Air Fill Protocol

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no, we are disagreeing on ... what is "overpressure" and "too much"

... there are many threads on SB about this topic, and posts by others Way more knowledgeable than I am and that are well versed in the regulations

I'm following what I've gleaned from them, and some thinking on it myself
(It's no more than your tires are not overinflated after driving on them , if when they were cold you put in the max pressure in them as stated on the sidewall ... the pressure is higher, yes, but they are not overinflated )
 
At our shop, if I slowfill, I'll go to 31-3200 on the gauge, since they're only accurate to 100psi anyway, and I always err towards the side of "more" since I personally HATE short fills, (I consider 2900 a short fill), and I would never do that to a customer.

I typically fill aluminums to 3300 or so and they nearly ALWAYS cool to 3000 on the nose. If the customer gets 3100 or 3200, I figure that's a bonus, and they'll be happy and come back again.

HP steels get 3500 or so, then a top off to 35-3600.

LP steels get a fill to 2700 (cool) regardless of + stamping, but if you're a friend of mine or a "regular", I'll pump 'em to any pressure between 2400 and 3800 or so if you ask.

We have rental steel 72s rated at 2250 and they live at 3000.

Just trying to bring a little taste of North Florida to Central TX.

I won't fool around with overfilling aluminum tanks, but I'll fill steels to hydro pressure without blinking.
 
There's nothing to disagree about, overpressure is overpressure. Those are hard facts. If a tank is rated to 3000 psi and you let it go above 3000 psi, then it's too much pressure. It doesn't matter if this is caused by too much gas or by too high temperature.

The only thing to disagree about is how much overpressure is acceptable. If you see 3500 psi as acceptable pressure for a tank that's rated to 3000 psi, then so be it. But again it doesn't matter if this pressure is caused by an overfill (too much gas) or by an increased temperature (with the same amount of gas) or maybe by a combination of the two. It's always pressure that matters and nothing else.

In other words: If you think a tank filled to 3000 psi at room temperature is ok to heat up to a temperature where it will read 3500 psi, then by deduction you also need to be ok with a tank at room temperature that's been filled to 3500 psi, as long as you don't expose it to heat.

Are you stating this because you actually have technical knowledge about this, and also the regulations, or are you stating this because that's just what you think?
 
(It's no more than your tires are not overinflated after driving on them , if when they were cold you put in the max pressure in them as stated on the sidewall ... the pressure is higher, yes, but they are not overinflated )

Tyres are not such a good analogy as the indicated pressure is normally 'when cold'. Tyres get hot when being used and the manufactures design them accordingly.


I used to use some (on a 7 tonne trailer) that when cold were 120psi, but 180psi at working temperature.


Back to the topic. I'm not overly concerned about a small under-fill, say, 10%. As I should plan my dive gas management and if I'm getting that close so 20 Bar matters, I should carry more gas (air). My gauge could be out by 20 Bar so it isn't worth the risk.


I would get quite concerned with an overfill if I'm using my A clamp as I don't know its tolerance above 232 Bar; and my older one is 207 Bar rated.

Overfills are much rearer in the UK as its illegal for a commercial air station to fill above working pressure.


Regards
 
At our shop, if I slowfill, I'll go to 31-3200 on the gauge, since they're only accurate to 100psi anyway, and I always err towards the side of "more" since I personally HATE short fills, (I consider 2900 a short fill), and I would never do that to a customer.

I typically fill aluminums to 3300 or so and they nearly ALWAYS cool to 3000 on the nose. If the customer gets 3100 or 3200, I figure that's a bonus, and they'll be happy and come back again.

HP steels get 3500 or so, then a top off to 35-3600.

LP steels get a fill to 2700 (cool) regardless of + stamping, but if you're a friend of mine or a "regular", I'll pump 'em to any pressure between 2400 and 3800 or so if you ask.

We have rental steel 72s rated at 2250 and they live at 3000.

Just trying to bring a little taste of North Florida to Central TX.

I won't fool around with overfilling aluminum tanks, but I'll fill steels to hydro pressure without blinking.

you Sir are my kinda guy!

Sent from my DROID X2
 
I only used tires as an example of a pressure rating at one temperature, .. Tanks are rated at one temperature, and when they heat up the pressure is higher but they are still not overfilled, any more than your tires are overfilled if checked warm

UK fills ... must be a pain to fill to rated pressure then without being able to make an allowance for temperature of the tank
 
I find that questionable at best. It's not the contained amount of gas that would kill a cylinder, it's the pressure. If you fill a tank to 3000 psi at room temperature, then heat it up, it will increase the pressure and given enough pressure, the tank will rupture.

If you fill a good condition 3000psi tank to 3000psi, do you have any idea how hot you'd have to heat it for it to rupture (providing the burst disk didn't perform correctly)? I live in FL, and on a hot summer's day, I don't think you could accomplish this by leaving it in a black car, on a black asphalt driveway. Hydro pressure is 5000psi and I'd venture a guess that it actually takes more than 5000psi to rupture an aluminum tank.

