Info New Dive Rite lights - CX3 and ??

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My CX3 ran for an hour and a half (and was still going) on High. I took it out and connected the charger. After right about 2 hours, the led finally went green.

I’ve seen a quirk like that before with connecting a charger to a light that was already more or less fully charged.

I’m glad it appears to be working correctly. I am looking forward to using it next week from my Bahamas liveaboard. 😁
 
I used my CX3 all last week on my Bahamas liveaboard. It is an awesome light.

But, several times while it was clipped off to my right shoulder strap during a dive, it turned on by accident.

Annoying.

Does anybody know a way to "lock" it so it won't turn on by accident? I could not figure out any way to get it to lock "off".

I'm a little concerned about it being on during a dive and I don't know it.

I'm a lot concerned about putting it in my dive bag and having it get turned on by accident in there and melting something or starting a fire.

This is exactly why I have avoided push button lights for years. I thought I had verified that it had a way to lock it, but now I'm wondering if I screwed up and confused myself because I was researching and buying the FX40 at the same time.

Hopefully, I am just being a dolt and there is some reliable way to lock it.
 
I used my CX3 all last week on my Bahamas liveaboard. It is an awesome light.

But, several times while it was clipped off to my right shoulder strap during a dive, it turned on by accident.

Annoying.

Does anybody know a way to "lock" it so it won't turn on by accident? I could not figure out any way to get it to lock "off".

I'm a little concerned about it being on during a dive and I don't know it.

I'm a lot concerned about putting it in my dive bag and having it get turned on by accident in there and melting something or starting a fire.

This is exactly why I have avoided push button lights for years. I thought I had verified that it had a way to lock it, but now I'm wondering if I screwed up and confused myself because I was researching and buying the FX40 at the same time.

Hopefully, I am just being a dolt and there is some reliable way to lock it.
You must flail about a lot to keep turning on these lights ;)
 
I used my CX3 all last week on my Bahamas liveaboard. It is an awesome light.

But, several times while it was clipped off to my right shoulder strap during a dive, it turned on by accident.

Annoying.

Does anybody know a way to "lock" it so it won't turn on by accident? I could not figure out any way to get it to lock "off".

I'm a little concerned about it being on during a dive and I don't know it.

I'm a lot concerned about putting it in my dive bag and having it get turned on by accident in there and melting something or starting a fire.

This is exactly why I have avoided push button lights for years. I thought I had verified that it had a way to lock it, but now I'm wondering if I screwed up and confused myself because I was researching and buying the FX40 at the same time.

Hopefully, I am just being a dolt and there is some reliable way to lock it.
I'm not aware of a way to lock it "off". I wear mine on a d-ring on my right waist band. I've not had it turn on accidentally, but I've only used it on 10 dives so far. I have the same issue with my Bigblue lights. I'm sure it is only a matter of time before that happens to the CX3. It isn't a concern to me as I'm not doing any penetration dives where the light is truly a lifesaving piece of kit. I always have a backup light on the boat that I can switch to for the next dive if I have one die during a dive.
 
Does anybody know a way to "lock" it so it won't turn on by accident?
I "lock" all my button lights by unscrewing the head by about half a turn. Haven't tried it with a CX3, so make sure the o-ring is far from being exposed.
 
You must flail about a lot to keep turning on these lights ;)

Yep. I really prefer to swim with my hands, too. Fins make it too easy. I'm tryna get a workout in while I'm down there! :D
 
I "lock" all my button lights by unscrewing the head by about half a turn. Haven't tried it with a CX3, so make sure the o-ring is far from being exposed.

That is what I do for my DGX 1000-6. I am hoping that the CX3 has something a bit more elegant.

If not, then I hope it has room for that (to do and not expose an O-ring).
 
There is no lock for the CX3 and that is probably its main downfall. It's dangerously close to the perfect backup light, but not there yet. It also has to cycle through the strobe which is annoying, but fortunately, that function disappears after five seconds of continued use. On a positive note, the magnetic switch is very firm and takes a solid push to activate. I don't envision it activating by itself in a gear bag because of its small size, it being somewhat recessed, and the force it takes to activate, but I strongly dislike this failure point as I'd rather have the manually rotating/locking switch that Xtar uses. I have not seen a better application yet than Xtar's rotating/locking magnetic switch. In sum, this failure point is unacceptable on the CX3, but I still bought two of them, anyway.

