Corrosion on Valves

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Bearded Diver

Contributor
Messages
168
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Location
Florida
# of dives
100 - 199
I bought two used Faber 133s and they needed a Hydro anyways. Prior to having that done, I wanted to see how easy it is to remove the corrosion on these valves. The guy left them in a dock box outside. I do not have an ultrasonic cleaner and have never taken apart a valve before. Thinking it might be worth the $30-35 to have the shop do it for me, but wouldn’t mind saving the extra money, I’m not gates after all lol. Also, the hydro stamp has rust and I’d like to clean it as best as possible prior to sealing it, any recommendations on that is greatly appreciated. Pics below.
Ps- anyone have any worry with hooking up a reg and breathing through a valve with corrosion on it, it goes way to the back of the valve, inside. Just curious has a full fill and would like to utilize it, but obviously not risking my health for a $14 fill
 

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In no particular order;

I would use the fill myself... any verdigris that did come off of the very small area inside where the DIN o-ring seals (which would little to none) would be caught by the sintered filter on your reg. I might bleed a bit of air out without the reg on first, just incase any dust or crud got down in the actual airpath of the valve.

As to cleaning it up, an ultrasonic isn't required... it just replaces a lot of elbow grease. I've rebuilt a few valves, and they aren't rocket surgery... hell, the seat is usually in good shape even.

On the rusty hydro stamp, I'd just clean it up by hand with a brass brush and some vinegar or such. Good rinse and dry, seal with your choice of product. Just go thin with whatever you use to seal it (so it doesn't look like you're trying to hide damage).

My advice is worth what you paid for it!

Respectfully,

james
 
In no particular order;

I would use the fill myself... any verdigris that did come off of the very small area inside where the DIN o-ring seals (which would little to none) would be caught by the sintered filter on your reg. I might bleed a bit of air out without the reg on first, just incase any dust or crud got down in the actual airpath of the valve.

As to cleaning it up, an ultrasonic isn't required... it just replaces a lot of elbow grease. I've rebuilt a few valves, and they aren't rocket surgery... hell, the seat is usually in good shape even.

On the rusty hydro stamp, I'd just clean it up by hand with a brass brush and some vinegar or such. Good rinse and dry, seal with your choice of product. Just go thin with whatever you use to seal it (so it doesn't look like you're trying to hide damage).

My advice is worth what you paid for it!

Respectfully,

james

Thanks James 🤘
 
Splash some vinegar around the valves brush out the threads hose off open the valves to blow out

Serviced!

Do the stamp after the hydro
 
You can buy brand new valves for $35-$50. I pretty much replace my valves every 5-7 years. When you factor in a full valve service plus burst assembly replacement, it’s cheaper to buy new valves and recycle the old for the metal.
 
You can buy brand new valves for $35-$50. I pretty much replace my valves every 5-7 years. When you factor in a full valve service plus burst assembly replacement, it’s cheaper to buy new valves and recycle the old for the metal.
These are almost $85 just want to clean them up. Now if these were really antique valves, I’d agreed with you, plus I unfortunately don’t dove enough where there is significant use to my tanks. Most diving actually happens on the west coast.
 
vinegar and a toothbrush will do wonders on the valve. Clean up the hydro mark and then paint with three layers of nail polish. You probably have everything you need at home.
 
I bought two used Faber 133s and they needed a Hydro anyways. Prior to having that done, I wanted to see how easy it is to remove the corrosion on these valves. The guy left them in a dock box outside. I do not have an ultrasonic cleaner and have never taken apart a valve before. Thinking it might be worth the $30-35 to have the shop do it for me, but wouldn’t mind saving the extra money, I’m not gates after all lol. Also, the hydro stamp has rust and I’d like to clean it as best as possible prior to sealing it, any recommendations on that is greatly appreciated. Pics below.
Ps- anyone have any worry with hooking up a reg and breathing through a valve with corrosion on it, it goes way to the back of the valve, inside. Just curious has a full fill and would like to utilize it, but obviously not risking my health for a $14 fill

Somebody definitely has to clean up the rust on the stamp before it gets a hydro and VIP so they can measure the depth of corrosion. It may or may not pass inspection. Clear nail polish gives some protection from future corrosion and allows you to see under the polish for corrosion.

You can clean up the valve external corrosion with 50:50 vinegar/water mix and scrubbing, But based on what the valve looks like externally, you should also get the valve serviced because you don't know what the internal oring and washers look like. You could do it yourself with a $15 service kit and $8 burst disk (pay attention to the torque settings) or you could just replace it with a new valve for about $50.



PS -I wouldn't connect a reg and breath from that valve. I wouldn't want my sintered filter to get clogged up with whatever is in the valve opening or inside that tank.
 
don't bother with the valves.
$35 to replace, keep the vindicators if you want.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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