Yezl Q3 Review

[MRTdiver]

So I bought this dive light with excitement and anticipation because by it's specs looked positive - XM-L emitter, decent size head for throw, optional 1 or 2 x 18650s, cost (~$62), etc. Yezl site

It took 22 days to ship from China. When I received the light in the mail there was nothing attractive about its packaging, just the flashlight sitting in a brown box.
I put in the batteries and tried to use it and it wasn't working. It seemed DOA :depressed: So I cleaned off some connection points and it starting working.

Later on it seemed to not want to work in single Li-ion configuration (18650), so I just put the extension tube on. The problem might have something to do with the forward voltage to the emitter and the type of driver their using. Anyways I found the light to be considerably brighter in 2 cell set up.

Waterproofness: The double o-ring design looks like it should do the job as long as I care for it with periodic silicon lube.




The pic settings: 1/13 sec., F 2.8, ISO 50. Beam shot distance is 15 feet
My dive lights pic from left to right...
the Yezl Q3 with extension tube, Novae MC-E (2 x 18650s), Light for Me mini Tec XM-L (one 18650), and Mb-Sub X1-VB.
As you can see the Yezl is similar in size to the ugly light (Novae/Magicshine)

The beam comparisions are in this order (though stated in the pics):
(1) Yezl Q3 on High (2) Yezl Q3 on Low (3) Novae MC-E on High (4) Light For Me mini Tec XM-L (1-mode)

Conclusions: So I was disappointed that the light would not work properly with a single battery. Still working that situation (it's the first day I got it). But it works with 2 batteries and is significantly brighter. I'm confident it's one of the brightest dive lights out there for its size. It's driven at 2600 mA on high (though I haven't confirmed this is my multi meter yet) and from my other flashlights I own it does really well. BTW I don't use my dive lights long on the surface.

 

[MRTdiver]

After talking to a prominent flashlight modder on CPF, he said that it is difficult for many drivers to run properly on both single and double 18650 Li-ion batteries. And after explaining to him the symptoms his guess was that it was a Driver issue. So far there has been no issues with it running on double 18650s.

Regarding the UI (user interface): You'll notice by the Pic that there are 4 brightness levels when you click to the Left and 4 strobe variations when you click to the right. One click to the left starts on High, two clicks left - the next level down, three clicks is lesser light, and of course 4 clicks is the lowest level. It always defaults to high.
I didn't think I would like this UI because I prefer single mode dive lights (except for a canister), but after using it, it is OK so long as the magnetic switch stands the test of time.

I should also say that because this is an inexpensive ~$50 light you might want to confirm that all the o-rings have the proper silicon grease and it's all screwed in tight, so it's good to go for diving. As one should do with all their dive lights. My only dive light to ever flood was an expensive German one.

 

[350xfire]

Cool light for $50

 

[Mantra]

I'm interested in what site you shop for Chinese stuff. I've long been thinking about making a how-to-buy-scuba-stuff on taobao post here.

If you go to taobao.com and type in 潜水电筒 (which means dive torch), there are hundreds of ultra cheap dive lights there. Here is a 3000 lumen canister light for about $303, for example:

ARCHON

I've seen a lot of Yezl stuff there, and have been tossing up buying one of their lights - but haven't read much in the way of reviews, so this is appreciated. Are you overall happy with it? I was looking at this one - 860 lumens with 4 brightness levels and 3 emergency strobe settings, using a cree CREE XML-T6 LED, rated to 100m depth, and comes in at about $30 (courier postage with EMS would add another $8 or so). It is a Q2 - identical in specs (I think) to your Q3, except that the Q2 is a bit smaller and has one and a half to twice as long burn time as the Q3 and only needs 1 battery:

Ò°Õ½Á¬Q2 רҵǿ¹âDZˮÊÖµçͲ ÃÀ¹úXML-T6 860Á÷Ã÷ ÉDZˮ100Ã×-ÌÔ±¦Íø

Taobao is what chinese shoppers use. Look at it in Chrome as a browser for automatic translation. To buy from there you use an agent like yoybuy.com. I buy everything from bed linen to the latest 2012 armani business shirts ($10 and great quality) to CREE halogen chip lights for our lighting at home etc etc etc there. Lots and lots of SCUBA stuff there. If it is made in China, you can buy it at local prices there.

