Trip Report Alami Alor from Oct 19 to Oct 29 Moko Alor Divers Oct 29 to Nov 3 2024

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Darnold9999

Contributor
Messages
2,873
Reaction score
1,201
Location
Victoria BC Canada
# of dives
500 - 999
Getting there was difficult and time consuming.

Victoria – Vancouver – Narita – Jakarta – Surabya – Kupang – overnight in Kupang at La Hacienda then on to Alor. Almost 60 hours door to door.

Alami was excellent. Diving was great and Niko my guide was superb. Food and accommodation top notch, with food served “family style” at a single table in the common area.

Three dives a day, two in the straight, one in the bay in the muck. Dove the first three days with a semi private boat, myself my guide Niko and a pair of snorkelers. One part of the other couple who were to dive with us managed to get covid somewhere and tested positive on the first day. Thanks to Cindy and Steve for doing the right thing and isolating right away. Nobody else at the resort caught it.

I arrived a day after full moon, and it was a “super moon”. The tides and currents were ridiculous, and the resorts current predictions based on regular full moons and tides were a bit off. The tides were super high and super low for the first few days and the rip tides in the straight were absolutely crazy. We were searching for Mola and the boat driver put us in a small whirlpool (intentionally) that was spinning the boat a full 360 every 3 or 4 seconds. Fun, but when we found a Mola Mola we couldn’t jump in, it was just too dangerous. I have been in exactly the same spot last year in the upwelling from the tide changes and we jumped in chasing a Mola Mola with no issues (except it was damn cold).

I now know what it would feel like to dive in a washing machine! On the Great Wall we jumped in drifted down the wall and halfway through the dive the current went crazy. Blasts of cold, upwellings, downdrafts, sideways current going one direction and a few seconds later the other. I took exactly one picture that dive. I couldn’t hold the camera steady enough to focus on anything. We surfaced to see the current ripping by the wall about 20 or 30 feet out. At no time did I feel in danger, but it was “interesting”. The next day the other boat did the same dive with exactly the same results, they were not impressed and bailed on the dive.

On the first day the other boat was at a site where the upwelling was so cold it was stunning the fish and the locals were gathering them up by hand. Something that while not common is an occasional happening in Alor in some extreme tidal exchanges.

Outside of the one “washing machine” dive the diving in the straight was excellent with a variety of soft and hard coral and abundant fish life. The muck diving did not disappoint either. Lots of critters, a pair of enormous harlequin shrimp guarding a starfish arm, tiger shrimp, boxer crab, the usual frog fish, scorpionfish, octopus, cuttlefish etc. etc. Fewer nudibranchs this year. Lots of eggs, but not the variety I have seen in past years. The highlight was a set of Weedy Rhinopia sightings, a translucent white juvenile about an inch and a half long, a pair of younger fish one cinnamon following a light brown one and an adult yellow one out in a drunken walk across the bottom.



Moka Alor Divers is a new resort this year. Currently they have two bungalows with three more under construction. The bungalow is a significant upgrade from Alami (which is pretty nice). Two bedrooms and a sitting room. One bedroom upstairs with an outside deck and another bedroom off the main sitting room. There is a deck with a small pool in front of each bungalow. Separate AC for each room and a fridge in the main sitting room. Boats are nice, a beach entry as opposed to a dock at Alami, but the boat is designed for it so a couple of steps in the water to shore on sand. Sam the dive guide is excellent. Initially I thought the food was going to be this resorts downfall. First meal, I ordered chicken teriyaki, I got tuna, calamari, a chicken wing and rice all cold. First breakfast I ordered oatmeal, got a bowl of dried oatmeal and a box of milk. An hour later the chef showed up profusely apologising with real oatmeal, fruit and a pastry – all very good. Meals thereafter ranged from OK to excellent. Meals can be at the restaurant attached to the resort or in your room. Not family style, meals are individually served which means there is almost no interaction between guests.

As I was the only diver at the resort I decided where I wanted to dive. I could dive muck or reef morning or afternoon. Three dives a day.

I would stay at either resort again in a heartbeat. Choose family style meals with conversation at Alami or a more upscale bungalow with individual meals in your room or a seated restaurant. Share four people in a bungalow, queen bed upstairs twin beds on the main floor at Moko or a single room with bed(s) at Alami.

I was in Alor at Alor Divers last year. For comparison, they do two dives a day all in the straight with one day a week in the Bay doing muck dives. You could do a third dive on their house reef (which is a very nice dive). Meals are similar to Alami, but buffet style at a long table. Bungalows are also similar, but a little more primitive (still very nice). Most of my diving at Alor divers was “near” the guides as most of the diving was out in the straight.
 

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Thank you so much for sharing - sounds like crazy currents. We had nothing even close to that, so there must be a real big difference between super moon and normal full moon.

Great with the comparison between the resorts. We stayed at Alor Eco and absolutely loved it, but if we ever return I'll have a look at the others as well - makes sense to stay in the area, once you've made the trek there.
 
We had nothing even close to that, so there must be a real big difference between super moon and normal full moon.
I was also there at Alor Divers during the august supermoon : nothing like the experience OP described, although very low and very high tides, we wisely skipped some sites while another dive boat chose to dive them (and eventually went up earlier than they'd probably expect).
On the other hand we always dived on sites where the current was manageable, we had the mildest Yellow Corner dive I had ever experienced : we were even able to swim upstream through thousands of snappers.

I think its probably due to the op dive style.
Personally I wouldn't like diving in a whirlpool carrying a massive camera rig, did it once in Nusa Penida, never again.

