Annoying exhaust bubbles

[spectrum]

I dont see how you guys live with those single hose things, prying on your jaws, jacking on your teeth, blowing bubbles all over the place, stiff hoses running all over hte place, nosiy and unreliable contraptions. Not that there is anything wrong with that, you know.

N

Sounds like you had some configuration issues....

 

[Walter]

Take up tennis.

 

[divin'dog]

I agree with Nemrod in that the double hose regulator is the best solution to avoid bubbles (with open circuit, and not jumping to the complexity of a re-breather), but I am not sure why Nemrod is saying that you are not going to like it…I like mine a lot.

The double hose exhaust and demand valve are both mounted directly to your tank. Therefore not only are all the bubbles exhaled out back, but any noise is also behind you.

You can get much closer to any marine life. Sometimes when I stay still I can get fish to come up to my mask to take a look in.

Also with the noise behind you, you can hear all the sounds around you a lot better. In the Caribbean is neat to hear very clearly the parrot fish when they are crunching on corral.


This is not a type of regulator you just find at your LDS, but if you are really interested, they are available. It takes a bit more commitment to locate one and learn how to use it properly, but it does have a number of advantages (and some disadvantages) over a single hose regulator. They are very easy, user friendly, and a lot of fun to use, but they are bit different.

Ok, I'll "bite"... where can I find a double hose regulator? Who makes 'em? and what's the advantages and disadvantages? and more importantly, what do they cost?

 

[divin'dog]

... There was a thread of someone trying to make a home made remedy using collapsible hose, but haven’t heard if it ever worked. I am somewhat skeptical about the implementation of that solution without inducing a free flow. It is not impossible, but it can be a problem.


Good luck

What would induce the free-flow? Would it be because the air exhaled would form a column of air that would "pull" more air out of the exhaust? I thought about making one myself.

 

[Luis H]

What would induce the free-flow? Would it be because the air exhaled would form a column of air that would "pull" more air out of the exhaust? I thought about making one myself.

Basically, yes.

The demand valve pressure sensing diaphragm would be lower in the water column than the point of exit of the exhaust. The only way it can work is if it is an open channel (flooded) kind of guide tube.

There was a single hose regulator that tried a flooded hose exhaust to carry the air back. It was called the Demone. If you do a search in this board you will find several posts of mine with picture of the regulator.


Putting the exhaust next to the demand valve diaphragm was actually the primary item in the Cousteau Gagnon original patent for the Aqua Lung (even before it was called an Aqua Lung, actually it was a French name that I can’t remember).

 

[Luis H]

Ok, I'll "bite"... where can I find a double hose regulator? Who makes 'em? and what's the advantages and disadvantages? and more importantly, what do they cost?

As I mentioned, a DH is nothing you will find at your LDS.

The preferred DH that most of dive is the US Divers (now Aqua Lung) Royal Aqua Master, the Aqua Master, or a modification of the Royal Aqua Master (Known as the Phoenix Royal Aqua Master.

The Royal Aqua Master and Aqua Master have not being in production since 1973, but there are many thousands out there in excellent condition, and even beat up ones are getting re-chromed and fully re-condition now a-day.

We now have any reproduction part needed (hoses, silicone diaphragms, silicone mouthpiece valves, etc.), but all the mechanical parts are the same as in most modern Aqua Lung regulators (Conshelf, Titan, etc.)

We have web sites and a whole community that share the knowledge and the supporting the production of reproduction parts. We also have some individuals that service them commercially, but many of us do our own service.

The biggest disadvantage is that the initial acquisition and setting it up can be a bit of a project, but it is fun. The other big disadvantage is that many who try one get very addicted and end up collecting many more and diving many other models. It can be very addicting…it is fun.

For initial cost, you can start with as little as a two or three hundred, but you do need to count in more than that for service and initial replacement parts.

To get started one of the best places is from VintageDoubleHose.com were he often has full recondition and ready to dive regulators at what I consider very good prices (once you take into account all the replaced parts and service). I think there is a fully recondition RAM there at this moment for $425.

This is not for everyone, but it is a lot of fun and a great way to dive.

If you are interested, go the Sea Hunt area or do a search. You will see a lot of related topics.


Advantages and disadvantages…we can write a book…actually I have written a number of posts about it. I may try to add links later, but again a search should lead you to some of what has been written.

 

[beanojones]

How much is rechroming? ANd where might you get such things done?

 

[Luis H]

How much is rechroming? ANd where might you get such things done?

We have used several different plating shops with excellent results.

In the past I have paid from $80 to $100 for a set of DH cans and about $150 including the main body.

I have gotten a quote of about $100 for the main pieces on a Scubapro adjustable (109/156) metal second stage.


Bryan at VDH has a great source that does a superb job on his web site:
Chrome Plating [DHP-CHROME1] - $150.00 : Vintage Double Hose!, Your online source for all things related to vintage diving

There are some others that do a great job for less, but this shop really those outstanding work. It is the same shop that gold plated the collectors Phoenix Royal Aqua Master that was raffled at Portage Quarry.

The plating he is doing will probably outlast most original finish. He explained to me the different layers of copper and nickel he is using and as far as I can tell his process should exceed any OEM plating in terms of durability (and looks).



An advantage of good all metal regulator (like a RAM or even a Scubapro 109) is that if desired, you can always have them refinish…with a plastic second stage all you can hope is to be able to some day have them recycled into soda bottle of a fleece sweater.

 

[herman]

Dang Luis hush up, DA's are going up in price every day. How can I collect more of them at these prices. My DH addiction is getting costly
(Regs 6 and 7 are on the bench waiting on Bryan to get in the rest of his hoses.)

 

[WetCell]

I love diving when I feel like part of the ocean. The buoyancy is perfect, it's a nice clear reef, lots of life and I'm just slowly floating around at about 75' taking it all in. Only problem is that on every exhaust, the bubbles come up in my face and around my ears and are an annoyance to what would be a great moment.

Is there any device that can be attached to my exhaust-T that can reroute the bubbles to behind my head so that I don't have to see or hear them? Anyone else with the same feeling?

I use an Oceanic FDX-10 and rarely notice the bubbles. It is a "feature" that is often touted in regulator ads (how well the bubbles come out and in what direction).

If you modify your second stage (with a device), then you modify how you use your regulator in general. Given that a regulator is often an L-site, or point of litigation come lawsuit time, I doubt you will find any devices like you seek and if you make them yourself, welcome to the world of tech diving, just be careful and think things through.

Others have suggested a double-hose system--I say go all the way to CCR, no bubbles at all!

Happy diving.