To be, finger tight or wrench tight is the question ?

[captain]

Finger tight plus a 1/16th of a turn (22.5⁰) with a wrench.

Or 1/2 of a flat. 30 degrees. very easily observable.

 

[Bigbella]

Considering that metal 2nd stage housings are a distant memory, reefing down would just twist the demand valve out of the injection molded plastic housing.

Maybe @rsingler knows if a torque is specified by manufacturers?

One of my more exhaustive Poseidon manuals, lists a hose to first stage torque of 6 +/- 1 Nm; or 4.4 +/- 0.7 foot pounds -- not that much.

C'mon, you can find a couple of metal regulators, if you try . . .

 

[cathal]

I was taught Hand tight plus a quarter turn with a wrench.

 

[rjack321]

These connections from LP hose to second stage are hermaphrodites, in that they have both male and female components .

Since the O-ring of the hose slides into the barrel of the second stage, as Akimbo eloquently explains, just being a little loose does not cause an immediate leak. It must unscrew completely. This is unlike hose connections to the first stage where an extruded O-ring is immediately possible if the hose fitting backs off a little bit, it does not take much especially on the HP fittings.

James

That's the big flaw with this connection type. As the nut starts to back off it doesn't progressively leak a little more and more. It seals just fine all the way up until the critical moment when the hose and 2nd stage separate. Then you have a wildly flailing hose draining your tank with not much more than a mouthpiece left in your lips.

I ~20-40 in/lb tighten mine. Then carry a wrench to be able to fix stuff. The wrench is more or less only used above water. While bobbing on the surface of the cenote "Hey dude you have a small leak from X. Depressurize that reg and I will reseat the oring with a wrench before we go to the trouble of de-kitting and doing a full replacement"

 

[Nemrod]

That's the big flaw with this connection type. As the nut starts to back off it doesn't progressively leak a little more and more. It seals just fine all the way up until the critical moment when the hose and 2nd stage separate. Then you have a wildly flailing hose draining your tank with not much more than a mouthpiece left in your lips.

That would be most disturbing would not it be?

I guess if you can grab the hose as it went flying by it would be not that difficult to screw it back on, if you did not drown first!

James

 

[rjack321]

That would be most disturbing would not it be?

I guess if you can grab the hose as it went flying by it would be not that difficult to screw it back on, if you did not drown first!

James

If they moved the Oring down the barrel section towards the hose a few mm it would at least leak before falling off completely.

 

[Gone for diving]

If they moved the Oring down the barrel section towards the hose a few mm it would at least leak before falling off completely.

Mine does this,
and it seems to only happen on shore when I turn on the air,
It will go pop, hiss, shut off air, unthread, look at oring, thread on, go diving,
Seems the nut only backs on when it's not pressurized,

Reminds me better go check the nut,
This is an old hose end that's has no hex

 

[rjack321]

Mine does this,
and it seems to only happen on shore when I turn on the air,
It will go pop, hiss, shut off air, unthread, look at oring, thread on, go diving,
Seems the nut only backs on when it's not pressurized,

Reminds me better go check the nut,
This is an old hose end that's has no hex
View attachment 691679

Oh that is just precious, a brass hose barb and hose clamp!

 

[Gone for diving]

I figured someone would catch it,
My custom length 7'10" hose,
Some day I'll put a proper crimp on it...

 

[Nemrod]

I figured someone would catch it,
My custom length 7'10" hose,
Some day I'll put a proper crimp on it...

No, you think! This is scubaboard where we take everything apart! And you dare to post a photo of a barb end and hose clamp for your regulator hose! Dear God man, you are my hero!

James