Halcyon Infinity weight setup.

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a_eriley

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Hi, have only just taken up diving (diving for lobster and also for scenery in 13 -18 deg c) and am currently using 12lb of wieght in the ACB intergrated weight pouches and 12lb on a quick release weight belt. Weight belt is annoying as it is difficult to put on without help due to having to tuck it up under the wing. Hoping to ditch the weight and go for 12lb fixed and continue to use the 12lb releasable on the intergrated pouches.

Question 1 - If i use the 6lb STA adapter and spread 6lb across trim weight pouches on the tank (therefore 12lb fixed and 12lb releasable), will the 12lb on my weight pouches on the front be enough removable weight in an emergency? I dive in a 7mm semidry and currently no deeper than 18m/70 odd feet

Question 2 - Has anyone had the unfortunate experience of having to release the front weights from the halcyon system at 20m/80 feet or more, and if so were the buckles easy to find and release when in that situation.

Also any other options that may be better than what im looking at, given in mind that i want it streamlined, safe and have thought off the trim weights to aid in better flotation on the surface.

Thanks for your time
 
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Question 1 - If i use the 6lb STA adapter and spread 6lb across trim weight pouches on the tank (therefore 12lb fixed and 12lb releasable), will the 12lb on my weight pouches on the front be enough removable weight in an emergency? I dive in a 7mm semidry and currently no deeper than 18m/70 odd feet

12-lbs (in this case half your dive weight) is a significant amount of weight. Yes, I think that you'd be safe ditching that much weight and then swim up. ASSUMING that you actually need 24-lbs of ballast to dive. Because to me right now you're diving with 30-lbs and not 24-lbs. You need to take in the 6lbs worth of ballast from the steel Halcyon backplate as well. Or are you using aluminum backplate? I don't know how you're built or what tank you use, but at first blush, 30-lbs of ballast is a lot of weight for a diver in 7mm suit and single tank.

I am male, not in great shape (5ft6/1.65m, 205-lbs/93-kg), diving in a single piece 7mm wetsuit and my ballast is 16-lbs. In my current diving configuration, I use a Worthington X7-series steel HP80 (80-cuft), and I need 4-lbs of weight - 2lbs per pouch on my Infinity with steel backplate and non-weighted STA.

Question 2 - Has anyone had the unfortunate experience of having to release the front weights from the halcyon system at 20m/80 feet or more, and if so were the buckles easy to find and release when in that situation.

I don't have an "unfortunate experience", but I do practice ditching my weights with the Infinity. I am fat, out of shape and don't have a lot of dexterity in my 7mm suit, but I can reach back and release the weight. I'd suggest painting the buckles in some visibile colors like white or yellow so that your buddy knows where to ditch the weight.

Also any other options that may be better than what im looking at, given in mind that i want it streamlined, safe and have thought off the trim weights to aid in better flotation on the surface.

Thanks for your time

What does trim weight have to do with flotation on the surface? You should need no or little air in your BC at the end of the dive to float on the surface. If you need a lot of air to float on the surface, then you might be overloaded.
 
If you balance nicely as you are, why not just put the weight belt on first, and under the harness? That's what I do, and it's no pain at all. It's even still ditchable, should you find yourself at the surface needed to be buoyant.
 
Thanks for the excellent detailed reply.

ASSUMING that you actually need 24-lbs of ballast to dive. Because to me right now you're diving with 30-lbs and not 24-lbs. You need to take in the 6lbs worth of ballast from the steel Halcyon backplate as well. Or are you using aluminum backplate? I don't know how you're built or what tank you use, but at first blush, 30-lbs of ballast is a lot of weight for a diver in 7mm suit and single tank.

Im glad you pointed out possible excess weight : I am about 5ft10 and 90kg, I do have a S/S backplate but not sure what size it is, think it is small. But i do have a 40lb donut, maybe i should have gone 30lb, not sure how much this would help? Iwent the 40lb as i asked the diveshop if this could take 2 tanks if i happen to get a twin tank adapter down the track, think i was looking to future proof for deeper dives. I do seem to have to really shake the exhaust hose, even with my 24lb to start to decend heads up.

1. My hood may be too large too large , i have to burp it before entry and even then air is still trapped, may have to buy the next size down.

