A couple doubles questions

[Smache]

4. Weights in the pockets is kind of an open secret among some GUE communities in the NW. if yiure going to do it. I’d cave line the weights to a tiny bolt snap so you can clip them in.

5. Weight belts are under appreciated. It’s a really good place to add weight in doubles.

In the same vein, ankle weights are a great way to correct the head-heaviness with a minimal amount of lead. I used to use a 6 pound tail weight for my HP100s and a drysuit, but found that 3 pounds of ankle weight has the same effect. (Heavier fins serve the same purpose, but might not be enough.)

A lot of people aren't fans of ankle weights because they're an entanglement hazard. I personally feel the risk of this is absolutely tiny, at least with ankle weights like these Seasoft PRO Ankle Weights | Dive Right In Scuba - Plainfield, IL

 

[crofrog]

In the same vein, ankle weights are a great way to correct the head-heaviness with a minimal amount of lead. I used to use a 6 pound tail weight for my HP100s and a drysuit, but found that 3 pounds of ankle weight has the same effect. (Heavier fins serve the same purpose, but might not be enough.)

A lot of people aren't fans of ankle weights because they're an entanglement hazard. I personally feel the risk of this is absolutely tiny, at least with ankle weights like these Seasoft PRO Ankle Weights | Dive Right In Scuba - Plainfield, IL

You have to draw the line somewhere and the cons of ankle weights outweigh the pros.

You have to move that weight every time you kick and that’s not worth the extra metabolic demands. It also isn’t needed if you do all the other things.

I think weights in the pocket is a hack too, but I know people that do it.

 

[happy-diver]

In the same vein, ankle weights are a great way to correct the head-heaviness with a minimal amount of lead. I used to use a 6 pound tail weight for my HP100s and a drysuit, but found that 3 pounds of ankle weight has the same effect. (Heavier fins serve the same purpose, but might not be enough.)

A lot of people aren't fans of ankle weights because they're an entanglement hazard. I personally feel the risk of this is absolutely tiny, at least with ankle weights like these Seasoft PRO Ankle Weights | Dive Right In Scuba - Plainfield, IL

Quick go hand in your instructors ticket, do it now

 

[ChrisMBC]

FWIW, one easy thing I’ve started doing is switching to an aluminum BP instead of steel, and then adding a couple extra pounds of tail weight. I like the ‘soft’ V-weight systems that let you put weight in a Velcro pouch, just because it gives a lot of flexibility.

Also marginal gains, but I have both Worthington and Faber HP100s, and the Faber trim a little better for me as they’re longer. They’re also more buoyant, so require a few extra pounds of weight, which can be moved to the tail to help with trim.

I’ve also messed around with pocket weights, and even made weighted socks at one point when I was frustrated after Fundies. Marginal tweaks like the ones described here have all helped get my trim really dialed in. If you’re diving regularly, I’d suggest just changing one thing at a time (different locations for weight/different hoods/lengthening your should straps/different tanks), run through whatever skills test your buoyancy the most (valve drills for me!), and see the effect of each individual change.

 

[PfcAJ]

In the same vein, ankle weights are a great way to correct the head-heaviness with a minimal amount of lead. I used to use a 6 pound tail weight for my HP100s and a drysuit, but found that 3 pounds of ankle weight has the same effect. (Heavier fins serve the same purpose, but might not be enough.)

A lot of people aren't fans of ankle weights because they're an entanglement hazard. I personally feel the risk of this is absolutely tiny, at least with ankle weights like these Seasoft PRO Ankle Weights | Dive Right In Scuba - Plainfield, IL

Ankle weights?

Cmon man. Get it together.

 

[Badger7]

Also marginal gains, but I have both Worthington and Faber HP100s, and the Faber trim a little better for me as they’re longer. They’re also more buoyant, so require a few extra pounds of weight, which can be moved to the tail to help with trim.

I noticed the same, especially in a single tank configuration. The Worthingtons were both heavier and shorter, really awesome for single tank diving, but not the best attributes when doubling them up, adding a manifold, bands and another 1st stage.

If you’re diving regularly, I’d suggest just changing one thing at a time (different locations for weight/different hoods/lengthening your should straps/different tanks), run through whatever skills test your buoyancy the most (valve drills for me!), and see the effect of each individual change.

Ascents, I think its always going to be ascents. Maintaining buoyancy and trim, dumping gas from both the wing and suit, setting up the SMB, timing the ascent rate, keeping the spool taught and preventing the wind from pulling the line around my buddy is collectively my kryptonite. I practice an SMB ascent at the end of just about every fun dive, and getting slightly better over time.

I feel like I'm ready for the challenge of doubles, and not feeling any more task loaded than normal, just tweaking weight and placement to buy the luxury of taking my mind off trim for a few precious moments during tasks.

 

[Imla]

Putting on a couple thin merino wool undershirts (Ie offset tops to bottoms) can also help with the top heaviness.

Other tips are b*ttcheeks tightly squeezed. Shoulderblades raised and centered to lift arms. (This you can train on your floor at home. Lay on your stomach, lift you legs as if in trim and lift your arms paralell to the floor. T*its out, *ss in, tighten the glutes, and stretch the legs.

 

[rx7diver]

... Thanks, any thought/advice welcome, trying something new to me and would love your perspective.

What worked for me was manifolded HP100 doubles (the PST 3,500 psig ones), alum backplate, and solid Pb weights on a weight belt. DUI CF200SP (crushed neoprene), DUI Thinsulate jumpsuit, and polypro underlayer, and SP Jet Fins. Dive Rite original doubles wings (~55# positive buoyancy, I think) and Hogarthian harness.

What worked "better" for me was switching in HP120's (the PST 3,500 psig ones) for the HP100's, which allows my valves to ride "higher", which makes reaching my valves easier. Everything else remains the same. Much better (for me), except for schlepping those longer, heavier cylinders!

rx7diver

 

[Smache]

Quick go hand in your instructors ticket, do it now

Ankle weights?

Cmon man. Get it together.

Lol. I'm aware that ankle weights are hated pretty much universally. I don't get it.

Lots of divers use jet fins to make their feet heavier. Ankle weights accomplish the same thing, and with less mass on your feet since lead is more dense than jet fin rubber.

 

[SaltyWombat]

2) I'm already negative with just empty HP100 tanks, AL BP and standard kit with no lead. If I'm going further negative adding lead, should i look into changing tank sizes? Like would double HP120s which are slightly more bouyant empty, trim out better without having to add as much tailweight since they're longer? I would prefer to stick with 7" diameter tanks, as I'm rocking a 40lb wing and I can fit four 7" tanks in the bed trunk of my Ridgeline, but can't fit 117s or 130s nearly as efficiently. Up here in the midwest, getting LPs overfilled isn't really an option either.

Faber LP85s are the most popular choice for doubles here in Monterey. You can find other doubles, but Faber LP85s are the most common. We like them because they're not very negatively buoyant. This lets us use large tail weights to achieve good trim and not be overweighted.

Luckily for me, my body composition and undergarment choices allow me to use double Faber HP100s. I suspect some divers using HP100s are actually overweighted. The only way to know for sure is to do a proper weight check.