assembly of regulator
- Thread starter arnied
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The recommendation that you will get is to take it to the LDS and ask them to assemble it and test its functionality. They may or may not charge a nominal fee for doing so, but this is a good way to start a relationship with them even if you didn't patronize them originally.
However, the easy answer is this: no there is no secret to assembling it yourself,it's pretty dummy proof as the second stages only fit in one port and the console in another (providing that it has a hose connected to it vs. hoseless). The hose connectors are different sizes.
I strongly recommend taking it in or finding someone more experience that you can trust sit down and walk you through it and help you assemble it.
However, the easy answer is this: no there is no secret to assembling it yourself,it's pretty dummy proof as the second stages only fit in one port and the console in another (providing that it has a hose connected to it vs. hoseless). The hose connectors are different sizes.
I strongly recommend taking it in or finding someone more experience that you can trust sit down and walk you through it and help you assemble it.
Stone
Contributor
arnied,
As jmsdiver says, there's no secret to screwing the hoses in, but
normally, your 2nd stages are "tuned" to work with the Intermediate Pressure delivered by a particular 1st stage. Even if you buy ScubaPro 2nds and a ScubaPro 1st, you are not guaranteed that they will work together optimally. A tendancy to free-flow would be obvious to you, but an increased Work of Breathing (WOB) might not. If your LDS services regs (and they have the right gauges) they should be able the check to see if the "cracking pressure" is within spec in a couple of minutes. If they have a flow bench, they can do an even better checkout.
As jmsdiver says, there's no secret to screwing the hoses in, but
normally, your 2nd stages are "tuned" to work with the Intermediate Pressure delivered by a particular 1st stage. Even if you buy ScubaPro 2nds and a ScubaPro 1st, you are not guaranteed that they will work together optimally. A tendancy to free-flow would be obvious to you, but an increased Work of Breathing (WOB) might not. If your LDS services regs (and they have the right gauges) they should be able the check to see if the "cracking pressure" is within spec in a couple of minutes. If they have a flow bench, they can do an even better checkout.
Armied, you will need a small crescent wrench and some soapy water. Remove the plug on the regulator first stage marked "HP". Attach the console hose end to the hole marked "HP". Screw it in by hand and snug with the wrench, just snug so it won't back out. There may be a hose protector which needs to be moved over the hose end and next to the regulator body. This looks like a rubber tube about three inches long. If it is difficult to move, lubricate with soapy water. Do this in such a way as not to get any water into the regulator port or hose end. Some people grease the threads and O ring with a small amount of silicone or krytox. This is not absolutely necessary, but recommended.
Repeat the process with the regulator second stage. This time, insert the hose end into the port marked "LP" or "reg". Look at the angle of each of the ports and decide which is positioned correctly for your needs. Occasionally, a reg hose end will be oversized. This is intended to be inserted into a special "dedicated" regulator port. Otherwise, an adapter would be needed. This is fairly rare. The standard size for HP fittings is 7/16", for LP it is 3/8".
Chances are everything will work fine. However, if the pieces are of different brands there is a small possibility of a freeflow or chattering with one or both or the second stages.
If the octopus is a bit harder to "breath", that is normal. You can test the sensitivity of the reg second stages by inverting them, mouthpiece up, and submerging in a bucket of water. If the reg freeflows at a depth of 1-2 inches of water that is about right for sensitivity of a typical second stage. If it has one, switch the Viva lever to "dive", and adjust the tuning knob all the way out before performing the test.
Repeat the process with the regulator second stage. This time, insert the hose end into the port marked "LP" or "reg". Look at the angle of each of the ports and decide which is positioned correctly for your needs. Occasionally, a reg hose end will be oversized. This is intended to be inserted into a special "dedicated" regulator port. Otherwise, an adapter would be needed. This is fairly rare. The standard size for HP fittings is 7/16", for LP it is 3/8".
Chances are everything will work fine. However, if the pieces are of different brands there is a small possibility of a freeflow or chattering with one or both or the second stages.
If the octopus is a bit harder to "breath", that is normal. You can test the sensitivity of the reg second stages by inverting them, mouthpiece up, and submerging in a bucket of water. If the reg freeflows at a depth of 1-2 inches of water that is about right for sensitivity of a typical second stage. If it has one, switch the Viva lever to "dive", and adjust the tuning knob all the way out before performing the test.
buff
Contributor
I found that using a crecent wrench didn't work on my first stage(Poseidon) and instead I used a bicycle flat wrench. It worked much better and I bet you can get a flat wrench at an auto parts store for almost nothing.
I eschew(that's the first time I have ever used that word-it sounds so smart) hose protectors-just another thing to cover up what's wrong with something. Where divers usually put hose protectors on is the spot on the hose where there is the most torque. If a hose protector is on then you can't see the cracking or breaking of the hose-but if U/W and the hose blows you'll know there's something wrong.
And don't put too much torque on the tightening of the hose. The O ring is what is going to create the seal for you.
It's easy to do. And you'll have more confidence in yourself and know how to do it in a pinch.
Mike
I eschew(that's the first time I have ever used that word-it sounds so smart) hose protectors-just another thing to cover up what's wrong with something. Where divers usually put hose protectors on is the spot on the hose where there is the most torque. If a hose protector is on then you can't see the cracking or breaking of the hose-but if U/W and the hose blows you'll know there's something wrong.
And don't put too much torque on the tightening of the hose. The O ring is what is going to create the seal for you.
It's easy to do. And you'll have more confidence in yourself and know how to do it in a pinch.
Mike
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