The other main problem is the diameter of the light body was intentionally made unnecessarily larger to accommodate Dive Rite's QRM system with only two holes in the body. What Dive Rite should have done was create a flat mount on the bottom of the light body (for the QRM system) rather than making the entire light body much thicker (and heavier) to accommodate the length of the two screws. As a result, the diameter of the light is ridiculously wide for accommodating a 21700 battery. It is as thick (and actually thicker) as lights that house a 26650 battery. This also is unacceptable, as a light should be designed as small as possible for streamlining and less weight rather than more. Notwithstanding those problems, the CX3 is still dangerously close to the perfect backup light for design, lumens, battery longevity, ability to use with the QRM system, and magnetic charging.
 
I looked at the lights in person and I am split on the decision.

FX 40 looked nice, but I couldn't turn it on/off easily. My UWLD light and heat controller use the same switch type but are easier to use. The soft strap that comes with FX 40 is a joke. However, the beam seemed to be tight. I like the light design, too.

CX3 is a winner here. I liked the light and will probably buy it soon. Everything about that light was good - the form factor, the external charge capability, light performance.

My biggest concern is the number of chargers I need to own to support all diving gear. I wish there was one to rule them all.
I've been moving all my devices to 21700 based batteries and USB-C chargers to consolidate this mess. Currently my camera strobes (2 HF-1s and 1 MF-2) and focus light (Orcatorch 710) all run on 21700s and I have a USB-C 65w power brick to charge everything. I still have a few old DGX-600 lights that are 18650 batteries, but at least they fit in the same USB-C 21700 charger.

I agree that the CX-3 looks perfect, and I'll get some of those if the DGX-600s ever die off.
 
There is no lock for the CX3 and that is probably its main downfall. It's dangerously close to the perfect backup light, but not there yet. It also has to cycle through the strobe which is annoying, but fortunately, that function disappears after five seconds of continued use. On a positive note, the magnetic switch is very firm and takes a solid push to activate. I don't envision it activating by itself in a gear bag because of its small size, it being somewhat recessed, and the force it takes to activate, but I strongly dislike this failure point as I'd rather have the manually rotating/locking switch that Xtar uses. I have not seen a better application yet than Xtar's rotating/locking magnetic switch. In sum, this failure point is unacceptable on the CX3, but I still bought two of them, anyway.

The other main problem is the diameter of the light body was intentionally made unnecessarily larger to accommodate Dive Rite's QRM system with only two holes in the body. What Dive Rite should have done was create a flat mount on the bottom of the light body (for the QRM system) rather than making the entire light body much thicker (and heavier) to accommodate the length of the two screws. As a result, the diameter of the light is ridiculously wide for accommodating a 21700 battery. It is as thick (and actually thicker) as lights that house a 26650 battery. This also is unacceptable, as a light should be designed as small as possible for streamlining and weight. Notwithstanding those problems, the CX3 is still dangerously close to the perfect backup light for design, lumens, battery longevity, ability to use with the QRM system, and magnetic charging.

Yep.

Dangerously close. lol! It definitely needs a reliable, MECHANICAL lock.

It didn't occur to me that it was wider than necessary because of the QRM footprint. I agree that that is annoying. However, I don't think the light head is any wider than, for example, my DGX700 lights. The body is not fatter than the light head. So, overall, while thinner and lighter would be nice, I'm totally okay with how thin/fat it is.

I've even grown to be okay with the extra length that (I guess) is due to having its own charger built in.

I had hoped that the push button would prevent accidental turn-ons. But... it does not. And if I accidentally turned it on just by inadvertently squeezing it between my arm and body while it was clipped to my harness (several times in one week), then there is NO WAY I would assume that it won't get turned on accidentally while in my dive bag. The risk of melting something, or a fire, has too much downside.

I have a couple of Xtar D26 Whale lights. I know exactly what you mean about their rotating/locking switch. It is the best push button option I have experienced.

Well, other that the UWLD piezo button that includes a snap-on, reversible plastic clip that covers the button when not using the light. THAT is the best that I have used.

The Xtar switch is definitely not perfect. Over time, they get crudded up and become hard to turn that quarter turn necessary to lock them. I suspect the internal spring in there will eventually corrode and break, too.

Regardless, the concept of making a push button light that has NOTHING to stop it from turning on accidentally is, really, a Fail, in my book. (not that I'm getting rid of my CX3!)

A 3D-printed snap-on sleeve/cover would be nice. Clip it on one way and it covers the power button. Flip it around 180 degrees and it exposes the power button, so you can use it as normal. That would be an ideal accessory for the CX3.
 
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