Assembling regs

[Bubbletrubble]

I don't have a torque wrench. I just figured I'd make them tight like a drysuit hose. If it is needed - where is a good place to get one? Is it 40 in lbs on both fittings?

Torque specs (according to the Apeks manual that I have):
Heat exchanger nut tightened onto the second stage case = 45 ± 2 in lbs
LP hose to Heat exchanger nut = 40 ± 2 in lbs
LP hose to first stage = a smidge more than hand-tight (I couldn't find this spec in either 1st or 2nd stage Apeks manual.)

 

[hypertech]

Got the trilolube and the multitool. Thanks for all the help.

 

[scubafanatic]

I agree with what the others are saying.
thin wrench = cone wrench (bike shop) = tappet wrench
You'll probably need a 11/16-inch open-ended thin wrench. You can use an adjustable wrench on the miflex hose nut and the thin wrench on the Apeks heat exchanger nut. Tighten just barely more than hand-tight (just like LeadTurn_SD said).

I bought this set of thin wrenches.

um, I haven't had good experiences with the innovative scuba ones, they rust easily, they were included in a cheapo Trident branded save-a-dive kit of assorted tools/picks/pliers/etc. While the entire kit was inexpensive, I have found it's inexpensive for a reason, the tools are very rust prone and are pretty much ruined on only one short dive trip, they should be embarassed to even sell such a cheezy kit! I'm looking for real chrome vanadium tools suitable for salt water exposure!

 

[hypertech]

Right now, I do most of my diving in fresh and the suggested tool kit was at the LDS and worked great. Everything is put together and I'm all set to try out my new long hose!

I also ordered a Dive Rite IP gauge and checked that. I'm reading just under 140 psi. My understanding is that that is just about perfect.

Now to get my tanks filled and go dive on Sunday!

I can't say thanks enough to all the people who helped me get all the details worked out.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

um, I haven't had good experiences with the innovative scuba ones, they rust easily, they were included in a cheapo Trident branded save-a-dive kit of assorted tools/picks/pliers/etc. While the entire kit was inexpensive, I have found it's inexpensive for a reason, the tools are very rust prone and are pretty much ruined on only one short dive trip, they should be embarassed to even sell such a cheezy kit! I'm looking for real chrome vanadium tools suitable for salt water exposure!

@scubafanatic: How often are you using your tools when you go diving? It's a pretty rare occasion when I have to mess around with my tools at a dive site. I do all of my repairs at home (which, I admit, is only one mile away from the local dive site). I don't do too many boat dives nowadays. When I do, I just bring an extra regulator setup. Any problems with my reg...and I swap out the entire thing.

I have a slightly rusted scubatool (Trident brand?) that I've had for about a decade. It works but it takes a little swearing to change the setting on the integrated adjustable wrench. I can understand the concern about corrosion-prone tools, though.

The set of thin wrenches that I bought was cheap and lightweight. Personally, I don't want to be carrying around a heavy set of more expensive chrome vanadium tools. I have no idea if the cheapo wrenches are going to rust easily. Only time will tell.

I got a set of nickel-plated hex keys (SAE and metric) from McMaster-Carr. Those should be pretty corrosion-resistant. I figure I'll probably end up using those more often anyway.

 

[scubafanatic]

@scubafanatic: How often are you using your tools when you go diving? It's a pretty rare occasion when I have to mess around with my tools at a dive site. I do all of my repairs at home (which, I admit, is only one mile away from the local dive site). I don't do too many boat dives nowadays. When I do, I just bring an extra regulator setup. Any problems with my reg...and I swap out the entire thing.

I have a slightly rusted scubatool (Trident brand?) that I've had for about a decade. It works but it takes a little swearing to change the setting on the integrated adjustable wrench. I can understand the concern about corrosion-prone tools, though.

The set of thin wrenches that I bought was cheap and lightweight. Personally, I don't want to be carrying around a heavy set of more expensive chrome vanadium tools. I have no idea if the cheapo wrenches are going to rust easily. Only time will tell.

I got a set of nickel-plated hex keys (SAE and metric) from McMaster-Carr. Those should be pretty corrosion-resistant. I figure I'll probably end up using those more often anyway.

It's not that my gear is trouble-prone, quite the opposite, it's usually equal to or better than the gear brought/used by virtually any other diver I've ever met...I like nice toyz, and I take very good care of my stuff.....99% of the time I'm doing the 'save-a-dive' thing for another diver....usually minor stuff (swapping out leaky hoses, tightening hoses/fittings/ replacing computer batteries/bad O-rings/zip ties on mouthpieces)

The Trident kit is clever, a good idea, but poorly executed.....the little zippered carrier isn't even water-proof, so if's it's out on a wet dive deck or in a wet/damp dive bag salt water soaks in through the fabric, causing all the pliers/screwdrivers/etc. to rust up very quickly...and I'm SOOOO done with that ! I'm building my own 'real' little save-a-dive kit and looking for tools that don't turn into rusted blocks of worthlessness when I actually expose them to field usage.....I want QUALITY and I don't care if it costs 2X-3X as much because that will still be cheaper than the constant replacing of the self-distructing Trident stuff, not to mention the quality stuff actually works out in the field when I'm in the middle of nowhere and actually REALLY need stuff to work!

And YES, I bring at least (2) complete reg sets on ALL trips.....again, it's rare that's it's ME having an issue, but ya never know, hence the need for 'insurance'.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

@scubafanatic: I hear ya. It's nice having good quality tools at your disposal. In general, I don't like the save-a-dive kits sold in dive shops either. I've pieced together my own. I was willing to get the cheapo thin wrenches because they were stainless steel, lightweight and, even if they developed some rust, they would still work because, hey, they're just open-ended wrenches.

I totally agree with you on the poorly designed Trident tool kit that comes in a zippered pouch. I think Trident also makes one which comes inside of a waterproof plastic box. That's probably not too bad. I keep my own save-a-dive kit in a small Otterbox.

I guess I don't place much importance on the quality of my save-a-dive tools because I live so close to my local dive site. I can always run back to the apartment to get something...and I'd probably be OK just skipping the dive and hanging out on the beach.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

....
I also ordered a Dive Rite IP gauge and checked that. I'm reading just under 140 psi. My understanding is that that is just about perfect.

Two thumbs up on getting an IP gauge and periodically checking your IP!

The relationship of IP to your regulator's health is what blood pressure is to human health.... seeing it slowly "creep" higher from it's "ideal" level is rarely good, and reason for a "check-up"

Best wishes.

 

[Nemrod]

It may not be the last tool kit he buys but it is a start and it is better than wrapping the regulator in a rag and then ruining it with pliers. Gotta start somewhere and that should get him going in the right direction.

N

 

[HenrikBP]

um, I haven't had good experiences with the innovative scuba ones, they rust easily,

... now you tell me

I just bought a set of those - they look nice ... at least for now.

Since they really are stainless steel, maybe they can be further "stain proofed" with a day-long bath in Coca Cola? Passivation I believe it's called.

I'm slowly building my portable dive toolkit as well. Keep it all in a Pelican case.

Before buying the thin wrenches I took a bit of aluminum strap from Home D and cut my own "thin wrench" to fit those Apeks nuts. Light and rust proof

Henrik