Adapter stuck on DIN reg

[JeepinDiver]

A while back I purchased a SP Mk2 DIN reg that had an XS Scuba DIN-to-yoke adapter stuck on it. I figured that I would be able to remove the adapter without much trouble. I was wrong. I cannot get this adapter to budge and I'm looking for suggestions.

I was able to remove the DIN assembly from the rest of the reg, and the yoke portion came off of the threaded part of the adapter. But the remaining 2 pieces will not separate. I'm trying very hard not to ruin either part, but I will sacrifice the adapter if I have to. Here's what I have tried so far:

- Entire remaining pieces in an ultrasonic with 50/50 solution of water/white vinegar
- Freeze parts and then dip the adapter piece in very hot water
- Little bit of PB Blaster on threads and let it sit a few min, (then cleaned again quickly)
- Pipe/monkey wrench on adapter with a rubber cushion (trying not to eat up the chrome on adapter)
- Overnight soak in plain water

So far, nothing. I've attached a couple of pics so that you can see what I'm working with. (Don't mind the haze on the metal. I took the pics after taking it out of the freezer.)

Any suggestions?

Mods, feel free to move this to the DIY section if that's where this thread belongs.

 

[kelemvor]

I had a similar problem a few years ago. Luckily I was able to get it off with a pair of vice grips a pipe wrench and liberal elbow grease. I chewed up the black plastic "handle" in your second pic when I was getting it apart. It looks slightly rough but still totally usable.

I think I remember one of the components being reverse threaded. You should be able to visually examine them to confirm/deny this before making your problem worse.

After that incident I gave up on adapters. I went to just swapping the reg over between yoke and din kits sold by the manufacturer. If you have both sets of parts, it's simple to do - even at a dive site with minimal tools from a SAD bag.

 

[grf88]

Trying to hold it to allow enough leverage to remove it is the problem. I had a similar situation and held it in a lathe chuck with soft jaws made out of copper pipe which allowed me to apply the leverage required to break it free without damaging the threads.

 

[grf88]

I know it is counterintuitive but sometimes trying to tighten the connection slightly can break the seal that is holding the threads as can tapping around the junction with something solid..

 

[rsingler]

Tap either piece briskly with a hard mallet to fracture verdigris crystals. It if there's an area you don't mind getting a flat dent, use a hammer. Strike the pieces along the longitudinal axis.
Then waste the money on enough WD-40 to either immerse the locked threads, or keep sluicing WD-40 over the crack between the parts several times a day for 4-7 days. Avoid the urge to test out any loosening. Just go away and come back.
Then use any of the non-marring disassembly suggestions above. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

 

[rhwestfall]

just keep trying all the above....

 

[Colliam7]

Lots of good suggestions. I have encountered this situation a number of times, on personal gear and customer gear. My approach is to first attempt to dissolve the crystalline build up on the threads. I have used a lubricant such as WD-40. I have also used a cleaning solution such as Crystal Simple Green, or Blue Gold. But, I prefer to use a slightly acidic hydrosonic cleaning solution (e.g. Global Scuba Manufacturing Hydrosonic Cleaner), applying a few drops to the threads with a dropper. Then I let it sit for several hours and see if that breaks the seal between the threads. Several applications are often used. If that fails, I will remove the yoke screw from the DIN-to-Yoke adapter, and put the 'A-clamp' portion of the adapter in a bench vise. I usually put aluminum magnetic jaw clamps (e.g. 2 PACK MAGNETIC VISE JAW) on the vise to minimize scratching the adapter. Then, with channel lock pliers or Vise Grips, with the jaws wrapped in electrician's tape, I turn the hand wheel on the DIN regulator to loosen the connection. In the picture, the first stage has a metal hand wheel, but many / most have plastic hand wheels which are softer, so I make sure I have a firm grip before attempting to unscrew the wheel (to avoid scoring the hand wheel).