Zeagle Flathead VI/ZX Adjustments

[Brandon]

Hi there,

I purchased a Zeagle Flathead VI/ZX last month, and have had it in the pool twice since then.

I'm not particularly familiar with adjustable second stages... as all the regs I've used prior to this point have been of the non-adjustable variety.

Am I correct in thinking that to prevent freeflow... I dial in the adjustment screws all the way, and leave the backup reg in the pre-dive position? Then at depth adjust the venturi as necessary to make breating more comfortable?

When the adjustment knob is turned all the way out, it's easy to get the regs to freeflow, but it stops as soon as the knob is turned back down, or the predive/dive lever is flipped.

Thanks a bunch,

-B.

 

[rescuediver009]

The diver adjustment is designed to allow you to be able to adjust the breathing resistance of your reg. Unfortunately it is difficult to notice in the pool. As for the venturi knob, it is designed to deflect the air directly into your mouth. So when you turn it to the (-) position, you are eliminating the chance of freeflow. So yes ideally you want to have your octo to the (-) and your primary there as well unless it is in your mouth, then switch to (+). Make sense?

 

[Brandon]

Oh cool, I think I confused a couple parts =) Adjustment = knob, venturi = lever.

With the breathing resistance set very low (knob all the way out) at the surface, will the reg still freeflow when it is in the water? Mine was... I think I read somewhere else this was normal.

I was screwing around with the adjustments in the pool, and ended up doing an unintentional jacuzzi impression a couple of different times. Really funny when it starts happening as soon as you break the surface on ascent.

-B

 

[Chad Carney]

When air escapes from a regulator it usually does it in one of two ways: a slight hissing or a massive rush.
The two adjustments on Zeagle second stages are capable of controlling both conditions, as long as the seals in both stages are fresh and working properly.

Tightening the breathing adjustment increases spring pressure to the seal and orifice, which will stop the slight hissing. Generally, you don't want to do this unless you need to stop a leak. When it happens often, after screwing in the adjustment several times, it means you need service.

The (+/-) adjustment controls the air flow path. When in (+) it is directed to the mouthpiece, which makes the regulator breath at it's best, or when removed from your mouth it can cause the massive rush of air. Venturi is the name for the syphoning of air that causes really good breathing or the uncontrolled blast. When in (-) the air flow path is directed at the diaphragm and resists the valve opening. The (+/-) control can be set anywhere between (+) and (-), but generally it's used as a dive/predive control.

The term "freeflow" is often confused when explaining how a regulator is functioning.
Rescuediver009 is correct in stating that it's a condition of uncontrolled venturi. In the days before adjustable regulators, a freeflow could usually only occur when the mouthpiece was left facing up in the water. There may be some debate on this definition, but it's generally true.

Thanks for going with Zeagle! The Flathead is a fine regulator.

Chad

 

[rescuediver009]

With the breathing resistance set very low (knob all the way out) at the surface, will the reg still freeflow when it is in the water? Mine was... I think I read somewhere else this was normal.
-B

Yes, because of the nature of this high performance reg, it will freeflow in the water. It happens all the time with me and my apeks. All you have to do to stop it is turn the venturi to the (-) position.

 

[RonFrank]

Hi there,

I purchased a Zeagle Flathead VI/ZX last month, and have had it in the pool twice since then.

I'm not particularly familiar with adjustable second stages... as all the regs I've used prior to this point have been of the non-adjustable variety.

Am I correct in thinking that to prevent freeflow... I dial in the adjustment screws all the way, and leave the backup reg in the pre-dive position? Then at depth adjust the venturi as necessary to make breating more comfortable?

When the adjustment knob is turned all the way out, it's easy to get the regs to freeflow, but it stops as soon as the knob is turned back down, or the predive/dive lever is flipped.

Thanks a bunch,

-B.

my venturi setting in the *dive* + position, and I screw down the breathing adjustment a bit to prevent freeflow.

I find that with it wide open even with the venturi setting on "-" it will freeflow at the top.

 

[StSomewhere]

Here's what seems to work with my Apeks. At the surface, set the venturi lever to (-), then adjust the breathing adjustment out to *just* *before* freeflow (it may take a couple of tries to find this point at first), then set the venturi lever back to (+) when you have the reg in your mouth and are ready to descend.

 

[Chad Carney]

These cutaways are a little old but still accurate.

In first one, the blue venturi control tube can be seen in the (+) position. If rolled to (-) it would rotate over the opening above the spring and deflect the air path towards the diaphragm in front.

Unfortunately you can't see the orifice and seal but it's easy to understand that screwing the resistance adjustment down would increase the spring pressure, essentially creating a tighter seal.

Chad

 

[marcella1188]

These cutaways are a little old but still accurate.

In first one, the blue venturi control tube can be seen in the (+) position. If rolled to (-) it would rotate over the opening above the spring and deflect the air path towards the diaphragm in front.

Unfortunately you can't see the orifice and seal but it's easy to understand that screwing the resistance adjustment down would increase the spring pressure, essentially creating a tighter seal.

Chad

Thanks for your excellent explanation on the adjustments. I just purchased an Apeks, didn't receive good instructions on operating the adjustments, so this was very helpful.

I know this started on the Zeagle VI/XP but wondered at your thoughts of comparison of this to the Apeks. Which Apeks model does this come closest to? I found a good deal on an ATX 50 for my daughter, would prefer the 100 or 200, but since she is in college, tuition comes first. However I want a good reg that will last her a long time.

 

[Chad Carney]

I know longer pay close attention to the Apeks models, but the controls on their older second stages worked exactly the same way as the Zeagle models.

Our Envoy Deluxe is an unbelievable regulator for only $369 MSRP. Exact same second stage as our Flathead XP, except for the purge color. It's first stage is smaller than a FH, but pulled 20 out of 20, perfect breathing scores and a received a Testers choice on the Scuba Diving Magazine test. No other regulator that could do that was even near it's price range!

(It's little brother the Envoy did at $319 MSRP, but I still prefer regulators like the Envoy Deluxe with both controls, the Envoy only has one.)

Good luck in your search!

Chad