A Tale of Two Cities (and Dive Resorts): Atlantis Puerto Galera and Buceo Anilao, January 2018

Ironborn · Feb 25, 2018

Ironborn · Feb 25, 2018

For Further Discussion

I would definitely consider repeat visits to both operators and destinations. Puerto Galera had quality diving in the urban setting that I prefer. Before I return there though, I might want to try Atlantis Dumaguete and the Atlantis Azores liveaboard. After the ordeal with my transfer, a short domestic flight to Dumaguete does not sound so bad after all, and I have other reasons to visit neighboring Cebu.

The greater diversity and complexity of Anilao makes that destination a higher priority for a repeat visit. I hope to return there when I have a better camera and more experience as a macro photographer. I would definitely stay at Buceo Anilao again, as I see no reason to consider its competitors.

I definitely want to take more dive trips to Southeast Asia in the future – the only major downside for me was the jet lag that hit me quite hard and for a long time upon my return. Indonesia, Malaysia, and the central/southern Philippines are now on my list in the long term, but my nearer-term priority is Thailand, which I have other, terrestrial reasons to visit first. I have some questions for others with more experience in the region, answers to which may also benefit other readers:

If you have been to both Atlantis resorts, which one did you prefer, and for what reasons?
How is the diving in Dumaguete and the Visayas similar to or different from that of Puerto Galera and Anilao?
If you have been to both of the top muck diving destinations of Anilao and Lembeh, which one did you prefer, and for what reasons?
Are the levels, standards, and styles of customer service that I encountered typical of dive operations in the Philippines and Southeast Asia, or just these two well-regard operations?
Are the diving conditions that I experienced typical of Southeast Asia or just that part of the Philippines? Where in Southeast Asia could I go for more Caribbean-like or aquarium-like diving conditions, e.g. warm and crystal-clear blue water with minimal current?
For North American macro photographers: where in the Caribbean or Florida do you go for macro if and when a trip to Southeast Asia is unfeasible for you? The Blue Heron Bridge?

tridacna · Feb 25, 2018

Fantastic report and pictures!

Atlantis Dumaguette has much nicer accommodation and food than Atlantis Sabang Beach. Mostly muck diving - spectacular macro photography. Mandarin Fish at night are a treat. Highlight for me were two trips to Apo Island. Worth going back for that alone. I'll also make sure that the water temps are higher next time. We were there in March - too damn cold for me.

Damselfish · Feb 25, 2018

Ironborn:
If you have been to both Atlantis resorts, which one did you prefer, and for what reasons?

How is the diving in Dumaguete and the Visayas similar to or different from that of Puerto Galera and Anilao?

If you have been to both of the top muck diving destinations of Anilao and Lembeh, which one did you prefer, and for what reasons?

Are the levels, standards, and styles of customer service that I encountered typical of dive operations in the Philippines and Southeast Asia, or just these two well-regard operations?

Are the diving conditions that I experienced typical of Southeast Asia or just that part of the Philippines? Where in Southeast Asia could I go for more Caribbean-like or aquarium-like diving conditions, e.g. warm and crystal-clear blue water with minimal current?

For North American macro photographers: where in the Caribbean or Florida do you go for macro if and when a trip to Southeast Asia is unfeasible for you? The Blue Heron Bridge?

I've been to both Atlantis resorts (as have the bunch of people who did the Scubaboard invasion there a few years ago, and perhaps a fair number of people given the way they promote them and try to make it easy.) I doubt I would return to Atlantis PG - staying in a congested urban environment that is like a dump is not my thing. And I didn't think the flintstone style rooms were too comfortable. I would look for a different sort of environment around there if it is to be found, or more likely check out Anilio sometime. I might return to Atlantis Dumaguette (really Dauin), especially if I was doing it in conjunction with their liveaboard. It was nice, and I'm more into the remote beach thing. (But we have also stayed at Pura Vida just down the beach from Atlantis, which I liked as much or more, and the diving seemed better with them. And there are a few other places around there that look nice.)

We have pretty much experienced great service everywhere we've been on 3 Philippines trips, but it's not varied enough experience to say if that is typical. I suspect it is. We had really wonky service at a resort we stayed at in Moalboal, but I think that was mostly the fault of seriously clueless owners - the people working for them generally tried their best.

