Advice on finalizing my regulator setup - Backup reg considerations

[ohecht]

Hi,

I'm about to buy my first regulator setup and I have a few questions left, and would appreciate some help.
I am a recreational diver, but plan to go tech in the future. I want my reg setup to be tech compatible and don't want to replace it, only add the missing parts when I decide to go tech.
I dive in warm to hot waters only, lowest will be around 64 degrees Fahrenheit therefore no need for cold water consideration.

I plan on getting a MK25/G250V (After much debate whether I should get the A700 or S600 instead) and a SPG & depth gauge (As a backup for my Suunto Vyper Air).

My difficulty is deciding on the octopus I should take. My choices are a second G250V or an R395 octopus.

I have read that if I were to go tech it is recommended to have an unbalanced backup reg so it will not free-flow while it hangs upside down on my neck.
In addition, I have read it should be different than my main reg in case I need to tell the difference only by touch (In a dark situation and assuming it is no longer attached to my neck otherwise it would be easy to tell which one is which )

If these recommendations are correct and I did not misunderstand them, should I get the R395? Or the G250V is better and will be okay even for the tech days?

Currently I'm AA certified (SSI) and will start a divecon course in 2 months. Before reading it here I was not aware of the backup regulator attachment on the neck. Will it be okay if I use it? It make more sense than have my backup reg attached somewhere on my BC but I have never tried this config and am not trained with it.
Is there a special training I should take or just a few OOA drills will be enough?
Also, I am not sure if it's allowed in the divecon course. As a part of the divcon training I will undergo a Rescue course too and I believe I will do OOA practices. Will I be allowed for having the backup reg around my neck and my main reg will be the one I give my buddy?
If so I will probably get a longer main hose, not 7' since I think it will not be convenient but a longer hose than the standard main hose for sure.


Last question is a bit off topic but I don't wanna start a new thread just for this. If I'm in the wrong place and should post it in the BC section please tell me and I will post it there.

I'm getting the Halcyon Infinity with an SS backplate and not sure which wing to get a 30lb or 40lb. I do not own a tank and will probably won't get one either, therefore I dive with LDS tanks which are most of the time AL80. Although I do want the option for being able to carry a steel tank if needed. Will the 40lb wing drag be that much noticeable if I take it instead of the 30lb?

Wow.. It turned to be a long question... Sorry about that
Nonetheless, thanks a lot for your help!

Oren.

 

[redacted]

Balanced vs unbalanced has no direct effect on the propensity to freeflow. The G250 is a much better choice for an alternate. You can dial it down to minimize the tendency to freeflow and dial it up for top performance when you need it. With an R-xxx you just have to go with some in between compromise.

 

[halocline]

If you're serious about tech diving and are certain you're heading in that direction, get another MK25/G250V set up. It will be much cheaper than simply buying the 2nd stage now and an additional 1st stage when you go to doubles. The advice you got about the unbalanced/balanced alternate is kind of an old DIY axiom, except whoever told you got the reasons wrong. The idea is that an unbalanced 2nd will freeflow first in the event of a HP seat failure, saving your hoses and allowing you to finish the dive on your primary 2nd....at least that's what I remember. As far as preventing freeflow while is on the necklace, an adjustable 2nd stage like the G250 is pretty handy, that's what I use. (well, sort of, I use a metal case balanced adjustable, the G250's ancestor)

Most tech diving will be in doubles; two 1st stages and two 2nd stages. Might as well get those. Unless, of course, you want an entire single tank and an entire double tank set up. For your SPG, you probably know this, but get a bare SPG (no depth/SPG console) on a 24" hp hose and attach a bolt snap with some cave line or a piece of inner tube. If you want a back up depth gauge you can wear it on your wrist. There are some decent reasonably priced watches that have a depth gauge function.

As far as telling the difference between your 2nd stages in zero vis, never heard that one for the two 2nds on your back gas, but it would make sense for a stage bottle with a different gas. It sounds like that issue is down the road a ways for you.

For hoses, I would get a 5 ft hose for your OW primary, a 7 ft hose (at some point) for restrictions, and a 22-24" hose for the alternate, rout them in the hogarthian way, and I would dive that way from this moment on. Believe me, you get used to the long hose and you'll never look back. Its more comfortable, convenient, WAY better and easier for air sharing, really no downside whatsoever. If they won't let you take rescue in that kind of set up, get a new teacher.

Since you're a warm water diver, unless you're....how do I put this delicately....really, really fat, a 30 lb wing will be plenty, even with a steel tank. Actually, the fat part is kind of a joke; even jabba the hut could put all that weight on a belt and get away with a small wing in warm water. You just need lift to compensate for the weight of the gas in the tank plus wetsuit compression, and float your rig on the surface without you in it.

Have fun!

 

[chile7236]

i think you'll be very happy with the Mk25/G250V set up...i am waiting for the LDS to get some G250V octos in...otherwise, i am just gonna pick up a HOG.

 

[elan]

i think you'll be very happy with the Mk25/G250V set up...i am waiting for the LDS to get some G250V octos in...otherwise, i am just gonna pick up a HOG.

Halocline made a good point its good idea to get a second set of mk25/g250v. If you still decide just to get the second stage go with a regular stage not an octo. Its less confusing. If you can stick to one brand it will be easier down the road in terms of servicing logistics

 

[ohecht]

Hey Guys,

After reading your posts and reading more about DIR, I decided I'll get a second G250V without the additional first stage.
I plan on going tech in the future, not sure when but not in the next 2 years for sure. Therefore, the additional MK25 will be a waste at the moment as it will not be used and could use the cash I'll save by not buying it.

I will however, equip myself with a 5 ft primary hose that will be stored under my right arm, across my chest and neck as I saw on various DIR articles.
Once I'll go tech I will get an extra MK25 and once I'll get a canister light I'll change to a 7 ft hose.

Regarding the rescue course, I will check with my instructor and ask him about this setup, if he will forbid it, I'll just get the 5 ft house after I finish the course.

And lastly, regarding the wing, I am not skinny but am a bit chubby therefore I'll take the 30lb wing.

Thanks a lot for the help!

Oren.

 

[Ragnar]

If he forbids it, get a new instructor. I'm serious. For now you could also get the 7' hose you'll need later and just wear your knife on your right side to stow the hose under until you get a can light. A pocket that slips on the waistbelt would also do the trick, just something on your right side to route the hose under, may as well get used to it.

 

[elan]

If you are getting a backplate setup get a 7 ft hose, skip the 5 ft. 5ft hose gets in te way of the right d- ring and really bugs when you have to work with it. I used to have 5 ft on the single BP setup but later upgraded to 7 ft. You can put a knife on the right side and route the hose around it.

 

[Fishpie]

Another vote to go right to the 7' hose.

 

[ohecht]

Thanks guys,

I guess 7 ft hose it is