving the charging adapter in place? Or is it in any kind or rinse tank? When two of the contacts on the Cobalt are bridged or wet, that leaves it thinking it is in water and might dive. Even if the screen is dark it is in a "standby" mode, it will use power more rapidly. It should still take several days to drain completely, though, so I doubt this is the explanation. What I understand is that you had this power loss just overnight. Going from 80% to 0% overnight is more power than the Cobalt should be capable of consuming- which does tend to lead back to the battery.

When you plugged in the Cobalt to the wall charger, did the battery initially display as 0% in the Main Menu? And did it charge in about two hours?

What firmware version do you have? We can't rule out the possibility that there is something in a particular firmware version that is causing this issue- I doubt it, but it's something we should look at. Updating the firmware is a good idea for many reasons, if you can find a way to do it. You don't need to install any program on the computer you do it with, just to be able to connect to USB- it's basically like copying files to a thumb drive. You don't want to do it on a computer that will stop working midstream, though. Newer firmware versions have more diagnostics, so if you have a more recent version we may be better able to troubleshoot.

I will PM you with some more detailed instructions for accessing a battery diagnostic screen and getting into the Cobalt's diagnostic mode. It would be helpful to get pictures of this screen both in "normal" operation and if you experience this kind of power loss again.

I appreciate your providing detailed information- hang in there and we will work to figure out what is happening.

Ron