There is no lock for the CX3 and that is probably its main downfall. It's dangerously close to the perfect backup light, but not there yet. It also has to cycle through the strobe which is annoying, but fortunately, that function disappears after five seconds of continued use. On a positive note, the magnetic switch is very firm and takes a solid push to activate. I don't envision it activating by itself in a gear bag because of its small size, it being somewhat recessed, and the force it takes to activate, but I strongly dislike this failure point as I'd rather have the manually rotating/locking switch that Xtar uses. I have not seen a better application yet than Xtar's rotating/locking magnetic switch. In sum, this failure point is unacceptable on the CX3, but I still bought two of them, anyway.
The other main problem is the diameter of the light body was intentionally made unnecessarily larger to accommodate Dive Rite's QRM system with only two holes in the body. What Dive Rite should have done was create a flat mount on the bottom of the light body (for the QRM system) rather than making the entire light body much thicker (and heavier) to accommodate the length of the two screws. As a result, the diameter of the light is ridiculously wide for accommodating a 21700 battery. It is as thick (and actually thicker) as lights that house a 26650 battery. This also is unacceptable, as a light should be designed as small as possible for streamlining and weight. Notwithstanding those problems, the CX3 is still dangerously close to the perfect backup light for design, lumens, battery longevity, ability to use with the QRM system, and magnetic charging.
Yep.
Dangerously close. lol! It definitely needs a reliable, MECHANICAL lock.
It didn't occur to me that it was wider than necessary because of the QRM footprint. I agree that that is annoying. However, I don't think the light head is any wider than, for example, my DGX700 lights. The body is not fatter than the light head. So, overall, while thinner and lighter would be nice, I'm totally okay with how thin/fat it is.
I've even grown to be okay with the extra length that (I guess) is due to having its own charger built in.
I had hoped that the push button would prevent accidental turn-ons. But... it does not. And if I accidentally turned it on just by inadvertently squeezing it between my arm and body while it was clipped to my harness (several times in one week), then there is NO WAY I would assume that it won't get turned on accidentally while in my dive bag. The risk of melting something, or a fire, has too much downside.
I have a couple of Xtar D26 Whale lights. I know exactly what you mean about their rotating/locking switch. It is the best push button option I have experienced.
Well, other that the UWLD piezo button that includes a snap-on, reversible plastic clip that covers the button when not using the light. THAT is the best that I have used.
The Xtar switch is definitely not perfect. Over time, they get crudded up and become hard to turn that quarter turn necessary to lock them. I suspect the internal spring in there will eventually corrode and break, too.
Regardless, the concept of making a push button light that has NOTHING to stop it from turning on accidentally is, really, a Fail, in my book. (not that I'm getting rid of my CX3!)
A 3D-printed snap-on sleeve/cover would be nice. Clip it on one way and it covers the power button. Flip it around 180 degrees and it exposes the power button, so you can use it as normal. That would be an ideal accessory for the CX3.
