Thanks. Yeah, I'm not sure what kind of ground swell sneaks in there .... possibly something in the 240-250 deg range ? Now it's a different story with localized wind swell (short period energy). I've definitely seen that junk get in there.
That's a near-shore animation from Surfline's LOLA model. In my opinion, this is one of the features that really distinguishes it from the other tools. It uses all the same input sources as most of the others, but the near-shore models are superior. It does a remarkably good job of modeling many of the 2nd and 3rd order effects like shadowing , wave refraction, and other influences of the bathymetry. For So Cal, one of the things that really sets it apart is how fine-grained the resolution is. In fact it's almost too good
LOLA is a paid subscription service, but I'm in the ocean enough times per week that it's worth it to me. The long range forecasting tools help me cherry pick the days I want to track a week or more in advance; the near-shore models are fairly accurate within a 2-3 day window; links to the buoy data help me validate the accuracy of the model during the event with actual observations of swell direction, height, and period. Of course there's much more to it than just determining what the swell is doing, but I don't want to give away all my secrets
