Question Any experience with DJI Osmo Action Pro 5?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Action 4 is better than the 5 unless the firmware has been updated to solve most of the issues.
I run two Action 3's for video and general documenting and they are amazing.
I dont run dlog anymore as its just a hassle later (unless you want to put in the time) and either have it on wide or standard depending on what I am trying to achieve.

To save space I normally run it in 2k resolution at 60fps but I have both 1080/60, 1080/120 and 4k/60 on the quick select button should I need to shoot something moving faster (120 fps) or something amazing(er) at 4k60 but the 2k is solid!
 
did you get a good floaty handle OR a tray (ensure your tray will float!) also the scuba housing?
I think I got a floaty selfie stick but time will tell. I got the floaty housing but it only fits the camera and not the camera with the underwater housing !!
 
Action 4 is better than the 5 unless the firmware has been updated to solve most of the issues.
I run two Action 3's for video and general documenting and they are amazing.
I dont run dlog anymore as its just a hassle later (unless you want to put in the time) and either have it on wide or standard depending on what I am trying to achieve.

To save space I normally run it in 2k resolution at 60fps but I have both 1080/60, 1080/120 and 4k/60 on the quick select button should I need to shoot something moving faster (120 fps) or something amazing(er) at 4k60 but the 2k is solid!
Can you change quick select underwater then ? I didn't realise that was possible !
 
Can you change quick select underwater then ? I didn't realise that was possible !
Floaty (foam) is not needed, the floating handle is enough with the scuba housing, just test in the bath or a body of water.

Only two buttons are used mostly, the screen of course is not touchable under water, so using the QS button on the side is the way you swap between modes and you SHOULD add all your desired modes to the QS menu. Also, because tech things fail from time to time, always ensure that your QS menus are always up to do before a dive, sometimes they reset.

In settings also ensure you set your quick video (when camera if off and you press record) defaults because it defaults to 1080/60 and then thats remembered to the next session, so if you turn it on it will be on 1080/60 when you might want 2k. So set the default to whatever you need it to be just to be sure you are all good underwater.

Rocksteady should always be on (its normally on by default)

Recommendations -
- turn off any voice commands and turn them on when you want to use it and turn off again when not using it.
- front screen/back screen - decide how you want it (both on, or only rear) and stick to it BUT TEST IT underwater to see if the light from the front screen affects your video
- turn off indicator LED's - this is a tough one to turn off because its soooo fking useful, but the front LEDs tend to show up in the scuba casing when recording which is bad...
 
Thanks for such a helpful response, I will take your advice, does the led show up constantly whilst recording with the housing ? I'm not using the floaty handle, I like to use a selfie stick underwater. Do you have all your settings to auto ? I was also told to not use with screen
 
Thanks for such a helpful response, I will take your advice, does the led show up constantly whilst recording with the housing ? I'm not using the floaty handle, I like to use a selfie stick underwater. Do you have all your settings to auto ? I was also told to not use with screen
So to address your comment:
1. Led flashes and refracts and shines in the housing, adding artifacts to your shots
2. selfie stick means = sinking camera. Would recommend you rather get a floaty as it saves your camera if something goes wrong, also itll be more stable in hand, recently a diver died due to chasing their sinking gopro down.... I helped a diver on our last trip and had to take my armstrap off while helping and in the commotion lost grip but didnt notice as I though I still had my tether and low and behold.... the guys on the boat saw my camera floating and saved it... the diver I helped also got back safely
3. Most are on auto for sure. Dlog is a slog if you dont want to edit for hours afterwards, so coloud on auto. Wide/Standard (as I said) and everything else on autoish....
4. Screen on, have a timer on it for sure but you will have to have it on now and then to ensure you are still recording as you wont have ths status LEDs on.... just dont have it WITHOUT a auto off timer on the screen as it overheats a LOT, but dont worry, it doesnt destroy itself, been there and dont that.
 
Thanks, so it is possible to use it without the flashing LED's ?
Do you need the fog inserts ? are they reusable ?
Do you use silicon jell to seal the housing ?
Thanks for all your help.
 
Back
Top Bottom