just got a bp/w , best solution for octo?

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I won't argue your guys point of view. While numbers don't lie, they certainly aren't everything. There is plenty of headroom at 100 and more than I planned. The bladder is still flaccid while I'm neutral. scrutinizing something like this is silly when i asked about common best practices about other equipment. At least offer a solution ;) ..
 
I won't argue your guys point of view. While numbers don't lie, they certainly aren't everything. There is plenty of headroom at 100 and more than I planned. The bladder is still flaccid while I'm neutral. scrutinizing something like this is silly when i asked about common best practices about other equipment. At least offer a solution ;) ..

You know, when you post a question in a public forum, it's more like having a chat in a pub with some friends, as opposed to participating in a legal deposition. And every once in a while, you can learn something new or take a fresh look at your standard practices. I certainly have.

Most of the comments here are made by people with good intentions, not looking to "scrutinize" anyone. And sometimes, the question that you don't ask is as important as the one that you did ask.
 
I have the same rig with 45lbs wing - I keep my octo on the right chest d ring - I thought 18lbs wing was light too but if it works for you great
 
Hi Danahunt,

I am an ow diver, and just switched from the 7' long hose to the streamlined ow set-up you mentioned. The only change I made was having the under-arm hose for the primary be 48" instead of 40". Does not affect the streamlining in any way I can notice, and that extra length does make an air share easier. In practice with my buddy, I found that 48" gave plenty of room. Overall, I like it much better than wrapping the long hose around my head, and it makes a taking my gear off in the water easier (don't know if that is important to you). Also, although a bungee necklace is preferred by many here, I have gone to a silicone one, because it is easier (not "easy" but do-able) to pop the reg out of the necklace when taking the gear off in the water, with no need to pull the necklace over my head.
 
I won't argue your guys point of view. While numbers don't lie, they certainly aren't everything. There is plenty of headroom at 100 and more than I planned. The bladder is still flaccid while I'm neutral. scrutinizing something like this is silly when i asked about common best practices about other equipment. At least offer a solution ;) ..

Hey Dana, sometimes it doesn't come across very well when people post, but I think most are trying to be helpful. An 18# wing for cold water is "outside" of the norm but if when questioned you can support it, great. If you aren't diving deep and you have sufficient lift in comparison to your neg weight then you're fine.

Many on the board are familiar with a "balanced rig" and that leads to questions regarding your wing choice. If you haven't done a balanced rig calc of your gear it's something you should consider.

Here's a video I've posted many times showing why a balanced rig is important.
NOWDIVE TV Balanced rig on film - YouTube


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I won't argue your guys point of view. While numbers don't lie, they certainly aren't everything. There is plenty of headroom at 100 and more than I planned. The bladder is still flaccid while I'm neutral. scrutinizing something like this is silly when i asked about common best practices about other equipment. At least offer a solution ;) ..

did not mean to scrutinize just scared about your safety. If you are diving a 3mm wetsuit then you are good. It's just a lot of people do not understand what happens to neoprene wetsuits when they go deep. Let me explain a little before you think im lecturing. take a 7mm wetsuit for example. All the leadweight you wear has a lot to do with sinking your suit. For example, you may need as much as 10lbs lead to make a 7mm wetsuit, with hood and gloves, sink. So for example, I weigh 190lbs and with my 7mm suit, stainless steal plate (weighs 6lbs) and a weighted STA (weighs 6lbs), I need an additional 8lbs to be neutrally buoyant at the end of a dive at 15ft with an aluminum 80. This is a total of 20lbs negative buoyancy. Now, don't forget your regulator setup which also is about 4lbs negative. So now take a dive past 80ft where you lose almost all your suit buoyancy. Now your wing is responsible for lifting that 24lbs....not sure how your 18lb lift wing can support 24lbs negative. If you aren't diving below 60ft, this is not so much of an issue. Again, just looking out for your safety.

As for what others stated about switching to bungee necklace long hose setup, I say go for it. I made the switch to a 7 footer setup and couldn't be happier. The hose does not feel long at all. Actually im glad I did not go for the 5ft setup as I feel it would be too short to wrap around my body and give me enough room to still turn my head without tugging the regulator, the 7ft hose feels perfect, however many have used the 5ft hose and have loved it too. The 40in under the arm is another option. Either way, id get a bungee necklace. If you are transitioning to tech diving in the future, you may want to go straight to the 7ft setup. That is why I switched. I will be starting tech classes next spring and want to get used to the setup before then.
 
40" is the standard hose length for an octo in the traditional recreational scuba rig (right?). I'm pretty sure it's what we had when I went through Open Water training. It seems adequately long, to me, for passing to a buddy to use. If I adhere to my training for an air sharing situation, I will have one hand holding my buddy's harness while we're sharing air. Thus, I don't see why, if you reconfigure so that the 40" hose is your primary and also (still) the one you would donate, it would suddenly be not long enough.

Thus, I use and like a 40" hose with a 70 degree angle adapter on my primary reg, which is also what I would donate. And then my secondary reg on a short hose to a bungee necklace.

If I were diving in an overhead environment, where my buddy is sharing air and might have to follow (or precede) me through a restriction (e.g. a doorway on a wreck), then I would want the 7' hose. 5' would not be long enough.

To me, the 5' hose option is just extra length for no purpose. And extra length just means slightly less streamlining and slightly more risk of catching it on something.

In the interest of complete disclosure, I have been diving less than a year and have 30 dives. So, take my thoughts for what they are worth.
 
Sorry guys, my point was to stay on topic, and replying to an ot repsonse leads to more ot discussion and then I get less information on what I wanted to know.. not being snippy or rude I'm actually here to make friends ;). I duly note that there are some differences in common practices with my wing combo. Everything has been helpful thus far, even with yoyo lacking a response to my question and reinforcing the practices of balance. . I'll be sure to post up if I ever find out I need more wing and what the limit was of my current config. And even how the balance calculator works out.
 
Lol guy has a bc way way too small and he thinks that the Kind of octo is important
 
I started (my first 20 or so dives) with the "standard OW setup". Changed for a 5ft hose for the next 20 and then all the way to 7ft, which I fell is much better when deployed and routes nicely under my can light.

Regarding the wing lift you WILL need more lift, especially diving the St Lawrence Seaway when it gets colder. I thought I would have one wing set, now I have 3 wings sitting in my gear box: 1 30lbs for my warm water single and 2 doubles wings ;)
 

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