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The only time we have rented tanks we got the standard AL-80 and all 7 times we dove had 3100-3200 psi. According to the shop they quick fill to ~3700. Seems to have been working well for them.

Works well for me too. Fill it to 3600-3700'ish and it'll cool to 3200'ish all the time. Never an unhappy customer.

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It may seem odd, but he is correct and it makes sense if you really think about it. The engineers that design these cylinders and the government agencies that regulate them are certainly aware that temperature affects pressure. They design the tanks to contain pressure including common scenarios like storing the tank in the sun or in the truck of a car on a hot summer day. Then they add an additional safety factor on top of that. Therefore, these cylinders are designed to safely store pressures much higher than their "rated" pressure. If they weren't they would be blowing up everytime someone left one in the sun for too long. However, they still need to assign a pressure rating to it so people know what is considered "full" or safe for that tank. That rating is based on "room temperature" since that is the temp the tank is most likely to be most of the time. Room temp is arbitrarily defined as 72 degrees in this case. In warmer conditions (like during a fill, or nearly any time of year in Florida) it would be within the design specs to fill the tank to an equivalant pressure for that temperature. It's really no different than filling a tank very slowly to 3000 in a 72 degree room and then storing it in an 85 degree room afterwards.

There's a whole lot of type there, and I'm not sure of your ultimate point, but fill a healthy AL80 to 4000psi at 80F, stick it in a car at 190F and you're still not to burst pressure, let alone the hydro pressure of 5000psi.

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I have personally seen several folks that have overfilled their LP tanks to 3,500 and then go on a 12 hr drive with these tanks sitting in the truck bed exposed to summer time temperatures in the south (along the gulf). I would not say it's safe, but I do agree a couple of hundred psig will not hurt the tank.

Funny story...
I made a dive with a new buddy last week. He said, "I'm all ready to go. I've got my LP85's topped off to 3300psi with EAN32". I replied, "I'm all ready to go also, but my LP85's are topped off to 4k with EAN30".

And they sat in my trunk all week waiting for that dive. :)

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Oxygen Explosion - YouTube

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This reply intriqued me and I wanted to understand why this could be. I decided to play around with some numbers to try and understand and/or explain if everything I said earlier was correct or what others are saying is correct. The following is my attempt to explain what's going on during a fill.

When a cylinder is Hydrostatically tested, it is filled to 5/3'rd (or 166%) of its service pressure. This means that AL 80's rated at 3000 PSI would be filled to 5000 PSI (3000 PSI / 3 = 1000 PSI then * 5 = 5000 PSI) at the hydrostatic testing facility. The expansion of the cylinder is measured and recorded before and after the test and if it remains expanded beyond certain tolerances then the cylinder is condemned otherwise it passes hydrostatic testing.

Cylinder valves have a burst disc to help prevent cylinders failing from over pressurization (commonly in-case a fill station operator leaves the fill whip connected and walks away for too long). A properly matched burst disc generally tolerates a 40% pressure expansion beyond the cylinders service pressure before it fails. An AL 80 cylinder rated at 3000 PSI with a properly matched burst disc should fail at 4200 PSI (Service Pressure * 40% = 3000 PSI * 1.4 = 4200 PSI).

NOTE: If an aluminum cylinder filled to its rated service pressure is heated high enough to cause the burst disc to fail, then if the same cylinder were filled with to half or less pressure, it may weaken from structural fatique before reaching burst disc pressure. Aluminum cylinders begin to fatique after about 300* F.

Cylinder volumes/pressures are considered to be at "room temperature" because they spend the majority of their time sitting in a room (not in a fire, not in the trunk of a car in the middle of the Saudi Arabian desert, and not in a Hydostatic testing facility). Room temperature is defined as 72* F. Manurfacturers use this value when establishing a tank's volume/service pressure rating.

There are a few different methods used to fill a cylinder (my definitions may be a bit off)

*) Hot-fill. When a cylinder is rapidly filled to reduce the fill time. Generally this fill is beyond roughly 600 PSI/minute.
*) Slow-fill. When a cylinder is filled at roughly 500 PSI/minute or less
*) Wet-fill. When a cylinder is filled inside a water bin -- usually slow'ish. Wet-fills convect heat away from the cylinder faster than if it was sitting dry at room-temperature.

The very act of filling a cylinder generates heat. This is because molecules generate heat as they are squeezed into a confined space. The more rapid the squeezing, the higher the temperatures. This squeezing is called "compression". Compression is a hot-topic! (bada-boom, bada-bing)

Charles' Law states that (Pressure * Volume)/Tempurature is constant. This means that P1/T1 = P2/T2. When computing pressure changes related to temperature, we must first adjust F to absolute zero which brings us to the Rankine scale -- which is -460* F. This means that zero degrees F = 460* Rankine and 72* F = 532* Rankine (460+72).

