2024: view for primary/backup torches, and dive knife

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FWIW, the light I hear the most problems about is the Halcyon Focus 2. 100% of the owners I know have had problems.
Can you share more about the nature of the problems you've heard about related to the Focus 2.0?
 
FWIW, the light I hear the most problems about is the Halcyon Focus 2. 100% of the owners I know have had problems.
It's the polar opposite for me. There are 30-40 divers who I know with Focus 2.0's in my local diving community alone, and I've heard of zero issues/problems sans one defective light cord.
 
Quick note about alkaline batteries... AA, AAA and D size seem to be relatively easy to find. If your back up lights need C size, you'll probably be out of luck, or at least you will be on small Caribbean islands!

I switched to rechargeable Dive Rite backups after getting caught twice not being able to get new C batteries.
 
Anything going into a cave might be best to have a higher quality and cost primary, but could still clip off an Orca as a backup.

They work great especially for the cost
In a cave I want my backup anything to be reliable. I backup light doesn’t need to be big or super bright. But as someone who has had a real primary light fail in a cave (since replaced by a Focus 2 that has not missed a beat) I really really do not want to question whether today will be the day my button switch plays up.
In open water where a light is just to help pretty things be a bit more colourful go for it.
 
In a cave I want my backup anything to be reliable. I backup light doesn’t need to be big or super bright. But as someone who has had a real primary light fail in a cave (since replaced by a Focus 2 that has not missed a beat) I really really do not want to question whether today will be the day my button switch plays up.
In open water where a light is just to help pretty things be a bit more colourful go for it.
To each their own. Over a hundred dives with my D530 as a nose light on my scoot and never had a problem. These issues are just noise too make people spend more money. But like I said, to each their own. ymmv
 
To each their own. Over a hundred dives with my D530 as a nose light on my scoot and never had a problem. These issues are just noise too make people spend more money. But like I said, to each their own. ymmv

A backup light should be powered by alkaline batteries and have a super long burn time and a well focused beam. It doesn’t need to be super bright just bright enough to make your life easier exiting the cave.

I use to have rechargeable lights for my backup but unless you commit to charging them on a regular basis they’re not going to be ready when you need them because of self discharge. A simple c cell battery light just sits there on your harness waiting until you need it with the occasional test fire.
 
Hello there,

It's the season to clear up wardrobe and I was thinking whether or not to buy some new gears for myself and a club that I might start running with others next year. I'm starting to look for new trends on primary and backup torches since my old ones had some certain flaws that start to become unappreciated over time. After browsing so many options online I have quite a few problems:

- Power switches for torches: Previously I was told mechanical lever-based switches are the most rugged and reliable option (eg. Halcyon Focus's switch and light intensity control), or the "twist" switch where you engage battery by twisting the torch head against body (often for backup torches). However, these days I saw a large growing trends on button-based switches especially from virtually all OrcaTorch brands. Many manufacturers claimed the button is what's called a magnet-based button and is very resilient to damage and use over time. I also recently know some people (tech divers committing to some very challenging dives) recommending OrcaTorch or similar stuff themselves. May I ask if these magnet buttons are as reliable as they are advertised?

I do not like piezo switches as they’re to easy to accidentally activate. The number of times I’ve had something bump the piezo switch and change the lights brightness on the light monkey lights I’ve had are frustrating. It’d happen at least once a dive.

The halcyon focus2 style switch works pretty and locks in place. Occasionally the magnet has issues but they’re user replaceable. I have broken a halcyon switch ones by not turning it off before flying with it. In the high position there is more switch exposed than in the off position, I had unscrewed the battery and didn’t notice.

- Battery option for backups: I was told previously that rechargeable battery's lifespan deteriorated over time and non-rechargable batteries are great for backups and dive computer like Shearwater. However most torches these days rely on some Li-ion batteries that look the same as an old-school rechargeable battery - I've never seen these before, are these reliable for long-term use?

see my above reply to boarder guy. Get halcyon, light monkey or hesser c-cell backup lights and change the batteries once a year or after you’ve used it.



- Dive knife: I'm looking for an elegant piece of all-purpose knife mounted on my BP webbing's wrist band. I have already had a linecutter mounted next to my computer on right hand. I'm struggling to choose between Halcyon Explorer knife and Halcyon multi-tool - I really bloody like Halcyon explorer's look and that I could customise the knife handle myself, but Halcyon multi-tool could provide some useful utilities that many divers I know have found useful in a pitch situation. For the next year there might also be some scenarios I'll have to make "field repairs" to regulators for others next to water entry. Has anyone used both and are willing to share some thoughts?

Sorry for the long question list. Thank you in advance for any good suggestions!
The halcyon multi-tool is cool I’ve watched someone fix a regulator in a cave with it. I don’t like how big it’s personally. So I carry the explorer knife and then carry tools in my wet notes.
 
It's the polar opposite for me. There are 30-40 divers who I know with Focus 2.0's in my local diving community alone, and I've heard of zero issues/problems sans one defective light cord.

Are a lot of these dives in fresh water? Lake Washington? I believe one issue is the switch easily corrodes in saltwater.
 
Are a lot of these dives in fresh water? Lake Washington? I believe one issue is the switch easily corrodes in saltwater.

~80% ocean / ~20% fresh.

The switch (see image below) that you're referring to, a piece of Delrin containing a magnet (which activates the Hall effect sensor - light on/off), is a consumable and called out as such; most folks who I know carry spares; a simple rinsing and occasional cleaning with a toothbrush will abate most oxidization of the magnet caused by saltwater. TL;DR - it's NBD, like at all.

IMG_3087.JPG
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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