I think many Caribbean places with good diving in general have the potential for good macro, but not every place focuses on it. Places that don't have bigger stuff (which is what many divers want) are more likely to tell you about their little stuff. A good critter spotting guide helps a lot until you learn what's hiding in an area. But there's probably nothing Caribbean that compares to the Philippines/Indonesia center of biodiversity. Some people swear by the macro on the south side of Roatan. St Vincent is kind of known for macro.

Centrals · Feb 25, 2018

Incredible detail report with photos to match.
Sogod Bay in Southern Leyte is my suggestion.
And don't forget Indonesia.

Wingy · Feb 25, 2018

I read every word of your very detailed trip report - glad to see the big old turtle is still there - there's just one problem - no disco clam?

You're going to have to go back

Ironborn · Feb 25, 2018

tridacna:
Atlantis Dumaguette has much nicer accommodation and food than Atlantis Sabang Beach. Mostly muck diving - spectacular macro photography. Mandarin Fish at night are a treat. Highlight for me were two trips to Apo Island. Worth going back for that alone. I'll also make sure that the water temps are higher next time. We were there in March - too damn cold for me.

I thought that the food at Atlantis Puerto Galera was great - so it must be even better at Dumaguete. The rooms could have been better, though.

How is the muck diving in Dumaguete similar to or different from what I saw in Puerto Galera and Anilao? Just somewhat different critters, or a different type of experience?

As for Apo Island - is that a special trip for which they need a certain amount of divers and with an extra fee, or do they go there for normal, routine trips?

Ironborn · Feb 25, 2018

Damselfish:
Some people swear by the macro on the south side of Roatan.

I heard about that, which is why Roatan is high on my list for new Caribbean destinations to visit. Do any of those people who swear by the macro on the south side of Roatan stay at CocoView? Was the house reef there part of what impressed them?

Ironborn · Feb 25, 2018

Wingy:
I read every word of your very detailed trip report - glad to see the big old turtle is still there - there's just one problem - no disco clam?

You're going to have to go back

Actually, I did see the electric clam. The guide seemed to know right where it was, presumably from previous dives.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Be7CMQWnC71/

So is that big old turtle a regular, familiar sight in Puerto Galera? He must be hard to miss and easy to recognize. The Atlantis guides seemed to surprised to see him and amazed at his unusual size. Is he like Ernie, the famous grouper after whom they named Ernie's Point? We saw some big groupers there, and the guides seemed surprised to see them too.

bshort4 · Feb 25, 2018

Ironborn:
I thought that the food at Atlantis Puerto Galera was great - so it must be even better at Dumaguete. The rooms could have been better, though.

How is the muck diving in Dumaguete similar to or different from what I saw in Puerto Galera and Anilao? Just somewhat different critters, or a different type of experience?

As for Apo Island - is that a special trip for which they need a certain amount of divers and with an extra fee, or do they go there for normal, routine trips?

Apo Island is about a 45 or 50 minute trip from the resorts in Dauin which is about 30 minutes south of the city of Dumaguete. It's usually done as a all day trip with three dives and lunch served on the boat---large Bankas. I've been to Puerto Galera and Dauin twice in the last two years and much prefer Dauin--the vibe in the small town suits me much better. If you want to go into Dumaguete all you need to do is hop a jeepney on the main road for 75 cents and 30 minutes later you're in town. I'm not that much into "muck" diving so I can't really compare it to Anilao--- but it's there for you to discover--I mainly go to dive Apo Island. I've stayed at Mike's Beach Resort both times I stayed in Dauin---it's just a short walk down the beach from Atlantis, not fancy but I totally loved it. Most resorts there don't go to Apo Island everyday--out of six days diving we went to Apo twice---the other days we didn't have enough people to go--I dived by myself on my first three days there--had my own guide and a huge banka boat all to myself--a little bit lonely lol. Oh forgot to tell you how much I enjoyed your review--never seen one that detailed or long before---good diving! If where you're staying in Dauin isn't going to Apo that day I'm sure you can find a resort next door that probably is--they're all lined up along the same beach there.

A Tale of Two Cities (and Dive Resorts): Atlantis Puerto Galera and Buceo Anilao, January 2018

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Ironborn

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