There's a few ways you can try to get a good connection on the female leads,
I don't know the length of the Jaksa leads but you could plug them in halfway and clip on to the remaining visible portion,
or take a length of wire, strip longer than required, and double it over in a V shape, and shove that in, hopefully that would provide a good contact.
I suspect you would see that it does not have the 6v required to open the solenoid.
The firmware will not impact the function of the solenoid, but of course, newer is always better.
I believe on the Solo board you should see easily the 2 wires which go to power the solenoid, as they are thicker than the divecan wires. You could do a continuity check from those pads to the pins leading to the solenoid, and confirm if there are any wires that are not connected, possibly do a continuity check on the divecan leads, but I don't have a wiring diagram, so it would be an "elimination method" testing. You can also look for any parts where there is visible damage.
I don't know the length of the Jaksa leads but you could plug them in halfway and clip on to the remaining visible portion,
or take a length of wire, strip longer than required, and double it over in a V shape, and shove that in, hopefully that would provide a good contact.
I suspect you would see that it does not have the 6v required to open the solenoid.
The firmware will not impact the function of the solenoid, but of course, newer is always better.
I believe on the Solo board you should see easily the 2 wires which go to power the solenoid, as they are thicker than the divecan wires. You could do a continuity check from those pads to the pins leading to the solenoid, and confirm if there are any wires that are not connected, possibly do a continuity check on the divecan leads, but I don't have a wiring diagram, so it would be an "elimination method" testing. You can also look for any parts where there is visible damage.