3D Printing to solve a computer part problem?

[dome]

Dome, thank you very much for your kind and generous offer, but my CAD guy has already printed a sample, made some modifications to the scan, and is now ready to send the final file to a manufacturer. If any issues pop up that he can't resolve, I will certainly take you up on your offer, but I would pay for your labor and processes.

Not a whole lot involved with printing something that's already designed and in the right file format. The threads on your cover may be a bit tricky though - for my cheap-ish printer at least.

Thingiverse has lots of scuba stuff already designed. Unfortunately no Aeris hatch covers though Search Thingiverse - Thingiverse

Good luck!

 

[Cap335]

Have you thought of going to an Aqua Lung dealer. AL now owns Pelagic who made your computer

 

[Aloha Joe]

What computer is it? It's killing me not knowing what this thing is supposed to look like.

 

[Altamira]

Have you thought of going to an Aqua Lung dealer. AL now owns Pelagic who made your computer

Someone else tried the Aqualung battery hatch cover, and it did not work. The threads are ever so slightly different. I also tried the one for the Sherwood Wisdom 3 as it looked the same as the one for the Aeris Atmos AI, but had the same thread issue as the Aqualung cover. Still working the problem.

 

[Altamira]

What computer is it? It's killing me not knowing what this thing is supposed to look like.

The computer we are discussing is the Aeris Atmos AI, and the battery hatch cover looks like the Sherwood Wisdom and Aqualung I550 covers. I had a prototype sample made, but the material was totally unsuitable because of the material's bumpy surface, so I am investigating a different material from a local CNC manufacturer after Christmas holidays.

I will keep SB posted on my progress.
Happy Holidays to all.

 

[Aloha Joe]

So it looks like this....

If I was going to use an additive process I'd look at SLA. I worked in the additive group at GE and we used SLA for 'finished' prototypes, before growing things out of metal. I don't know anything about material properties, but SLA is grown from a liquid bath and solidified by light. I feel like it's more homogeneous and continuous (ie, stronger) in addition to having the best surface finish of what I've seen of the plastic technologies.

Here's a pic of an SLA clip I found online. If you Google "SLA surface finish" you'll get similar pics.

Machining that thing could be a pain - you might have to machine the bottom/threads then flip it and do the top. Then someone's gotta spend time and figure out fixtures, datums, etc.

Another option could be to machine (or build) a 2-part mold: a bottom with the threads, and a top that has a hole (gate) for filling with epoxy. Coat the mold (insides and interfacing surfaces) with mold release, clamp top to bottom, and fill with epoxy. When it cures you separate the top/bottom and unscrew your part from the bottom.

The advantage is that you don't have to machine around that lip (which is what I think will drive you to having to flip and re-fixture the part) and you can use materials that are incredibly simple to machine. You could have someone with a hobby machine carve that out for you. There's no datums or fixturing to worry about, just a block of material and some clamps. The disadvantage is having to make the 'negative' of the model - which in my experience has been much more difficult than it should be (maybe this part is simple enough).

SLA would be much, much easier

 

[Altamira]

Joe,
Thank you very much for your comments and suggestions. I am going to print your post and show it to the manufacturing guy I will see this week or next.

 

[Aloha Joe]

My pleasure - let me/us know how it turns out. As usual there's a million ways to skin a cat, so he might have some other ideas too.