Are Canister Lights Still in Play?

[halocline]

I've heard some will tether their handheld when diving in locations where dropping it would equate to losing it. Is that the "worst of both worlds?" Dunno, but it won't stay wet longer than you do.

I’ve never done that but I could see it, I guess. The best thing might be a short leash that goes around your wrist rather than a long tether. I’m just spit balling here. For me it’s a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist, because I dive 99% of the time in environments where the floor is right there, and I’m careful to not drop things (except the occasional cookie!)

There is another issue, that of flying with the light. There is a cave diver who posted over on the cave diver’s forum that TSA took his expensive canister light and he never got it back. I was able to fly with my canister light, but it always took a little extra time either explaining to the guys at the carry one screening what that thing was in my bag and why it could not accidentally turn on, or in one case, being told I had to check it, which meant going back, getting my bag brought out, (thankfully it hadn’t gone far) and then trusting that the TSA at the next airport wouldn’t freak out about it.

The handhelds just look like flashlights, the TSA agents don’t give them a 2nd thought. And if you do lose one, it’s $500 instead of $1500 or more.

 

[iliketopetsharks]

I much prefer corded lights for the reasons already stated by others (less weight on the hand, secured by cable, tucking the longhose). Flying usually isn't a problem. Below 100 Wh capacity is always allowed, and up to 160 Wh is possible with permission from the airline.
Just took my Tecline Teclight (75 Wh) to Egypt and back with absolutely 0 problems.

 

[jborg]

I need the canister anyway for heating, might as well attach a light to it when it’s already there. Conversely, when diving wet in warmer, lighter climes I’ll not bring a canister light.

 

[hedonist222]

Been flying with a Nanight Tech 2 Pro that is 96wH for 6 years now with no issues.

I love getting in a full day's of diving without needing to tether myself during surface intervals.

 

[inquis]

The best thing might be a short leash that goes around your wrist rather than a long tether.

Something similar to the final canister cord length allows one to quickly switch hands or place in temporary stowage. The main difference from a real canister light would be the head weight (and burn time / brightness, of course).

 

[mr_v]

Haven't used a canister light in a while. With LX20+, FX40, and similar lights, there is no reason to drag a can even when diving overhead.

I do have a tall can with UWLD 6th generation 40W light, but that light is waiting for 4+ hour dives. The battery gets most usage with the heated vest.

 

[Reefy]

It totally depends on what situation you want to use the light in, and personal preference. There are fantastic cordless options, as others have mentioned, around these days that will cover all of your needs on shorter dives. If you need maximum burn time, a can will still be the choice, but if not, try out both cordless and can options to see which you ultimately prefer. I have, and use, both- but if it weren't for longer deco dives, I wouldn't have much need for the can these days, personally.

 

[stuartv]

Haven't used a canister light in a while. With LX20+, FX40, and similar lights, there is no reason to drag a can even when diving overhead.... IF YOUR DIVES ARE SHORT ENOUGH.

FTFY.


I have 2 UWLD can lights, and a plethora of cordless lights (including a Dive Rite FX40 and a couple of Big Blue VTL lights, which can switch between a wide angle beam and a spot beam, while having battery capacity similar to the FX40).

I would not buy a can light until you NEED a can light. The tech is improving all the time. The longer you wait, the better light you will likely get for your money.

When you get to the point of doing dives long enough to need a can light, then, on those dives, you will also need at least one and probably 2 backup lights.

Buy those backup lights now. They will serve you well as a primary and backup until you get to where you need the can light.

All my cordless "backup" lights are of the type that contain a single 21700 battery.

My Dive Rite CX3 will go up to 1900 lumens. My DGX1000-6 will go up to 2000 lumens. Both, with a single 21700.

I like the cordless lights with a single 21700 because they are easily bright enough for just about anything, and they CAN easily burn long enough for just about anything. And they are small enough to be a good size to have clipped off to a shoulder strap.

My internal jury is still out on lights like the FX40 and the BigBlue VTL lights. They use multi-cell packs, which make them fat. For ME, they are too fat to clip to me or put in a pocket and lug along as a backup light. I would only use one of them as a primary, on a dive where I plan to have the light turned on and on my hand for the whole dive. And I don't do that many dives like that.

My latest BigBlue is a VTL13500P Max. It can switch between a 2900 lumen (claimed) spot beam and a 13500 lumen (claimed) wide beam. I took the older version (VTL9000P Max - also 2900lm spot, and 9000lm wide) to Truk Lagoon last year and actually used it quite a bit. It was good for having a spot beam when inside a wreck but then switching it to a wide beam when I found something I wanted to shoot a clip of with my GoPro. It had plenty of burntime for that kind of thing.

Cave dives and deep dives in cold water (e.g. the Great Lakes) are the only places where I take a can light. Cave dives can be long enough to need the burn time. Great Lakes dives usually include using the can light for light and also for power to my heated undies.

So, all of that is a long way of saying, if you don't already, make sure you have 2 good cordless lights that you can use eventually as backups in caves. Then, when you actually have plans to do dives that are longer than what those lights are good for, I would just buy a can light. You *could* buy something like an FX40. But, then you will still have real potential to need something with longer burntime later. Especially if you advance to doing CCR cave dives. So, once you're at that point, may as well get the can light and be done buying lights.

For cordless lights, if I had to pare myself down to only 2, I would keep my CX3 as my primary cordless, and a DGX700 as my backup. Those two plus a good can light and I can't think of any dive I might do where I would NEED anything else (aside from possibly needing video lights).

Oh, and last thing, I don't like soft Goodman handles. I use hard handles on any light where I use a handle at all. Since that includes cordless lights, I think it's a good idea to put a piece of bungee on a hard handle that you *can* loop around your wrist to help keep the hard handle from accidentally falling off your hand. If I were doing a dive where there was a chance of moving the light around over an abyss, then I *might* take my can light just to ensure I couldn't drop it and lose it. But, that kind of dive would be uncommon for me.