1st Stage failed service

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Why should DR replace that reg? Isn’t it an older, retired model?
Simply to get an opportunity to examine it, possibly identify the cause(s), to promote customer good will, to demonstrate exemplary customer service, and possibly to dispel the "rumor" that their first stage bodies crack without cause.
 
Why should DR replace that reg? Isn’t it an older, retired model?
I believe that any high quality manufacturer would gladly replace a 1st stage that developed cracks unless there was evidence of abuse that caused the cracks. It's just by far the cheapest and easiest way to avoid even the appearance of a quality issue. And we're not talking about a 50 year old regulator.
 
I think that most of us would love to see pictures of the cracks on this first stage. The location and appearance of the cracks should be very infomative.
 
Is it possible the service tech’s breaker bar was simply too big to accurately apply the specified torque “by feel” during reassembly? Would you recommend using an impact wrench next time? Asking for a friend. :)

34D04CF3-4D0D-4722-A188-05DF0280ED58.jpeg
 
Below is the repair manual for the RG1208. The 1208 is the same as the 1205, except the 1208 has the turret. Of the used regs I have bought and serviced, the main issues I have seen as being over tightened and would cause the body to possibly crack are on page 18, removing the din lock down screw. This screw has been so tight it has put a lot of pressure on the port tool. The other one is removing the din connector and saddle on page 20. The leverage you have here is again on the port tool. So my bet is this is where the crack will be seen and caused by the previous tech over tightening one of the other or both, or this current service tech doing it. Just my opinion and experience with regs.
 

Attachments

  • Dive Rite RG 1208 Manual.pdf
    2.7 MB · Views: 77
I am not familiar with the OPs regulator. I do own and dive a Mark 20 converted fully to Mark 25 specs and including the Service Bulletin to replace the yoke retainer. Here are the areas that could crack if over torqued (or possible a tank and regulator dropped on the deck??):



And the Service Bulletin new style retainer that cannot bottom out in the broach and cause a crack when grossly over torqued:



I am not saying the OPs regulator could not be cracked, just that there is more to the story here of how that might have come to be.


After reviewing the 1208 manual from @Beau Holden the above condition is unlikely though I suspect the web between the retainer broach threads and the HP diaphragm is by necessity fairly thin. I also note that a torque is not given for this interface in the manual.
 
My dive program had a couple of the new DR first stages crack. Because we service everything in house, we knew they had never been grossly overtightened since we actually use torque wrenches, set the to correct torque (when DR actually specifies it anyway).

Sent them back to DR, they did some investigating and determined that the two regs came from the ends of the stock bar they mill the first stages out of. They apparently didn't cut off enough of the ends before manufacturing, or it was just a bad piece to start with. DR replaced both first stages. However, both cracks were found during their first annual service.

A crack on a first stage that is that old screams of over-torquing to me.
 
The shop should arrange for dive rite to give you a new regulator. This whole story smells pretty bad to me. Either the regulator was cracked on arrival to the shop, in which case dive rite will certainly replace it, or the dive shop did something to crack it, which means they are responsible, or it's not cracked and they're just trying to sell you a new regulator. One of those three things has to be true, right? Or am I missing something.

Just another of many, many stories that make me very glad I service my own regulators.

Why would a dive shop tech have to eat it?

If I remove the brakes on your truck, and your caliper spits it's pistons out in a dozen pieces.......that's on you. Stuff happens. If you think your tech is a hammer mechanic, it's better to just try elsewhere.

The Din reg's that come unthreaded so easy, are just a silly bad design. Why isn't there a locking pin, bolt, or nut. Or spline the adapter, and bolt it down. Weird that the reg industry hasn't fixed this minor issue yet.

Had to use threadlock to keep the regs together, incase someone turns it by the body, again. Seems like the only 2 options: threadlock, or over torque.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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