Anyway, thanks for the review. Would you recommend pulling the trigger on some Q2s as back up lights? I feel for $30 I can't go too wrong.

 

[MRTdiver]

I'm interested in what site you shop for Chinese stuff.

I bought my Yezl Q3 from AliExpress. The cheapest I found it there is for ($52.25).

Would you recommend pulling the trigger on some Q2s as back up lights? I feel for $30 I can't go too wrong.

I pulled the trigger on a Keygos dive light which looks identical to the Yezl Q2, but only $37.50 shipped @ eBay. I really wanted the smaller single battery format. Those fit nice on my shoulder straps with a bolt snap tied on the end (see how to tie).

Between the original Yezl site and the Chinese one you showed me there is a discrepancy regarding the amperage that the Q2 (single 18650) runs on on High (1000 mA vs. 2600 mA). If it runs on 2600 mA this will probably be the brightest dive light you own. However running on 1000 mA would be about 400 lumens at the emitter (estimate 260 OTF), but give you a considerably longer burn time. Yezl says 3 hours on High.

When I get another DMM (digital multi-meter) I'll do some tail cap current tests.

Look at it in Chrome as a browser for automatic translation.

Yeah thanks, I didn't know about this.

I haven't dove with the light yet, hopefully this weekend I will. I need to touch up the front bezel o-ring with silicon, because I read somewhere that someone's Keygos flooded there, so it concerns me. And I take good care on my dive gear and it takes care of me in the cave or where ever.

I've learned that you just can't buy the cheap Chinese lights and dive with them. It would behoove us to make sure things are properly greased and screwed down snug.

 

[Mantra]

Thanks, mate. You know much more about lights than I do, so I appreciate it. I might ask my agent to confirm the amperage with a couple of sellers.

Those eBay ones sound good. I often don't have the patience to go through the hoops needed to buy directly from china rather than via an intermediary, so if there is something comparable then eBay or my local dive shop is my preference. Thanks! I will let you know the correct specs when I learn them.

 

[MRTdiver]

They sell the Keygos S3 on AU eBay too.

I asked all the Keygos S3 sellers on the American eBay what the tail cap current measured and no one could tell me. I also sent the link so anyone with a DMM could measure it (see How).

 

[MRTdiver]

Went on a couple 85 foot dives. The light worked great during the dives, never a hiccup. It appeared to have a violet tint underwater. Switched it ON/Off several times and through all the modes. Put it in the sand, and later noticed the magnetic control interface (twisty ring) felt a little gritty on the surface.

Discoloration around the Aluminum Reflector edge. Also mist inside the lens
With reflector removed it appears the inside anodization chipped away. Probably the beginning of pitting.

At home I noticed those marks on the reflector and some mist on the inside lens (see 1st pic). It looks like something creeping in - I don't know what it is. I think the reflector is discolored there because it was making electrical contact with LED circuitry at its base and where the salt water creep in??
I preceded to disassembled the light. That's when I noticed it leaked a little water around the front bezel. I read somewhere that this is a problem with the Keygos lights (similar design). So I greased up the whole area, o-ring and threads, and tightened it up even tighter than before.

Cautionary Suggestions: This light might not be a good choice for the average diver. It may need someone inclined to take the extra precautionary steps to ensure the light is sealed. At the moment I still don't know if I resolved the front bezel seal, will have to dive it often and much deeper.

Other observations:
Form: There are no sharp edges and the outer bezel is round and smooth so the shoulder strap Snoopy loops (little rubber loops) just slip on and off.
There are three possible areas for water intrusion - rear tail cap (where batteries go), extender tube attachment, and front bezel. For a dive light usually one spot is optimal.
Operation: The Magnetic Control ring protrudes from the light body and seemed easy to switch settings during the dive. I find the 8 modes pretty useless. Would prefer to do away with the strobe modes (all 4 of them) and have only 2 or 3 brightness levels.

Size: At 235mm (9.25 inches) total length it's about the limit of what I would want a backup light to be, actually I prefer shorter, but this will have long run times.

Burn time: Manufacture claim: 2 hr. on High (@2600mAh)

Put the light in a pool to test. Still running after 2hrs. Flickers when held in hand and output significantly less bright. Lasted for 5 hrs, although it flickered considerably when moved as the test progressed. Tested with 2 x 18650 3000mAh Ultrafire.