2. I am working through equalizing issues (barotrauma in left ear on my first dive) , so at the moment i cant duck dive down the first 2 - 3 metres, have to decend head up (need more weight). Hopefully can duck dive soon and this will help lighten the weight im told, would this help?

3. I have mainly been diving with Alum tanks, not sure what size but they hold 200Bar. I am looking at possibly buying steel tanks as i am fishing in only 2-5m of H20 at the moment (will only be diving to around 10-15m max) and when the Alum tanks are getting low im having issues staying down. Hopefully the steel will help cut my weight down and also help with bouyancy issues when air getting lower?


but I can reach back and release the weight. I'd suggest painting the buckles in some visibile colors like white or yellow so that your buddy knows where to ditch the weight.

Thats handy to know that you can reach back and release the trim weights that are on your tank i presume? The shallow dives i have been doing solo at times due to convenience. Also great idea to colour them for when i do dive with someone.


What does trim weight have to do with flotation on the surface? You should need no or little air in your BC at the end of the dive to float on the surface. If you need a lot of air to float on the surface, then you might be overloaded.

As quoted from the Halcyon website "While at the surface Halcyon trim weights promote a heads up position, counteracting the positive tendency of bouyant cylinders. These same weights support a horizontal position while under water, reducing effort and ecouraging diving fun".
At the moment i have to arch the back and use my flippers to stop moving face foward to the H20. Perhaps when i get a steel tank it may be better though.
If in an emergency it is also helpful to be floating with face out of H20.

---------- Post added February 11th, 2014 at 09:20 AM ----------

If you balance nicely as you are, why not just put the weight belt on first, and under the harness? That's what I do, and it's no pain at all. It's even still ditchable, should you find yourself at the surface needed to be buoyant.

Weightbelt doesnt seem to fit well and would prefer to go with intergrated as long as there is no compromise safety wise.
 
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Yeaaa... If your LDS told you that you could dive doubles with the Eclipse, they lied. While I'm sure it COULD be done, the Eclipse is a single tank wing.

I really wouldn't worry about staying face out of the water, just don't overinflate the BC and lay on your back. I am pretty sure trim weights won't do much to keep you upright at the surface unless you had a ton of weight. Put it this way, if you're vertical at the surface, the same will happen when you're submerged.

I am 165 lbs and dive with a SS BP, AL80, and STA without weight. This is in a 4/3 wetsuit, 5/3mm hood.
 
Im glad you pointed out possible excess weight : I am about 5ft10 and 90kg, I do have a S/S backplate but not sure what size it is, think it is small.

If it's a Halcyon plate, then it's probably the standard plate and if it's made out of stainless steel then it should weigh around 6-lbs, which should translate to your dive weight ballast.

But i do have a 40lb donut, maybe i should have gone 30lb, not sure how much this would help? Iwent the 40lb as i asked the diveshop if this could take 2 tanks if i happen to get a twin tank adapter down the track, think i was looking to future proof for deeper dives.

40-lbs lift is generally too much for one tank unless you want to pile on a bunch of scallops of shellfish in a game bag and use your BC to lift it up instead of a lift bag. 30-lbs lift is usually right for a single tank in cold water.

I do seem to have to really shake the exhaust hose, even with my 24lb to start to decend heads up.

Yep, air trapped in the too large wing.

1. My hood may be too large too large , i have to burp it before entry and even then air is still trapped, may have to buy the next size down.

Not enough to affect buoyancy or trim. Drill (or burn) a couple of holes at the top of the hood and the air will vent out. Take a screwdriver and a butane torch or propane torch. Heat the screwdriver up until about two inches of the tip is red hot and burn through the top of the hood.

2. I am working through equalizing issues (barotrauma in left ear on my first dive) , so at the moment i cant duck dive down the first 2 - 3 metres, have to decend head up (need more weight). Hopefully can duck dive soon and this will help lighten the weight im told, would this help?

Yes and no. Yes, you can duck dive (aka pike dive) and save some weight but not by much, a couple of pounds at most. And then you may risk being too light for end of dive safety stop. If weighted properly, you should be able to sink very, very, very slowly when you fully exhale in a vertical position. That way you can equalize for the first 10-ft or so, then you'd flip horizontal and do a horizontal descend.

