OP
Ford Transit Connect?
Bomber of a dive vehicle. The series of smaller brother vans from Ford, Dodge, Nissan and MB are totally hip.
Yet Another Cylinder Rack
- Thread starter NothingClever
- Start date
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Bomber of a dive vehicle. The series of smaller brother vans from Ford, Dodge, Nissan and MB are totally hip.
I was just about to ask the same question. Specifically, what did you use for the template (e.g. dimensions of the cut)?
Everyone is most critical of their own work, from my perspective it looks really good! Awesome project, thanks for sharing!
Ulfhedinn
-Skill Collector-
yep I'm thinking of getting one for diving, beach trips, kayaking, etc
OP
OP
Right on!
I’m partial to the Connect. If it weren’t for my motorcycle habit (requiring more space than the Connect affords), I would’ve picked up the Connect. The cargo version is a perfect blank slate to build a support rig with gas mileage for the win.
OP
Got all the insulation pieces cut (reminded me of an elementary school arts and crafts project) but realized I had to clean the van’s floor surface before gluing.
Hmmm…how to get all the pieces back in the right spots?
I numbered the corrugated valleys and then numbered the pieces so if they got mixed up on the garage floor I could easily re-arrange them after cleaning the van floor.
3M 90 contact adhesive is great. Let both bonding surfaces set up for about 30 seconds and then place carefully. Insulation is part of the van now. I rolled a full SCUBA cylinder all over the floor to compress the insulation a bit.
I set the three plywood sub-floor pieces back in place exactly where I wanted them and then put a kettle bell on the center piece as the index.
Putting 3m VHB mounting tape on the corrugated peaks.
As can be expected, some spots “cracked” when picking up the foot. Those are spots where the wood separates from the VHB tape. I used a dead battery, some kettlebells, a SCUBA cylinder and my loading ramp crate to ensure the best possible bond.
Hmmm…how to get all the pieces back in the right spots?
I numbered the corrugated valleys and then numbered the pieces so if they got mixed up on the garage floor I could easily re-arrange them after cleaning the van floor.
3M 90 contact adhesive is great. Let both bonding surfaces set up for about 30 seconds and then place carefully. Insulation is part of the van now. I rolled a full SCUBA cylinder all over the floor to compress the insulation a bit.
I set the three plywood sub-floor pieces back in place exactly where I wanted them and then put a kettle bell on the center piece as the index.
Putting 3m VHB mounting tape on the corrugated peaks.
As can be expected, some spots “cracked” when picking up the foot. Those are spots where the wood separates from the VHB tape. I used a dead battery, some kettlebells, a SCUBA cylinder and my loading ramp crate to ensure the best possible bond.
OP
Next up will be:
1) fitting the vinyl floor
2) drilling through the plywood sub-floor and the van’s steel floor to bolt in the Pit Bull trailer restraint system
3) Installing a trailer hitch
4) Purchasing a cargo hitch carrier for the fuel cans
5) Insulating the ceiling with the same insulation but thicker. Going to use the 3M 90 contact adhesive there, too.
6) Pulling out the black CORPLAST walls and insulating the van walls. Same materials as the ceiling.
7) Installing 1/4” plywood ceiling and walls
8) Installing L track along the walls and ceiling for cargo management
1) fitting the vinyl floor
2) drilling through the plywood sub-floor and the van’s steel floor to bolt in the Pit Bull trailer restraint system
3) Installing a trailer hitch
4) Purchasing a cargo hitch carrier for the fuel cans
5) Insulating the ceiling with the same insulation but thicker. Going to use the 3M 90 contact adhesive there, too.
6) Pulling out the black CORPLAST walls and insulating the van walls. Same materials as the ceiling.
7) Installing 1/4” plywood ceiling and walls
8) Installing L track along the walls and ceiling for cargo management
Due to manufacturing variations on cylinders and bands, I suggest making a router template that creates wide 2-point "bumps" for one cylinder at the 4, and 8 o'clock positions. The second cylinder for a doubles rack just needs one "bump" at the 6 o'clock position.
I prefer using a router bit with a top bearing rather than using a router bushing because the template does not need to be offset and setup is easier.
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