I could not easily find an actual measurement or statmeent of the temperature of a cylinder during hot-fill. Let us assume a cylinder reaches 120*F during a hot-fill in a room that is 72* F then we could compute:


P1/T1 = P2/T2
=3000/(460+72) = P2/(460+120)
=3000/532 = P2/580

P2=(3000/532) * 580 = 3384 PSI

What does this mean? This means that if we hot-fill an AL80 cylinder with a service pressure of 3000 PSI to 3384 PSI (with an internal cylinder tempurature of 120* F during fill), we are still well beneath the burst disc pressure of 4200 PSI and signicantly below the Hydrostatic pressure test of 5000 PSI.

This means that it should be safe to over fill a currently-in-hydro AL80 cylinder to 3384 PSI without fear of structural fatique *IF* that cylinder has not previously been exposed to heat in exceess of 300* F at any point in the past and *IF* it is in good condition (no nicks, scratches, dings, bulges, bows or corrosion beyond prescribed tolerances) and *IF* the burst disc itself is not faulty.

Just for fun, I wanted to see what the pressure would be of a fully filed AL80 cylinder if exposed to a 300* F fire:

P1/T1 = P2/T2
=3000/(460+72) = P2/(460+300)
=3000/532 * 760 = 4285 PSI

Recall earlier that the burst disc of this cyclinder should tolerate up to 4200 PSI? This burst disc should fail just before reaching 300* F if it was filled to 3000 PSI at room temperature before being exposed to the heat source. But what if the same cylinder filled to 1200 PSI was exposed to the same fire?

1200/532 * 760 = 1714 PSI

This means that the cylinder itself would likely fail from heat featique long before the burst disc fails from over pressurization.

Next time a fill operator refuses to fill beyond service pressure alone perhaps you can explain this to them but remember: "their shop, their rules". You are always free to go somewhere else for a fill.

Hope this helps!

EDIT: The DOT does allow a cylinder to be over-filled to a pressure that will cool to its service pressure at room temperature. I was not able to dig in an find an exact reference online to link to but hopefully someone here can (J1Scuba has a Hydro facility perhaps he can point us in the right direction ??... J1... J1?)

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Now that I've explained how pressures and temperatures work with cylinder fills, I wish to complete my investigation of the wisdom of people who do such overfills.

Low-pressure tanks are generally 2400/2640 PSI. 3000 PSI is generally considered medium-pressure and 3442+ PSI is considered high-pressure. Because I do not know what cylinders CBRICH observed, I will assume a use an LP95 as an example. An LP95 is a low-pressure steel cylinder rated to 2640 PSI when "+" rated. They are popular in cave-country because they can be overfilled and have characteristics that make them more preferable to use than HP 100's or 130's. For purposes of this investigation, I will assume the cylinder is "+" rated.

The burst disc of such a cylinder should tolerate 3696 PSI before failing to over-pressurization. Let us assume the tanks filled at 3500 PSI heat to 130* while driving through a desert in the summer. The pressure should be:

P1/T1 = P2/T2
=3500/(460+72) = P2/(460+130)
=3500/532 = P2/590
P2 = (3500/532) * 590 = 3881 PSI

What does this mean? Well, first it means that the tanks will overheat causing the PSI to skyrocket beyond the 3696 burst disc tolerance to a whopping 3881 PSI. In order to allow this, a higher rating burst disc must be applied to the tanks. Even a burst disc for a 3000 PSI rated cylinder would not be enough. One would have to use a 3500 PSI service pressure rated burst disc.

What is the hydrostatic testing pressure of the same tank? (2640 / 3 * 5 = 4400 PSI). Doing this would bring the pressure of the LP95, filled at 3500 PSI at a tempurature of 130* F to within 600 PSI of hydrostatic testing limits.

This means that the cylinder could potentially fail and explode before the burst disc.

But what if the cylinder was an AL80? The same formula would apply above to reach 3381 PSI but the burst disc pressure would be 4200 PSI bringing the cylinder pressure to within 400 PSI of burst disc pressure.

I'll leave it up to you to decide if that is a risk worth taking.

But in 40 years of people doing it, it's never caused a fatality in the US among cave divers. Yup, worth the risk. Oh, and what's this burst disk you keep referring to? :D :D :D
 
I only used tires as an example of a pressure rating at one temperature, .. Tanks are rated at one temperature, and when they heat up the pressure is higher but they are still not overfilled, any more than your tires are overfilled if checked warm

That's assuming the tank ratings are designed to allow for the additional pressure caused by heat. How do you know that's the case? And if it is, how much heat is not too much heat? Shouldn't that be in the specs too then?

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Are you stating this because you actually have technical knowledge about this, and also the regulations, or are you stating this because that's just what you think?

I do have technical knowledge about this. It's called high school physics. But just in case, they also teach Charles' Law in OWD courses, for the sole reason of trying to tell people not to let tanks heat up.
 
Tanks do not burst from being overfilled... ever. A simple google search would prove that, and this discussion would now be over.
 
So that is how it goes, the longer the fills the better am I right?
 

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