Is there some reason generic recreational scuba diving has standardized on a valve-up position for air cylinders, with hoses sticking out all over the place on the 1st stage? It's just easiest to do things that way?
Valve up seems to be a lousy way to do things if you are at risk of snagging underwater objects and you can't see what is behind you..
It seems like it would make much more sense for the valves to point downward, with a shoulder ring like on propane tanks so it can be set down upside down without resting on the valve, and have hoses that run up the sides of the tank(s) to the usual location, held in place alongside the tank.
Now the only thing behind you is the bottom of the tank, which is much less likely to snag on anything as you swim forward.
This also makes it far easier to turn the tank valve on or off behind you, since an upside-down tank valve will be approximately at hip level.
So, a couple things you'll find and a couple things you can and, IMO, should do.
First, there's nothing "generic" about a traditional recreational rig. While I understand where you're coming from as a new diver, you have to put this into perspective. 10's of thousands of dives are being conducted every year and the valve up poses no more entanglement hazard than the valve down. If you were to be so incredible unlucky to have something snag your valve and first stage, well, you're diving with a cutting device (2 is 1, knife, line cutter and/or EMT shears) and a buddy, right? You stay calm and fix the problem.
Second, valve control. Barring a disability, you should be able to reach the tank valve. Bottom line. Practice until you're proficient.
Third, I don't know if you've done any boat diving yet, but do you want to be on a pitching boat with a now unstable rig and trying to flip your rig upside down? Tanks want to tip over as is even with a flat boot, they'll want to tip even more with the commonly sold valve stands. Are you going to rig every one of your tanks this way? What about when you rent tanks? Are you going to continue to uninstall and reinstall the valve stand every time you dive a new tank. I promise you that will get old and you'll be stuck with that configuration since you sized your hoses for that setup. Which beings me to my next point.
Once your first stage and hoses are on the tank they shield a lot of the entanglement hazard. If you're in good trim and your head up, your head is likely to hit whatever entanglement hazard is present first. Which, there isn't much of an entanglement hazard in OW. I'd say wrecks present the highest possible risk of entanglement. Staying on the subject of hoses... If you route your hose right and size their length right, you can literally achieve hose routing that is barely visible.
For example, I dive what I consider a modified streamlined open water setup and it took some patience to get my hose lengths just right. My inflator routes tight over my left should down to my Air2 which is held close to my chest with a magnet. My naked SPG is tight to my body under my left arm and clipped to a lowered left shoulder d ring. My primary is on a 40" hose routed under my right arm and comes up to my mouth on a 90 degree elbow. You could look at me in the water from any angle and you'd be hard pressed to find any daylight between my hoses and body. For most, instead of the Air2 in the streamlined setup, you would put your backup second stage on a short ~22" hose over your right shoulder on a bungeed necklace. See the illustration below. Isn't that pretty?
Everyone has the right to dive whatever rig configuration works for them, personally, I think your entanglement concern is unfounded with any substantial risk and the hose issues could be solved with better routing and proper lengths.