Intova 3W LED Dive Light?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Cool beans. Just saw this thread and picked one up off of Buy.com for $32 (including shipping).
Thanks. :)
 
Did you use any type of sealant when you reassembled it, or is it tight enough to just push it back together and leave it?
2 machined grooves in threads hold O rings, and a gasket at base ...
I used silicone grease on the threads/O rings to make sure that they dont want to climb out of place when putting it back together .. it takes some fiddling to make sure your not cross threading it when installing the head to the body .. just gently experiment with it, it will line up all of a sudden
 
can you guys post a side-by-side comparison once you are done "upgrading," this seems like a pretty cool project. What do you expect the burn time to be with the ~200lm LED?
 
...the thin key ring that holds the lanyard.

You would need to replace it as it is extremely frail....

Are we talking the same light?

I have no key ring on mine, it is a good lanyard threaded through a hole in a very strong look part of the screw off cap. I just trie ripping it off about 5 times, did not give a a fraction of an inch...

Z..
 
mine had a wimpy key ring in the center protrusion on the cap, if I keep the lanyard, I will thread it through one of the bigger holes around the perimiter of the cap
 

I just ordered one of each of the 75, 135, 170 Lumens LEDs (note: the 75Lum star I got here, #5027-PW12 is different than the one I had listed before, #5027-PW14 .. the PW12 is the one rated at 700ma)
It says it may take quite a while to ship some of them, I'll let you know how it goes
 
D_B; I went at the light this weekend, trying to unscrew the head, but no luck. Large strap wrenches, padded bench vise = no luck so far. So, is the head screwed on with fine thread similar to the tail cap? And sealed with a couple of o-rings?

It's odd that the head is on so tight on mine. I'm wondering if there has been a design change in the light; mine came with the lanyard threaded through the quite sturdy post in the center of the tailcap.

Of course, I realize that the head must be a separate part - no way to get lens, LED, control circuit etc. in through the tail. But really, when I look at the head/body junction, it might as well be one part, that's how tight it is. Maybe they've started to use thread locker or some such when assembling the head.

Where did you order the LEDs if I may ask?

Henrik
 
It could be that it's that tight
Threads similar to tailcap, 2 O rings on threads and rubber gasket at base .. you can not see the threads but the large (2"?) part of the head with the machined grooves is the part that turns

LEDs ordered from the above site, Luxeon LEDs - Products & Accessories
 
It could be that it's that tight
Threads similar to tailcap, 2 O rings on threads and rubber gasket at base .. you can not see the threads but the large (2"?) part of the head with the machined grooves is the part that turns[/url]

Thanks for the info. How difficult was it to unscrew the head on your light?

I got to the point where I was afraid I was going to deform the battery cylinder of the light before I gave up. I'll give it a shot of PB Blaster tonight and see if it loosens up.

Suggestion: if you buy extra "star" bases without an LED mounted, you could solder your own complete stars and have an easier time swapping emitters.

Henrik
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom