Reg Servicing Blunders

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Dude WD40 is a con job
Hammer time on its own didn’t work
ECF90108-34C1-40CC-BC81-7757FA69C4D7.jpeg


It took all of them together, WD40, cold/hot (along with the „foot pound“ method— inspired by you) to finally get it free

Mind you this is a half a kilo hammer

I might need to invest in a fancy vice grip (one of these auto sliding ones) and a breaker bar for the next corroded reg from hell
 
I did some brute mistakes servicing reg (my regs, the regs of the school where I teach, friends, and casual customers)
- I've broken the lever of my Dacor Pacer second stage (perhaps there was a material defect that led to the broken lever).
Dacor Pacer lever.jpg

- I've fried a compass sphere submerging a console in boiling water to remove the SPG. The compass sphere melted and deformed.
- I've burned a plastic second stage when I submerged it in boiling water to remove the rubber exhaust deflector. I've forgoten the jar in the fire, the water evaporated and all melted and burned.
- I've broken the pin of a BCD Inflator valve male Quick Disconnect by trying to unscrew from it. The QD was all round and has no way to attach a wrench (bad design).
QD.jpg

- i've cracked the plastic inlet of a second stage trying to remove the inlet nut. The second stage has not seen service since a lot of years, so it was almost welded. I could solve the issue with an insert.
IMG_3443.JPG


Those are the ones I remember. Perhaps there are a few more.
 
lookie what I found (an oceanic mk5 clone that came with a 40€ g250 on ebay)View attachment 910286

Now this reg spent around 4 month going back and forth between the freezer and boiling water, a few rounds soaking in WD40 (ambient chamber and the yoke nut were both infinitely stuck)

I’ve never seen corrosion so bad it turns blue (ok I’ve seen that on Anodized Aluminum, but never that much as well) — I’m sure I’ll end up with almost no chrome

But the cherry on top:
Someone decided a cutout of a plastic bag would be a good tolerance shim between the turret and the ambient chamber— or is that by design?

Edit: I’m the idiot, the blue is some sort of paint, maybe scratch proofing?
Yes,the shims of Oceanic old 1sts are blue coated ( if you need some,I have some), to remove them you have to blow with an air tool into the chamber, they sit pretty tight.......
 
And if you envision having opening issues put the whole reg 1st or 2nd or valve in the ultramashine

Pre disassembly so it's easier to disassemble it




One for the butchers and the not the butchers


If you only have a small vice or using your hands with no vice at all you can only do tiny jobs so invest





Splurge on, work on your house and car too, become a hero in the eyes of your family

Regs are made from solid brass not rice paper


 
The primary regulator service blunder is not taking a just serviced regulator for a pool dive or local test dive before departing on an expensive dive trip.
 
It is actually the well meaning diver taking their perfectly functioning reg
to the technician just before the trip so as to avoid any issues on the trip
 
I've burned a plastic second stage when I submerged it in boiling water to remove the rubber exhaust deflector. I've forgoten the jar in the fire, the water evaporated and all melted and burned.
Oh my, this takes the cake
 
Yes,the shims of Oceanic old 1sts are blue coated ( if you need some,I have some), to remove them you have to blow with an air tool into the chamber, they sit pretty tight.......
Oh thanks alot for the offer; I mainly opened it out of interest (I bought it for the g250 attached to it)
I might scavenge the piston for an mk5 (if they match)
(Btw sorry I was overwhelmed with prepping a big batch of mk20s for an instructor friend, I didn’t get to your PM)

Speaking of mk20s, finally hit 2-tone blue corrosion:
1213322C-ADAB-40CE-AEF7-25D87A55B328.jpeg
 

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