BP/W Riding up.

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You can't fit a HOG harness properly out of the water... It doesn't work. You can move D-rings around and what not and get things like strap length, but the determining factor is in the water. If you needed 18lbs then 10 is right, 6lb plate, 2 lb STA. If the cam bands were plastic on your old one and metal here, that's another 2lbs there. If I were you I'd hop in a pool with your wetsuit on and instead of wearing a weight belt normally, put the weights equally separated on the belt. Descent and dump all of the air out of the bc. Hold onto the free end of the belt and you'll see how much weight you pull up. That's what you need. Do this at the end of your pool dive btw so you have a low tank. 400-500psi or whatever your normal surfacing pressure is. Shouldn't matter much with a steel tank, the more weight you pluck off the better...
 
Great idea Andy. I'll give that shot tomorrow, before I get it into the pool. :)
 
Dove with 10 lbs on belt cuz I'm used to diving about 18 lbs in my other BCD. So I figured, 6 lbs for plate, plus 10 lbs on belt should get me down. Maybe this in fact, is too much for this type of set up. Lots of trial and error in my future it seems.

Less material on the wing compared to your old BCD = less positive buoyancy.

Even better, get a photo of your rig in the water. Like saxplayer said, you can't fit a rig out of the water.
 
I think my Nomad is easily about 2-3lbs more positive than a stripped down harness. Padded backpad and the shoulder pads are main culprits. Not a problem for me because I still sink without a weightbelt, so it actually helps, but you need to do a proper weight check. I know you have a bunch of dives under your belt, but the majority of divers dive overweighted, and the more weight you take off the better.

Some of them mentioned trim weights. You should be able to trim without any trim weights. With a BP/W I'd just get a weighted STA and be done with it. If you weight yourself properly, there's no reason you should need ditchable weight. In a HOG harness it's easy and fast enough to cut the sucker off with trauma sheers anyway. A 7mm with a 3mm hooded vest shouldn't take that much weight. Not sure what you look like, so if you're normally pretty buoyant then that may explain it, but if you have the Halcyon SS STA and metal cam bands, I can't imagine you needing any more than 2-4 lbs MAX if anything. I dive mine with a HP120, 5mm suit and 5mm hooded vest, and don't wear a weight belt. The 120's and 100's have the same buoyancy characteristics. I sink naturally, and by the end of the dive *300 ish psi* there is no air in the bc and I'm breathing normal. So if you normally float, then 2-4lbs should be all you need.

You'd really be best off to do a full check in a pool if you have access to one. Take the empty ish tank. About 200-300psi lower than you usually surface with. For me that's 200 psi. Have a bunch of 1 lb weights laying around if you have access to them, if not get the smallest weights you have. I'd try to get two 1lb weights and four 2lb weights.
Dump all the air out of the BC and make sure the suit is flooded all the way
Hold the buckle of the weight belt and have your buddy slide weights down there one at a time.
Starting with the 1lb weights.
Exhale all the way, then take a normal breath. If you get your head just submerged you're perfect. This is so you're perfectly neutral for your safety stop at 10-15 feet.
Keep experimenting with this. If anything you should only be a pound heavy at that point. Keep in mind, with 100cf of air, you'll be 7lbs heavy at the beginning of the dive vs the end, hence why you don't weight check at the beginning, and try to do it at a pool if at all possible.

You'll find that as you get used to this whole BP/W deally you'll probably shed a pound or two of lead by this time next year. I reweight myself fairly regularly. I do mine a little weird though. I weight check myself in a bathing suit, then I weight check each of my suits on their own, and know the buoyancy specs of my tank and regs, then do the math. It saves a lot of time in the long run, and that way there's no "did I get all the air out of my BC", or "was my suit flooded" etc etc.

Always makes me that much more of my breathing especially at the stops because if you overbreath you'll rocked up
 
. I guess the first thing I need to look at is the crotch strap. I'll see if that helps. Another problem I had, was since the rig was so high up on my back, I could hardly reach my spg on my left side. It was in a weird place, and hard to unclip. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get it in line... Need it good to go for Sat. on Catalina.

Thanks again, everyone. I really appreciate the assistance.

This makes me think you need to lengthen the shoulder straps and shorten the crotch strap. Your waist belt should ride about the same spot as a weight belt, not way up high like a standard BC cummerbund does.
 
The second half of this page where it talks about adjusting might help

I went through this on my first cert dive with a hollis elite II harness until I loosened the shoulders a bit and tightened the belt+crotch strap as mentioned in this thread. The second dive was a lot better once those adjustments were made.

Also as mentioned here, I found it helps to keep the waist belt slightly loose until in the water.
 
**UPDATE**

Spent some time in the pool today and made some adjustments. First off, the trim issue was definitely a weight issue. I got down to 4 lbs on the belt with a 7mm suit, etc... in the pool. So I'm sure at 10 lbs in the ocean yesterday, I was a bit over-weighted.

I took the advice given here and made some adjustments to the harness as well. I lengthened the shoulder straps and tightened the crotch strap as suggested. The tank still rode up pretty high regardless, and the shoulder straps were so lose I could've swam out of the rig with little effort. Also, this caused the entire rig to shift when I would rotate to the side. So I tightened them back up a bit. Again, no change in the plate/tank position. I'm not sure what to do at this point, other than continue to mess with it. Is it just me, or is the first stage supposed to be at your head? I can reach my tank valve, so that's cool, but I can't look forward without my head hitting the 1st stage.

I setup a cam on a small tripod, and captured video of me swimming around after making various adjustments. I'm processing that now, and will include the link as soon as I get it done, and uploaded. I appreciate all the help thus far. Thanks!!

Dan
 
I find that my 1st stage tends to lie 'snug' around the level of my upper neck. When I am in horizontal trim, I can definitely feel it there.

I think the photos below illustrate where it lies....

5021419505_5933b02428_z.jpg
5021419503_3a20f3595a_z.jpg
 
**UPDATE**

I took the advice given here and made some adjustments to the harness as well. I lengthened the shoulder straps and tightened the crotch strap as suggested. The tank still rode up pretty high regardless, and the shoulder straps were so lose I could've swam out of the rig with little effort. Also, this caused the entire rig to shift when I would rotate to the side. So I tightened them back up a bit. Again, no change in the plate/tank position. I'm not sure what to do at this point, other than continue to mess with it. Is it just me, or is the first stage supposed to be at your head? I can reach my tank valve, so that's cool, but I can't look forward without my head hitting the 1st stage.
Dan

The crotch strap should come up to about the bottom of the waist belt when it is adjusted to fit properly over your exposure protection. That's at least the baseline, small adjustments can be made from there. I also tend to go in "tight" on the harness, then adjust it out a bit once I'm neutral underwater, along with a weight belt if I am wearing one.

The first stage should be felt in the back of your head when you are looking forward, but should not be a hindrance to doing so. Are you using an STA? If so, it may be possible to remove it and mount the tank lower on the plate using the camband slots on the plate, and just securing the wing with sex bolts. If you aren't using an STA, using one could push the tank higher and give you more headroom.

Peace,
Greg
 
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