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Mike, you will definitely want to go with the Sony EX1 in a Gates housing, or if budget allows, the Red One in the Gates housing.

Because:

?????

Native Editing in ?
Resolution?
Acquisition Format?
Archival Format?
Long Gop vs. I-frame
Lens
Low Light?
Post production?
Price
Time
And so on...


all vs:

X

?

Very hard to give (or take) a recommendation for a camera, production method, or gear without knowing why that person is offering said advice, or without knowing the asker's experience and use, time, budget, editing system, etc.
 
It's been a few years since I was in the Galapagos, but I think you will find the sand will be close enough to white to get decent results. I know you said you don't want to carry anything extra ... have you considered a slate with an arm that could attach to your housing ... like this one from Gates? I personally don't think using the arm is "ideal", but it does get a white slate in front of your camera, even if you don't have someone to hold it for you.

Enjoy the Galapagos. It's definitely a unique experience. If you have a chane to go tour the turtle farm (I think that's what they called it) go for it. Huge turtles roaming around. Really cool.

Cheers,

All of my diving has been in clear tropical waters. For setting manual white balance I have been using the white sand or my silver fullfoot fins as a reference and have gotten satisfactory results.

I have a trip scheduled for the Galapagos and wonder if the non white sand/gravel/rocks could be used as a MWB reference. I know the preference is a DSC color chart, but I don't want to have to carry anything extra and I won't be using my silver fins.
 
I know I'm coming late to this thread, but thought I'd throw in my 2 cents ...

My list of top 3 mistakes by beginners:

1. Poor buoyancy skills - I know that sounds like diving skill, not specifically video skill; however, poor buoyancy skills lead to a whole host of problems with shooting video. If a diver can't hover over the reef motionless the camera will be shaky, it will be moving constantly, and the diver will crash into the reef - causing terrible damage. First the diver should hone his/her buoyancy skills, then pick up the camera.
2. Not thinking about what you are shooting - Every single shot should tell a story. While you are shooting you should be thinking about the story you will be editing together when you are finished. Have a goal in mind. Shoot footage that helps you get to that goal.
3. Familiarity with camera/technical issues - White balance is certainly one of them (I've recently written a short article about that at my dive video blog) ... but there are so many ... basically it comes down to knowing how your camera works and then practice, practice, practice.

The advice I constantly give is to remember this is supposed to be fun. Take your time, practice, learn & enjoy the process.

-what do you personally do for white balance? any neat tricks?
-what do you think are the top 3 things that a beginner does wrong that can ruin otherwise great shots?

From my short experience - AWB, camera shake, too much panning. I watched the crew videographer on my last liveaboard, and he took a lot of nice calm static shots, but to get variety he jumped around a lot very quickly between shots to get new angles.
 
Actually I just recently found a method that I can set MWB with one hand while the other hand holds a reference card in front of the lens.

Basically, I raise my legs and get into a sitting position, housing rests on my thighs, left hand presses the MWB button while right hand holds the card in front of the lens. My external monitor allows me to view in this position to make sure the MWB set takes. Reference card is attached to a retractor which is attached to my bc. Card gets retracted and tucked into my bc when not being used.

It's nice having a cam/housing with easy 1 push MWB.


It's been a few years since I was in the Galapagos, but I think you will find the sand will be close enough to white to get decent results. I know you said you don't want to carry anything extra ... have you considered a slate with an arm that could attach to your housing ... like this one from Gates? I personally don't think using the arm is "ideal", but it does get a white slate in front of your camera, even if you don't have someone to hold it for you.

Enjoy the Galapagos. It's definitely a unique experience. If you have a chane to go tour the turtle farm (I think that's what they called it) go for it. Huge turtles roaming around. Really cool.

Cheers,
 
Actually I just recently found a method that I can set MWB with one hand while the other hand holds a reference card in front of the lens.

Basically, I raise my legs and get into a sitting position, housing rests on my thighs, left hand presses the MWB button while right hand holds the card in front of the lens.

Sounds like a bit of underwater yoga to me .. but hey, if it works it works.:D

It's nice having a cam/housing with easy 1 push MWB.

Yes, totally agree this is a great feature.
 
Hi,

I'm a professional underwater cinematographer working in Santa Barbara. I film and edit 90% of everything for DiveIntoYourImagination.com, a professional underwater production company. If anyone has questions regarding underwater film making or editing, send em' my way. I will do my best to answer all question in a timely manner. Thanks!

That's some great advice you've given in the last 7 months, keep up the good work! :lotsalove:

As to Mike's recommendations for the EX1, I've only heard good things about it even from a few of my anti-Sony friends. Most of the comparisons I've seen we're somewhat biased but still makes me want to check out the cam. I think right now the Red is the penultimate for true HD(not HDV). I've worked extensively with the footage and have been on topside shoots with it. Now that the bugs are hopefully worked out it should be a solid workhorse. I'm sure it's u/w performance is insane as well.

Billy
 
Because:

?????

Native Editing in ?
Resolution?
Acquisition Format?
Archival Format?
Long Gop vs. I-frame
Lens
Low Light?
Post production?
Price
Time
And so on...


all vs:

X

?

Very hard to give (or take) a recommendation for a camera, production method, or gear without knowing why that person is offering said advice, or without knowing the asker's experience and use, time, budget, editing system, etc.

I'm not sure as I have not looked at Sony's specs for the camera but to clarify for everyone else maybe you can clarify what you're asking.

Not sure if you're aware of this but "Native Editing in ?" is part of "Post production?" and "Resolution?" which is also a part of "Acquisition Format?." I'm also not quite sure what you mean by "Archival Format?" and "time."

As far as I know there is also no such battle between Long GOP and I-Frame as an I-Frame is a part to the whole of the GOP. The I-Frame is the first frame of data in the GOP(Group of Pictures), Long GOP just means that there are more P and B frames in the GOP. But I might have learned this incorrectly so if I'm giving incorrect information please clarify.

Billy
 
I have got the Sony Hc 1ooE and Ikelite housing with wide angle lens. I took video but the quality of the light and colours are not even close to the other videos taken days before i arrived by someone else. What camera do you recommend? what wide angle and lens? Apparently you can also get a casing with the lights "inside" and not adjacent on the casing?

Sorry for stupid questions
 
I have got the Sony Hc 1ooE and Ikelite housing with wide angle lens. I took video but the quality of the light and colours are not even close to the other videos taken days before i arrived by someone else. What camera do you recommend? what wide angle and lens? Apparently you can also get a casing with the lights "inside" and not adjacent on the casing?

Sorry for stupid questions

I am sure great information will come forward from other members but the important thing is to get light on your subject. Without light, your subject will never look as good as those who have light. I would also personally steer clear of having any lights inside the housing. You want the light to be hitting your subject at an angle from the side so that it is well lit up on both sides and in front. For that you need a bit of distance between the lights and the lens and the subject. This will also reduce the shadowing effect.

Just an amateurs opinion.
 
Mike, you will definitely want to go with the Sony EX1 in a Gates housing, or if budget allows, the Red One in the Gates housing.

I hope this doesn't come across as too naive or uninformed...i am using a sony hd xr200 with a light and motion stingray+. i believe one commented on a recent post; "second for review".

What am I "not" going to be able to do with my setup versus your recommendation?

Thx
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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