Am I tying this knot correctly? Am I using the right line?

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However tight I pull these they always comes loose after a few dives.

I'm using cave lines but it feels to me it's too smooth?

Should I use other kind of line? Or different type of knot?
Or maybe I should just switch to a zip tie.. Any downside to that?

Thanks!

View attachment 661723
As long as stainless steel doesn't come into permanent contact with aluminum there won't be a problem.
 
As long as stainless steel doesn't come into permanent contact with aluminum there won't be a problem.

Is cut-ability something I should worry about?
There's no way I can break that zip-tie underwater .

I'd say probably not? If it gets tangled then I can just let go of the light? (albeit that's couple hundreds gone.)
 
Is cut-ability something I should worry about?
There's no way I can break that zip-tie underwater .

I'd say probably not? If it gets tangled then I can just let go of the light? (albeit that's couple hundreds gone.)
Maybe not for a flash light. Follow the YouTube vids. I wouldn't use a zip-tie. Lights don't get tangled. You can place a O-ring from a motor filter on your wrist and attach the bolt snap on to that, in case you drop the flash light. Or buy a Goodman style handle.
Impugnatura Goodman per Torcia subacquea EOS | Mares
 
Questions..

Which glue do you use?

And if you superglue it, then it's ok to use Zip tie?
I thought the reason to use line is because it's cut-able in an emergency. Are glued knots also cut-able?

Thanks!

Absolutely it’s still cuttable. Also that’s not primarily why I use cave line. I find it to be the most durable, flexible, adaptable option available. I use cave line to attach bolt snaps to lights, hoses, camera handles, etc.

I use the clear Gorilla Superglue typically. I use just enough to lock in the knot. Just a dab.

I don’t use zip ties because they don’t last. They are fine for a field repair but they don’t hold up to dynamic uses where they are pulled & twisted constantly.
 
The problem on lack of loops is because the hole on the light is too small.
It only allows for 1 thread.

Looking at the picture in the first post, it seems there is space enough for a second.

Also, one of the most critical aspects of a proper knot is finishing with fire; that's the thing that will hold everything.
 
The problem on lack of loops is because the hole on the light is too small.
It only allows for 1 thread.
That looks like the back of a LX20/LX20+/HP50 from dive rite. There is enough room to get a couple loops in there, or at least there is on the two of mine. You can also try a prusik on the bolt snap which is what I do, then the ends cross through the hole on the light and tie it back.

Is cut-ability something I should worry about?
There's no way I can break that zip-tie underwater .

I'd say probably not? If it gets tangled then I can just let go of the light? (albeit that's couple hundreds gone.)
Breaking zip-ties is surprisingly easy, just twist them.

Metal to metal connections are considered bad, but for most divers it's not something you'll ever have to worry about and not something I would prioritize, but the cave line is the best way to attach stuff.
 
I think you have a granny instead of a square knot.
Seconded.

If the hole in the light is too small for more than one loop, there are a few alternatives:
  1. One loop, finish DIR style as has been shown by others already.
  2. Use a thinner line.
  3. Put a split ring in the light's hole, tie to the split ring.

In any case: Make sure you tie a square knot and not a granny, then melt the ends with a lighter and flatten the ends while they're still melted. I've never had knots slip open when I do that (says he, very much aware that he's probably jinxing himself...)
 
Metal to metal connections are considered bad, but for most divers it's not something you'll ever have to worry about
If you're an UW photographer, you probably should. A camera rig can be rather large and unwieldy, so I consider it to be A Good Idea(tm) to be able to ditch it if SHTF.

the cave line is the best way to attach
Agreed. And I'm never diving overhead and haven't taken Fundies.
 
I use a small ring of inner tube, maybe 3/8" in width, and lock the loop around the hose and then through the bolt snap. I do this for regulator hoses and canister light heads, but not for cordless lights. It stays nice and tight, only takes a minute with no tools to do it, and it's easy to break away if necessary. I've never had one break unexpectedly. I could easily replace one underwater if needed.
 
I use a small ring of inner tube, maybe 3/8" in width, and lock the loop around the hose and then through the bolt snap. I do this for regulator hoses and canister light heads, but not for cordless lights. It stays nice and tight, only takes a minute with no tools to do it, and it's easy to break away if necessary. I've never had one break unexpectedly. I could easily replace one underwater if needed.
I think I understand this, but can you take a picture?
 

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