I tend to agree with some folks who feels a dive is a dive is a dive. Very few of us will ever chose to go into a divemaster program or head to be an instructor, so the whole question whether to log a dive or not or the criteria to log a dive is silly.
Alot of these "rules" are extrapolated from the requirement of certifying agencies on their open water check out dives. These rules were made to set the minimum training requirement for the instructors, so the students are not short-changed. Some set the minimum time for OW check out dives to be 20 minutes, and others for 15 minutes. The depths are also variable, and some say 20 ft, other say differently. Some instructor set up their own rules, when it comes to evaluating their own divemaster candidates - where the variety of diving condition is more important. Then you have divemaster candidates who try to skirt these rules by doing bounce dive, and trying to get 3 dives out of 1 tank.
You should dive as often as possible, irregarless of the environment. Dive in a 5 ft pool, dive in a 10 ft lake.... Dive as often as possible. And you will be a better diver. If you only dive dives that others consider to be real dive, you might not get enough experience to be a good diver.
Stupid rules don't really make sense. Deeper than 15 ft, deepter than 20 ft, more than 800 psi, more than 1/3 a tank, more than 15 minutes, more than 20 minutes - all a bunch of non-sense for people who haven't got any thing better to do than to set up rules.
Dive, dive, dive. Log all your dives. Dive logs are worthless if you do not note your tank size, type of metal, pressure rating, the thickness of your suit, the thickness of your hood/boot, and the type of BC you are wearing. Also note your fin type - as some are positive, and some are negative. How much weight you carried, and the distribution of your weight. Lastly, if the dive is in salt water or fresh water.
Preprinted dive sheet by SSI is totally worthless. They do not encourage proper record of dive information, as they are lacking on room for notation. The dive tank should be noted as LP, HP, or none (3000psi). These bouyancy characteristic can help you later when you use different tanks on the same dive, and still can refer to a table of tank specification to help you determine your weight requirement. Roughly, you'd carry about 4 lbs less lead when you dive with a steel HP tank vs an aluminum one. They do not prompt you to notice your tank type, nor your protective clothing - except for "dive skin, vs wet suit vs drysuit vs hood".
A few mm changes in neoprene in a hood, glove or boot could mean an extra 1 to 3 lbs of lead you'll need to wear. BC brands have different bouyancy characteristics, and should be noted.
All of this data is invaluable when you use a different configuration later. Log all your dives.... the information is for you, and not for anyone else. To me, the dives where you do 5 dives a day off a liveaboard where the crew change your tanks and gear between dives is less valuable than the night dive in a murky frozen mudhole where you learn invaluable lessons at 15 ft practicing your skills in a drysuit. One tank should last you over 60 minutes at 15 ft, but perhaps only 20 minutes at 100 ft.