3. I have mainly been diving with Alum tanks, not sure what size but they hold 200Bar. I am looking at possibly buying steel tanks as i am fishing in only 2-5m of H20 at the moment (will only be diving to around 10-15m max) and when the Alum tanks are getting low im having issues staying down. Hopefully the steel will help cut my weight down and also help with bouyancy issues when air getting lower?

Chances are the tanks you're using are colloquially known as Aluminum 80 (80-cubic feet in American parlance). As I understand it, the rest of the world use "liter" for tank displacement - actual tank displacement, that is. Typically it's about 10-liters and 207-bars equal to roughly 3000-psi. Another general rule of thumb is that a typical Al80 tank is positively buoyant when empty. That's why you have issues with staying down when your Al80 tank runs low. Not all Al80 tanks are this way, Worthington has a neutrally buoyant Al80 (-0.1lbs , so effectively it's 0-lbs in buoyancy characteristics).

As far as steel tanks may help you with not floating up when running low...yes and no. Depends on the steel tanks that you pick. Believe it or not, some steel tanks are positively buoyant. A Faber low pressure 85-cubic feet tank is actually +2.32lbs buoyant. Almost as bad as a typical Al80 tank. Don't take anybody's words for it, ask to see manufacturer's cylinder specifications & characteristics charts.


Thats handy to know that you can reach back and release the trim weights that are on your tank i presume? The shallow dives i have been doing solo at times due to convenience. Also great idea to colour them for when i do dive with someone.

Unless you have the arms and dexterity of an orangutan, I don't think that you can reach back and release the trim weights that are attached to your tank straps. I meant that you can reach back and dump the weights in your Infinity's belt mounted weight pouches.


As quoted from the Halcyon website "While at the surface Halcyon trim weights promote a heads up position, counteracting the positive tendency of bouyant cylinders. These same weights support a horizontal position while under water, reducing effort and ecouraging diving fun".

Use negatively buoyant steel tanks. End of problem. :D
At the moment i have to arch the back and use my flippers to stop moving face foward to the H20. Perhaps when i get a steel tank it may be better though.

Maybe it's your trim weight (or lack thereof), maybe it's the aluminum tank that acts like a balloon on your back, or maybe you have too much air in your BC on the surface. It's hard to make a diagnosis without seeing you in the water. I am fairly convinced that you have too much weight though. 30-lbs even take into account of an aluminum tank is a lot of weight for a 7mm wetsuit and single tank configuration. I doubt that you have more body fat than me, especially you're taller by 4-inches.

If in an emergency it is also helpful to be floating with face out of H20.

The beautiful thing about a BPW is that you can arch all the way back and float on your back well out of the water if you fully inflate the BC. I've done it before. It's like you're floating on a raft while facing the sky.

---------- Post added February 11th, 2014 at 09:20 AM ----------



Weightbelt doesnt seem to fit well and would prefer to go with intergrated as long as there is no compromise safety wise.

Believe you me, I know the feeling about weight belts not fitting well because of my girth. If you select your tank carefully, I see no reason that you cannot use the integrated weight pouches that are part of the Halcyon Infinity package. These weight pouches are good for 5-lbs/each side for a total of 10-lbs.

I think that you really need to double check your dive weight. Go out with your wetsuit/snorkel/mask/fins and weight yourself with a weight belt, putting in weights until you float eye level to the water with a lungful of air. Whatever gear configuration you use, the negative buoyancy should equal to this pre-determined weight of you in your wetsuit.

Also, know what material your backplate is made out of, is it steel or is it aluminum?
 
Have to thank everyone for the info especially fnfalman with the detailed description, will look at checking out steel tanks and hpefully get a negative buoyant one when empty. Wishing i had of got the 30lb donut but , would cost me a bit to change over now. Might order the trim weitghts and leave the expensive STA weight for now and see how i go.
 
Might order the trim weitghts and leave the expensive STA weight for now and see how i go.

Get some generic nylon dive pouch that would fit on your tank straps. They may not be as cool as the Blue Halcyon marked ones, but they will work for a fraction of the price. Then you can put in either soft weight or hard weight AND you can take the weights off after the dive so that you don't have to haul a BC that weighs 20-lbs. ;)
 

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