Tips for backmounting an AL19 pony?

[afieldofblue]

There's no right or wrong, however your stubborn and closeminded attitude doesn't do you any favors. You've chosen to disregard a proven and superior technique because you have decided, without even trying it, that it won't work for you.

A constant in many threads besides the highly opinionated answers is that often a person will start a thread and ask the wrong question expecting to get right answers that support their often incorrect way of thinking and get defensive when few or none agree with their suggested technique.

Fair enough. I'm not sure if you consider my thread a "wrong question" reflecting an "incorrect way of thinking" as well, but in any case, I think you've made your point.

Thank you again for sharing your feedback, views, and experience — especially about your transition from a backmounted to a slung pony — which I'll keep in mind.

This might be me being stubborn and closed-minded again, but I'll personally stick to discussions focused on the thread topic, which is advice on actual backmounting systems people use.
There have been quite a lot of useful and practical contributions, covering 4 distinct backmounting systems so far.
Meaning I'll deliberately avoid taking part in slinging vs. backmount vs. sidemount vs. twinsets debates altogether from now on, as I think pretty much all has been said.

Our differences don't have to divide us.


Cheers.

 

[halocline]

I’ve read through this whole thread now and wasn’t going to comment until I saw the photo of your BC. If you want to get rid of clutter around your torso, and have the cleanest possible chest/front area, I would suggest getting a compact BP/W set up with a simple, one piece webbing harness.

Then for your regulator, you might actually consider using a double hose. I know that will sound nutty, but if there’s a way to try diving with one, you’ll find that having the entire regulator and exhaust bubbles behind your head is a revelation for close up photography.

Those two things would dramatically clear out stuff in your chest/torso/facial area. There would be nothing in those areas other than webbing, a couple of D-rings, and the mouthpiece from the DH.

Then you want some redundancy. I’m not sure why (you haven’t specified) but that’s ok. Given the restraints your are putting on slinging a bailout bottle, I would consider using something like a AL30 or 40, not quite filled, like maybe around 2000 PSI. That would make the tank a little butt-light but still have way, way more than enough gas to get you to the surface. Then you use a bungee neck leash to clip the tank to your butt D ring, or if the single tank prevents that, find another clipping point behind you, and let it ride behind you sort of like a tail would if humans had tails. This is a common practice for carrying less than full stages and deco bottles. It doesn’t roll you to the side, it is easy to get to, and it’s completely out of the way for what you want to do.

You keep asking for a way to hard mount a pony on your back, and several experienced divers, myself included, just don’t think that’s a good practice period. So my advice, like it or not, is to re-think what it is you are actually trying to accomplish and find a solution that other types of divers have already proven works.

 

[afieldofblue]

I also shoot lots of video, from shore, solo, and back mount an AL19 on a Shark pony bracket. Solid, easy to mount and out of the way.

As a follow-up question, how height adjustable is the Shark bracket? I've been looking at the pics and it's a little difficult to understand what flexibility the metal rod connected to the tank valve offers in terms of primary tank height/design.
Thanks

 

[afieldofblue]

Slingshot mount is the best imo. The base stays attached to your can band and the mount is attached to your pony. You can swap tanks without having to change your mount system over to the new tank or having a 2nd/3rd base for the system to use on different tanks. I mount mine upside down so I can manipulate the valve if every needed. I also put a hose keeper at the mount to run the 36" hose up the tank and then under my right arm. The reg is then clipped to my right shoulder d-ring. This keeps it tight and I can pull the hose to release it when needed.

View attachment 895537View attachment 895538View attachment 895539View attachment 895540

On this design, how stable is the mount's single attachment point?
I'm trying to understand why the Shark design has a rigid bar linking to the valve for a dual connection point whereas Quickdraw style mounts have a single one. No wobblies?
Has anyone tried both Shark and Quickdraw mounts?

Slider-type attachement mounts cover a longer surface area, so I can see how that would work to stabilise the rig, but less sure how it works for the Quickdraw's single connection point.

thanks!

 

[johndiver999]

Possibly another point to consider, what depth is the OP intending to dive?

If it is relatively shallow like 60 feet or something, a case could be made that a 6 cuft pony will be enough to get to the surface (if no safety stop is required in an emergency). The variability in primary tank length and potential conflict with the cam band(s) from the BC can become an issue, especially with really short (primary) tanks. So if a 6 (versus a 19) could be justified, the back mounting options might become easier, since a tiny tank should be able to fit with a single attachment placed almost anywhere and stability of the mount becomes much less of an issue.

Don't want to take it off topic and tell you to sling the bottle, like some others have done.

 

[1fspeed]

As a follow-up question, how height adjustable is the Shark bracket? I've been looking at the pics and it's a little difficult to understand what flexibility the metal rod connected to the tank valve offers in terms of primary tank height/design.
Thanks

Here a video showing what I'd do a poor job of communicating in multiple paragraphs

 

[johndiver999]

Here a video showing what I'd do a poor job of communicating in multiple paragraphs

That looks terrible! You have to bend down and work that strap closed at the bottom of the tank on a rocking boat? LOL. The guy could barely do it when the tank was elevated on a table!

 

[Boarderguy]

On this design, how stable is the mount's single attachment point?
I'm trying to understand why the Shark design has a rigid bar linking to the valve for a dual connection point whereas Quickdraw style mounts have a single one. No wobblies?
Has anyone tried both Shark and Quickdraw mounts?

Slider-type attachement mounts cover a longer surface area, so I can see how that would work to stabilise the rig, but less sure how it works for the Quickdraw's single connection point.

thanks!

It's rock solid! I don't go in the water without my pony regardless of dive plan. Even on doubles I still sling a 40. The spare tank is my best friend and more loyal than my wife.

There is zero movement felt or imagined with the quick draw system. The pins are quite solid and a near perfect fit. I can get the tank to jostle a little bit by hand but it doesn't equate to movement in the water or when walking.

 

[Nemrod]

The spare tank is my best friend and more loyal than my wife.

I have seen people use an old STA. Cut a second set of slots, mount it to the tank cambands and then the mini-cambands (or adjustable screw clamps covered then with 20-23mm racing bicycle tube) through the newly cut slots for the pony.

My ID doubles still has a 30cf pony mounted using an old STA. But I mostly sling now, easier for me usually.

 

[grantmac]

With correctly side mounted tanks I can touch my dpv D ring or drysuit inflator to the bottom before any other piece of gear makes contact.

My experience with diving in Japan is that the skill level was very low and equipment was poorly managed. So I have no doubt the OP simply hasn't seen things done very well.