I have watched this thread for two years, and have commented elsewhere about the ACD.
@Diving Dubai has some strong feelings about the ACD, and lots of opinions have been rendered about the cause of this sudden gas shutoff posted by
@databob:
I want to thank
@databob for his persistence in posting relevant details about this incident. Let no one be mistaken, this sudden shutoff was
real. All the posts saying it doesn't make sense, or didn't happen, are head-in-the-sand rejections of a decidedly uncommon, but clearly documented (thank you,
@databob !) event.
The pdf he attached was my "lightbulb moment". I had been following Aqualung's safety notice about the shutter valve torque, and I have concluded that we were all handed a red herring. It has
nothing to do with shutter valve torque.
(EDIT: The
entire discussion of mine that follows is wrong! The discussion is interesting, but my initial conclusion is incorrect. It took several weeks and many more posts, and some discussion, but a back channel communication from Aqualung revealed the truth that @LuisH figured out on his own mute than a year ago in this thread. It's a block of a 6 mm insert on a tank valve. Sorry for the spoiler. Now read on and enjoy! Way to go, Luis!)
I think I have the explanation, if you'll bear with a long-winded description.
This is a problem ONLY with the yoke version of the ACD, as the design of the DIN version is different. So all the DIN comments are essentially irrelevant.
First, let's review the part names, so we're all on the same page:
As
@Diving Dubai has pointed out, we still need good o-ring seals for gas flow to happen before the failure. That led me to conclude that it couldn't be a loose shutter valve, because the lower oring sealing the Shutter Valve to the Yoke retainer would rise out of its sealing position.
In this diagram, the red arrow points to that o-ring. A loose shutter valve would result in that part being higher, and potentially above the sealing land of the Yoke Retainer, resulting in an audible leak.
Additionally, if the shutter valve were loose (and unscrewing it places it higher in the Yoke Retainer), then the sealing point of the ACD (green arrow) would also lift up, opening the ACD. Hence, no blockage to air flow. My conclusion? The ACD "fail-closed" problem is NOT a function of shutter valve torque or loosening. My opinion only.
Next consideration: yoke retainer torque or loosening.
A lot of discussion revolved around the fact that if you grab a first stage that's pressurized, and twist it, you can unscrew the yoke retainer from the body of the first stage, because the retainer is fixed by the tank pressure, but the regulator body is subject to unscrewing if inadequately torqued on servicing.
That's a fact. But again, the seal of the yoke retainer to the body of the regulator is a face-sealing o-ring that will leak like crazy if unscrewed. While that would cause an airflow loss to the first stage, it would also be completely obvious. As
@databob has noted, the problem was reproduced on the boat with NO LEAKS. So it's not a loose yoke retainer. Evaluation of the engineering of the ACD also confirms that unscrewing the yoke retainer from the reg body would have NO effect on the ACD.
Next consideration, and the one I think is key to what may have happened:
Look at the three pictures harvested from
@databob and the video posted by
@alvinsuper above (thank you!):
Picture #1: Loose yoke; fully extended shutter crown spring; CLOSED ACD!
Picture #2: Tight yoke; fully compressed shutter crown spring; OPEN ACD!
Picture #3: Transition state: Yoke being tightened, shutter crown spring JUST coming under tension, but ACD STILL CLOSED!
Now since this last picture was captured from the video, and has a little stutter in it, it's easier to look at this state using a previous picture rotated to the same position:
Here we see a CLOSED ACD, and an incompletely compressed Shutter Crown.
This is where I want you to bear with me:
IF we could get a tank sealed to the Shutter Crown in this position, the tank wouldn't leak, but the ACD would be closed.
If we added just a HAIR more compression to the Shutter Crown, the ACD would open slightly, and everything would be okay. Or would it???
Now I need you to think about your various tank valves.
Some have a "land" (the carved out area where the valve o-ring sits) that is very shallow. Tank valve o-rings for those just seem to sit on the surface of the valve, and are the designs where the o-ring falls out easily. We all know them. Getting a seal requires a definitive tightening of the yoke knob onto the tank valve. Those AREN'T the valves I imagine are the problem.
Better valves have a deep land, with the o-ring deep in the land. You can occasionally hear the o-ring seal with this type of valve: there's a very brief "pffft!" and a tiny "pop!" and the o-ring seals. How? Instead of a face seal requiring significant pressure on the top surface of the valve o-ring, the o-ring instead seals up against the junction of the shutter crown's flat ring face, and the
side of the oring land in the tank valve. O-ring distortion makes the seal, which is why duro 90 is specified for these high pressure seals: the o-ring is resistant to extrusion after distortion.
We are all taught in our initial Open Water training to NOT overtighten the yoke knob. Why? Screw it down tight, add 3000 psi on a knob screw that's green with verdigris corrosion, and it's VERY difficult to get your reg off the tank after you depressurize. Instead, we're taught to use "just three fingers" to tighten the knob, and depend upon the o-ring seal to make the connection. And indeed that's what happens. The tank seals to the reg, and after it's pressurized, it's very hard to move anything, no matter how lightly you tightened the knob.
So far, so good.
Now I want you to think about "sliding parts" and sea water and a little verdigris corrosion. Where is that obvious? At the sleeve of the LPI connection between your inflator hose and your bcd. Sometimes that lightly spring loaded sleeve just won't move smoothly. It "catches", due to a grain of sand, or corrosion, or previous abuse.
Well, the Shutter Crown inside the Yoke Retainer is a similarly lightly spring loaded sliding connection.
Imagine that you're screwing down your yoke knob, and you don't want it to be too tight, and it seems to firm up and you stop screwing in.
But imagine that it "firmed up" because the shutter crown caught just a little against the inside bore of the yoke retainer. Maybe a salt crystal, maybe sand, maybe a ding inside the yoke retainer from a previous attempt to tighten the knob when the reg wasn't centered on the face of the valve and it pushed asymmetrically until the problem was discovered and fixed.
So now the tank valve o-ring is resting just lightly against the face of the Shutter Crown. There's JUST ENOUGH compression of the light spring under the Shutter Crown to open the Shutter valve a hair. And due to the excellent design of the tank valve o-ring land, when you pressurize, the valve o-ring seals up nicely against the face, and there's no leak there. The Shutter Crown seals against the tank valve not due to the pressure of that light spring, but due to the 3000 psi inside the compartment of the Yoke Retainer/Shutter Crown assembly, which forces both o-rings against their lands.
So you've got air flow, and all seems okay. But the Shutter Valve is just BARELY open. If you'd done an SPG check during a high-flow inhalation, you might have seen a dip, or you might not.
Now you're diving, and there are maybe 15 pounds of pressure against the tank valve o-ring (3000 psi x 0.05 sq in oring face area). Fifteen pounds pressing on that rubber for 10...20...30 minutes.
And at some point, that o-ring flattens just a hair. The Shutter Crown settles a hair deeper into the o-ring land of the tank valve. And what happens at that point?
As the Shutter Crown rises imperceptibly, the Shutter Valve closes that last little bit, and your air flow
stops.