I bumped across 3 out of the 4 rhinopias OP mentioned, the juve is a nice find!
Spotted as well all the shrimps mentioned. No more coleman shrimps and zebra crabs, at least 5 fire urchins inhabited in a few sq.meters in august (just in front of the beach with a small concrete wall)? Dearth of nudibranchs as reported.
 
Note that the first half of the washing machine dive was perfectly normal. The current was a surprise to everyone. The op expected a benign dive based on previous experience on the site at that phase of the moon. The currents and tidal rips were extraordinary. I live and boat in an area that has serious tidal currents and rip tides so not the voice of the inexperienced😀
 
Getting there was difficult and time consuming.

Victoria – Vancouver – Narita – Jakarta – Surabya – Kupang – overnight in Kupang at La Hacienda then on to Alor. Almost 60 hours door to door.

Alami was excellent. Diving was great and Niko my guide was superb. Food and accommodation top notch, with food served “family style” at a single table in the common area.

Three dives a day, two in the straight, one in the bay in the muck. Dove the first three days with a semi private boat, myself my guide Niko and a pair of snorkelers. One part of the other couple who were to dive with us managed to get covid somewhere and tested positive on the first day. Thanks to Cindy and Steve for doing the right thing and isolating right away. Nobody else at the resort caught it.

I arrived a day after full moon, and it was a “super moon”. The tides and currents were ridiculous, and the resorts current predictions based on regular full moons and tides were a bit off. The tides were super high and super low for the first few days and the rip tides in the straight were absolutely crazy. We were searching for Mola and the boat driver put us in a small whirlpool (intentionally) that was spinning the boat a full 360 every 3 or 4 seconds. Fun, but when we found a Mola Mola we couldn’t jump in, it was just too dangerous. I have been in exactly the same spot last year in the upwelling from the tide changes and we jumped in chasing a Mola Mola with no issues (except it was damn cold).

I now know what it would feel like to dive in a washing machine! On the Great Wall we jumped in drifted down the wall and halfway through the dive the current went crazy. Blasts of cold, upwellings, downdrafts, sideways current going one direction and a few seconds later the other. I took exactly one picture that dive. I couldn’t hold the camera steady enough to focus on anything. We surfaced to see the current ripping by the wall about 20 or 30 feet out. At no time did I feel in danger, but it was “interesting”. The next day the other boat did the same dive with exactly the same results, they were not impressed and bailed on the dive.

On the first day the other boat was at a site where the upwelling was so cold it was stunning the fish and the locals were gathering them up by hand. Something that while not common is an occasional happening in Alor in some extreme tidal exchanges.

Outside of the one “washing machine” dive the diving in the straight was excellent with a variety of soft and hard coral and abundant fish life. The muck diving did not disappoint either. Lots of critters, a pair of enormous harlequin shrimp guarding a starfish arm, tiger shrimp, boxer crab, the usual frog fish, scorpionfish, octopus, cuttlefish etc. etc. Fewer nudibranchs this year. Lots of eggs, but not the variety I have seen in past years. The highlight was a set of Weedy Rhinopia sightings, a translucent white juvenile about an inch and a half long, a pair of younger fish one cinnamon following a light brown one and an adult yellow one out in a drunken walk across the bottom.



Moka Alor Divers is a new resort this year. Currently they have two bungalows with three more under construction. The bungalow is a significant upgrade from Alami (which is pretty nice). Two bedrooms and a sitting room. One bedroom upstairs with an outside deck and another bedroom off the main sitting room. There is a deck with a small pool in front of each bungalow. Separate AC for each room and a fridge in the main sitting room. Boats are nice, a beach entry as opposed to a dock at Alami, but the boat is designed for it so a couple of steps in the water to shore on sand. Sam the dive guide is excellent. Initially I thought the food was going to be this resorts downfall. First meal, I ordered chicken teriyaki, I got tuna, calamari, a chicken wing and rice all cold. First breakfast I ordered oatmeal, got a bowl of dried oatmeal and a box of milk. An hour later the chef showed up profusely apologising with real oatmeal, fruit and a pastry – all very good. Meals thereafter ranged from OK to excellent. Meals can be at the restaurant attached to the resort or in your room. Not family style, meals are individually served which means there is almost no interaction between guests.

As I was the only diver at the resort I decided where I wanted to dive. I could dive muck or reef morning or afternoon. Three dives a day.

I would stay at either resort again in a heartbeat. Choose family style meals with conversation at Alami or a more upscale bungalow with individual meals in your room or a seated restaurant. Share four people in a bungalow, queen bed upstairs twin beds on the main floor at Moko or a single room with bed(s) at Alami.

I was in Alor at Alor Divers last year. For comparison, they do two dives a day all in the straight with one day a week in the Bay doing muck dives. You could do a third dive on their house reef (which is a very nice dive). Meals are similar to Alami, but buffet style at a long table. Bungalows are also similar, but a little more primitive (still very nice). Most of my diving at Alor divers was “near” the guides as most of the diving was out in the straight.
Thanks for your excellent and detailed overview. What does the future look like for Alor, do you think ?
 
Thanks for your excellent and detailed overview. What does the future look like for Alor, do you think ?
Likely more and more tourism. I have been there three times in the past five years and the number of available resorts has expanded with more on the way. The only saving grace is that it is hard to get to. You have to overnight in Kupang on the way there unless you leave from Jakarta in the wee hours of the morning. If you are diving elsewhere in Indo it is at least two days travel to get to Alor. One day to get to Jakarta and then a very early flight to Kupang and then on to Alor or a flight to Kupang an overnight stay and on to Alor in the morning. This deters a lot of people. There is also not much else to do on the island. You can dive or snorkle, take a couple of village tours but that is it.
 

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